雙語：Gucci又惹出大麻煩 新毛衣涉嫌種族歧視

MILAN — Luxury fashion is all about breaking codes, creating a new, irresistible message that captivates consumers.

米蘭-奢侈品時尚就是打破常規(guī)，不斷創(chuàng)造新的、令顧客趨之若鶩的理念。

But some of the globe’s top brands have raised eyebrows with designs that have seemingly racist undertones.

但是最近好幾個世界頂級大牌卻因設(shè)計出涉嫌種族歧視的產(chǎn)品而引起眾怒。

The latest instance of that was Italian fashion designer Gucci, which produced a black wool balaclava sweater with an oversized collar that pulls over the chin and nose.

最近的一個例子就是意大利時尚設(shè)計師Gucci，設(shè)計了一款黑色羊毛巴拉克拉瓦毛衣，毛衣有一個覆蓋住下巴和鼻子的大尺碼的領(lǐng)子。

It includes a slit where the mouth is, ringed with what look like giant red lips. Its similarity to blackface prompted an instant backlash from the public and forced the company to apologize publicly.

毛衣領(lǐng)子在嘴巴的位置上有一個開口，穿上后看起來像一個巨大的紅唇。它與黑人面孔的相似迅速引起了公眾的抵制，迫使這家公司不得不公開道歉。

Gucci also withdrew the offending garment from sale on websites and stores. It said the incident would be “a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond.”

Gucci在線上線下都撤回了這款衣服。此次事件會是 “給Gucci團隊乃至其他人的一個有力的教訓”。

But the question persists: How can fashion houses that thrive on detail miss such critical social cues?

但是我們依舊不解：死扣細節(jié)的時尚品牌怎么會在這么嚴肅的大問題上失誤。

“Luxury brands used to be able to get away with provocative and eccentric ads that push the boundaries of our society and culture in the name of being creative and cutting edge,” said Qing Wang, a professor of marketing at Warwick Business School.

“奢侈品牌過去經(jīng)常能以創(chuàng)造力和創(chuàng)新為由，越過社會和文化的界限，做出的廣告挑釁囂張且離經(jīng)叛道卻無人問責，”華威商學院市場營銷專業(yè)的教授Qing Wang說到。

“However, a long list of recent incidents have caused public outrage, suggesting that era is now gone or that luxury brands have lost touch with public sentiment. What used to be considered “creativity” has now turned into “bad taste” or even “racist,” he said.

他還提到，“不過，最近發(fā)生的一系列的種族歧視事件已經(jīng)引起了眾怒”，這意味著那樣的時代已經(jīng)過去了，又或者是奢侈品牌已經(jīng)不再享有大眾的溫情。過去大家眼中的“創(chuàng)造力”現(xiàn)在變成了“糟糕的品味”甚至是“種族歧視”。

He cited other fashion fails that evoked stereotypes, including Dolce & Gabbana’s “slave sandal” in its spring/summer 2016 collection and a recent Burberry campaign for the Chinese New Year that was compared to Asian horror films.

他還援引了其他的改變固有印象的時尚界的失敗案例，包括Dolce & Gabbana16年春夏新品中的“奴隸涼鞋”和最近Burberry新出的被判為辱亞視頻的一個中國新年特輯。

While many of these incidents have caused immediate social media backlashes, the longer-term impact will take time to measure, and will depend on the brands’ reaction and future sensitivity.

雖然這些視頻短期內(nèi)都迅速受到了社會公眾的抵制，但它們的長期影響還需要觀察，也取決于這些品牌如何應對和對未來風向的敏銳度。