運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑服不是潮流，而是生活方式

“They were all wearing trainers and layers of black,”says Evelyn Cotter,a career coach based in London.She’s describing a recent public speaking conference she attended,where the crowd of ambitious young professionals were dressed in a uniform way.

"他們都穿著運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋和一身黑衣服。"倫敦職場(chǎng)教練伊芙琳·考特(Evelyn Cotter)說(shuō)。她描述著最近參加的一場(chǎng)公開演講活動(dòng)，與會(huì)的那些滿懷抱負(fù)的年輕專業(yè)人士都穿著風(fēng)格統(tǒng)一的服裝。

“Everyone had come straight from work,they were wearing black jeans and smart sneakers,but it definitely felt professional,”adds Cotter.“It’s a conscious style choice.It’s not just what you throw on to play with your dog in the garden.”

"所有人都是下班后直接過(guò)來(lái)的。他們都穿著黑色牛仔褲和時(shí)尚運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋，但這確實(shí)感覺(jué)是很符合職業(yè)人士的服裝。"考特說(shuō)，"他們特意選擇了這種風(fēng)格，而不僅僅是在院子里逗狗玩的時(shí)候才穿這些衣服。"

The industry of‘athleisure’–sporty clothes and shoes that people don’t necessarily wear to play sport–grew by a staggering 42%between 2008 and 2015,according to Morgan Stanley research.More recently,its influence has begun to creep into offices,where workers’clothing is becoming increasingly relaxed and designed for comfort.The Society for Human Resource Management,an international organisation,tracks how many employers allow workers to dress casually every day,and that figure rose from 32%in 2014 to 44%in 2016.

"運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑服"指的是并非專為參加運(yùn)動(dòng)而設(shè)計(jì)的運(yùn)動(dòng)服和運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋，該行業(yè)在2008至2015年間實(shí)現(xiàn)了42%的驚人增長(zhǎng)。最近，它的影響力開始向辦公室滲透，職員們的服裝變得越來(lái)越休閑，越來(lái)越重視舒適性。國(guó)際組織人力資源管理學(xué)會(huì)(The Society for Human Resource Management)追蹤了允許雇員每天穿休閑服上班的雇主數(shù)量，結(jié)果發(fā)現(xiàn)，這一比例從2014年的32%增長(zhǎng)到2016年的44%。

It’s not just trainers making their way into work uniforms.There are also suit trousers with a drawstring waist,designed to blur the lines between tracksuit bottoms and smart trousers,and perfectly conventional-looking dress shirts and jackets made with the type of hi-tech fabric that you’d usually associate with hiking or the gym.

進(jìn)入職業(yè)裝序列的不只是運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋。有的西褲也設(shè)計(jì)了松緊腰帶，為的是模糊運(yùn)動(dòng)褲與時(shí)尚長(zhǎng)褲之間的界限。甚至有一些表面看來(lái)很傳統(tǒng)的襯衣和夾克，實(shí)際上也采用了通常只能在徒步或健身服飾中見到的高科技面料。

UK designer Joanna Sykes has designed her new collection entirely around this theme,referring to the look as“tracksuit suiting”.It includes tracksuit bottoms smart enough to wear with jackets and a white poplin shirt that fastens with a zip.

英國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師喬娜·賽克斯(Joanna Sykes)曾經(jīng)圍繞這一主題設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)一組全新的服裝，她將那種樣式稱作"運(yùn)動(dòng)正裝"，包括可以跟夾克搭配的時(shí)尚運(yùn)動(dòng)褲，以及配有拉鏈的白色府綢襯衫。

“This athleisure thing,”Sykes says,“I don’t see it as a trend but more of a permanent lifestyle shift.More and more people are working remotely and on the move,and expectations of a woman’s uniform in the workplace have changed.People want to feel more comfortable,but they also want to look smart.”

"我不覺(jué)得運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑是一種潮流，"賽克斯說(shuō)，"我認(rèn)為這是生活方式的一種永久性變化。遠(yuǎn)程工作的人越來(lái)越多，而人們對(duì)女性職業(yè)裝的預(yù)期也已經(jīng)改變。人們希望穿著更加舒服，但又不失時(shí)尚。"

Not everyone can get away with wearing a tracksuit to work,of course,and Cotter advises her clients to pay a certain amount of attention to the usual attire of their clients or bosses when deciding how formally to dress.

當(dāng)然，并非所有人都可以穿運(yùn)動(dòng)服上班，而考特也建議她的客戶在決定究竟應(yīng)該穿多么正式的服裝時(shí)，參考一下他們自己的客戶和老板日常的穿著。

Harvard researchers have found that those who intentionally resist convention come across as competent and powerful–they call it the“red sneaker effect”–but Cotter suggests that,“if putting a look together isn’t your natural strength,then play it safe.”

哈佛大學(xué)研究人員發(fā)現(xiàn)，故意對(duì)抗傳統(tǒng)的人會(huì)給人留下有能力、有權(quán)勢(shì)的印象——他們稱之為"紅運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋效應(yīng)"——但考特建議，"如果穿著打扮不是你的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)，那就應(yīng)該謹(jǐn)慎求穩(wěn)。"