國家地理:沒有垃圾的世界可能存在嗎(8)

Clothes

服裝

The emblem of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a set of nested circles, was on Dame Ellen's teal hoodie when we met in her headquarters, an old sailmaker's loft on the Isle of Wight. In 2005, at age 28, MacArthur finished sailing around the world on a 75-foot trimaran in a record time of just over 71 days—alone. She had packed 72 days' worth of food. She had raced storms off Antarctica and fixed a broken generator. She arrived home, having survived a microcosm of Spaceship Earth, with a visceral awareness of limited resources.

我來到懷特島上一幢船帆廠老房子里的艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會總部，與擁有英國勛爵頭銜的艾倫會面時，她的藍綠色連帽衫上就帶有該基金會的標(biāo)識--幾個嵌套的圓環(huán)。2005年，28歲的麥克阿瑟完成了獨自駕駛23米長的雙體船進行的環(huán)球航行，用時71天多一點，刷新了當(dāng)時的記錄。船上只裝了夠吃72天的食品。航程中，她曾在南極洲的近海與風(fēng)暴競速，修好過損壞的發(fā)電機。經(jīng)歷過那次微型的環(huán)游地球之旅，她帶著對資源有限性的切身體會回到家中。

Why wasn't everyone talking about that? she wondered. She gave up competitive sailing and instead traded on her fame and access to corporate boardrooms -- "it would be a waste not to use it," she told me -- to establish an organization that has done more than any other to promote the circular economy, using a hierarchy of strategies. The best is the simplest: Waste less stuff by keeping it in use.

為什么當(dāng)時沒人談?wù)撨@個話題？她感到困惑。她放棄了競技性帆航，利用自己的名氣和與企業(yè)董事會打交道的渠道--她對我說“不利用就浪費了”--建起一個組織，以多層級策略推廣循環(huán)經(jīng)濟，并成為這項事業(yè)的領(lǐng)頭羊。最好的方式也是最簡單的：通過延長使用期，降低物品浪費量。

That choice hits many people most acutely in their closets. From 2000 to 2015, while the world population grew by a fifth, clothing production doubled, according to an Ellen MacArthur Foundation report, thanks to the explosion of "fast fashion." With so many cheap clothes, the report estimated, the average item was worn a third fewer times by 2015. That year, the world threw away more than $450 billion worth of clothes.

這一選擇對大多數(shù)人造成的最直接沖擊體現(xiàn)在他們的衣櫥里。根據(jù)艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會的一份報告，從2000年到2015年，世界人口增長了五分之一，但隨著“快消時尚”的爆發(fā)，服裝制造量翻了一倍。報告估計，由于存在如此多的廉價衣服，到2015年，每件衣服上身的機會減少了三分之一。今年，全世界丟棄的衣物價值逾4500億美元。