2019年,中國將達到一個里程碑,這會證明全球經(jīng)濟力量再平衡如何改變產(chǎn)業(yè)。
“The year ahead is one that will go down in history,” write consultancy McKinsey & Company and media outlet The Business of Fashion in their joint report on the state of fashion in 2019. “Greater China will for the first time in centuries overtake the US as the world’s largest fashion market.”
美國麥肯錫咨詢公司和英國時裝商業(yè)評論公司在共同發(fā)布的2019年時尚業(yè)態(tài)報告中寫道:“未來一年將被載入史冊。大中華區(qū)數(shù)百年來將首次超過美國,成為全球最大的時尚市場。”
The wealth of China’s nearly 1.4 billion people is rapidly multiplying, creating legions of new consumers with disposable income to spend on things such as sports, entertainment, and of course, clothes and shoes. It’s shaping the way the fashion industry operates. Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for example, now looks to China, not the US, as the place where it tests new products before deciding whether to roll them out around the world.
中國近14億人口的財富正在迅速增長,從而產(chǎn)生了一個有能力在體育、娛樂當(dāng)然還有服裝和鞋類上消費的人數(shù)眾多的新消費者群體。這正在塑造時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的運作方式。例如,意大利品牌杰尼亞現(xiàn)在把中國而不是美國作為測試新產(chǎn)品的地點,然后再決定是否在全球推廣這些產(chǎn)品。
multiply ['m?lt?pla?] vi.乘;繁殖;增加
Many luxury labels already depend heavily on Chinese customers, who have for some time been the world’s biggest buyers of luxury goods, counting the purchases they make both inside their home country and while traveling. Thanks to the ascendance of young shoppers, as well as government policies meant to encourage shopping inside the country, much of that spending is moving back inside Greater China’s borders.
很多奢侈品品牌已嚴(yán)重依賴中國消費者,一段時間以來,中國人一直是全世界最大的奢侈品購買群體,這包括他們在國內(nèi)和出國旅行時的消費。由于年輕消費者占據(jù)主流,以及政府出臺鼓勵境內(nèi)購物的政策,奢侈品消費支出中的很大一部分正在回流大中華區(qū)。
Luxury is only part of the consumption picture in China, of course, particularly since most of the population still can’t afford luxury prices. Sports brands such as Nike and Adidas are investing heavily in their Chinese businesses, as the growing middle class has more leisure time and money to devote to exercise and fitness. And then there’s the giant, booming market for inexpensive clothes. Much of that demand is satisfied not by Western brands, but by local ones such as Heilan Home, Peacebird, and La Chapelle.
當(dāng)然,奢侈品只是中國消費版圖的一部分,其價格對多數(shù)中國人來說還是過于高昂。由于不斷壯大的中產(chǎn)階級有更多的閑暇時間和金錢來鍛煉健身,耐克和阿迪達斯等運動品牌正在大力投資中國的業(yè)務(wù)。此外,平價服裝的市場非常巨大,正在蓬勃發(fā)展。中國平價服裝市場的大部分需求不是靠西方品牌滿足的,而是海瀾之家、太平鳥和拉夏貝爾等本土品牌。
Though China has long had a taste for international labels, more Chinese are now embracing homegrown brands. Achim Berg, who leads McKinsey’s global apparel, fashion, and luxury practice, said during a press briefing about the report, that international brands established in the market look to be cooling off some. “We also see that there are local brands now coming up and becoming relevant,” he said. “I think this desire to only buy international brands in the mid-markets is also waning a bit.”
雖然中國人一直青睞國際品牌,但現(xiàn)在越來越多的中國人開始接受本土品牌。麥肯錫全球服裝、時尚和奢侈品業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人阿奇姆·伯格在出席一次新聞發(fā)布會時談到了這份報告。他說,已經(jīng)在市場站穩(wěn)腳跟的國際大品牌似乎正遭到冷落。他說:“我們還看到,一些本土品牌開始嶄露頭角,變得舉足輕重。我認(rèn)為,在中端市場,只想買國際品牌的意愿也在減弱。”
press briefing: 新聞發(fā)布會;記者招待會
Simon Lock, CEO of Ordre.com, commented during the briefing that he’s seen many of the Chinese students who go abroad to study fashion more often returning home to start their lines, rather than staying in New York or London as they typically had in the past. “They are now all rushing back to Shanghai and Beijing and establishing really good beachhead businesses in China before they start their international expansion,” he said.
Order.com網(wǎng)站的首席執(zhí)行官西蒙·洛克在新聞發(fā)布會上表示,現(xiàn)在,很多在國外學(xué)習(xí)時裝的中國學(xué)生選擇回國發(fā)展,而不是像過去一樣待在美國紐約或英國倫敦。“如今,他們都回到了上海和北京,在開始國際擴張之前,先在中國建立良好的灘頭業(yè)務(wù)。”
As all this continues, so does China’s growth. Kevin Sneader, McKinsey’s global managing partner, pointed out that, under a moderate scenario of growth, China will add a number of consumers and spending power roughly equivalent to Germany’s current economy by 2025.
這種趨勢在上升,中國的增長也是如此。麥肯錫全球管理合伙人凱文·斯尼德爾指出,在穩(wěn)健的增長態(tài)勢下,中國的消費者數(shù)量將大大增加,到2025年,其購買力將大致相當(dāng)于德國目前的經(jīng)濟水平。