揮別炮火與敵意，金門(mén)接受中國(guó)大陸示好

KINMEN COUNTY, Taiwan — The islands of Kinmen County, and the Nationalist troops stationed there, withstood artillery shelling from China long after the Communist victory in the Chinese civil war.

臺(tái)灣金門(mén)縣——在共產(chǎn)黨取得了中國(guó)內(nèi)戰(zhàn)勝利后的很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間里，金門(mén)縣的島嶼和駐扎在那里的國(guó)民黨軍隊(duì)經(jīng)受住了來(lái)自中國(guó)的炮擊。

Today, relations between China and Kinmen, just miles apart, are very different indeed.

中國(guó)和金門(mén)相隔僅數(shù)英里，今天，它們之間的關(guān)系確實(shí)非常不同了。

Kinmen, about twice the size of Manhattan, has been governed from Taiwan since the defeated Nationalists fled China for the islands in 1949. But Taiwan’s main island is 140 miles away, while China looms visibly in the near distance. That distance is narrowing — both literally and figuratively.

金門(mén)的面積大約是曼哈頓的兩倍，自1949年被擊敗的國(guó)民黨逃離中國(guó)以來(lái)，這里的島嶼一直由臺(tái)灣統(tǒng)治。但臺(tái)灣主島距它有140英里(約合225公里)，而中國(guó)卻近在眼前。如今這個(gè)距離還在縮小——無(wú)論是從字面意義還是從比喻的意義來(lái)說(shuō)。

A new airport for the Chinese city of Xiamen is being built just north of Kinmen, on an island three miles away, and land reclamation for that project will bring Chinese territory almost a mile closer.

中國(guó)城市廈門(mén)正在金門(mén)以北3英里(約合4.8公里)的一座島上修建新機(jī)場(chǎng)，這個(gè)項(xiàng)目填海造地將使中國(guó)同金門(mén)的距離縮短至1英里(約合1.6公里)。

A proposed bridge to the Xiamen airport from Kinmen would essentially eliminate the remaining gap. Last month, China began supplying Kinmen with drinking water through a new 10-mile pipeline. And Kinmen will probably soon get cheaper electricity from its onetime enemy.

擬建的從金門(mén)通往廈門(mén)機(jī)場(chǎng)的大橋?qū)母旧舷Ｓ嗟木嚯x。上個(gè)月，中國(guó)開(kāi)始通過(guò)新修建的10英里(約合16公里)管道向金門(mén)供水。金門(mén)還可能很快會(huì)從其曾經(jīng)的敵人那里獲得更便宜的電力。

The Aug. 5 ceremony to open the pipeline underscored how much Kinmen, home to about 130,000 people, has been pulled into the orbit of China, whose ruling Communist Party has never controlled Taiwan and wants to annex it.

8月5日，新供水管道的開(kāi)通儀式表明，大約有13萬(wàn)人居住的金門(mén)已被拉入中國(guó)的軌道;中國(guó)執(zhí)政的共產(chǎn)黨從未控制過(guò)臺(tái)灣，并且希望吞并臺(tái)灣。

Liu Jieyi, the director of Beijing’s Taiwan Affairs Office, used his speech at the ceremony on the island to demand that self-governing, democratic Taiwan accept the “One China” policy, which declares that Taiwan and China are part of the same country.

北京的臺(tái)灣事務(wù)辦公室主任劉結(jié)一在該島舉行的儀式上發(fā)表講話(huà)時(shí)，要求自治、民主的臺(tái)灣接受“一個(gè)中國(guó)”的政策，即臺(tái)灣和中國(guó)屬于同一個(gè)國(guó)家。

“The vast populace of Taiwan will certainly make the correct choice,” Mr. Liu said.

“廣大臺(tái)灣民眾一定會(huì)做出正確的抉擇，”劉結(jié)一說(shuō)。

He almost certainly wouldn’t have made such a speech on Taiwan’s main island, where suspicion of China runs high. When Mr. Liu’s predecessor toured Taiwan in 2014, he was met with protests in multiple cities and his car was splashed with paint.

幾乎可以肯定，他無(wú)法在臺(tái)灣主島上發(fā)表這樣的講話(huà)，那里對(duì)中國(guó)猜疑的情緒正在高漲。劉結(jié)一的前任于2014年訪(fǎng)問(wèn)臺(tái)灣時(shí)，在多個(gè)城市遭到抗議，車(chē)上被潑了油漆。

Wang Ting-yu, a Taiwanese lawmaker with the Democratic Progressive Party, said the freedom and democracy enjoyed in Kinmen made it unlikely that its residents would want to be part of authoritarian China. But he said China’s ruling Communist Party had had some success on the island with so-called United Front tactics, under which it works with non-Communist groups to achieve its goals.

臺(tái)灣的民進(jìn)黨立法委員王定宇表示，金門(mén)享有自由民主，因此居民不太可能愿意成為威權(quán)主義中國(guó)的一部分。但他表示，中國(guó)執(zhí)政的共產(chǎn)黨在該島采取所謂的“統(tǒng)一戰(zhàn)線(xiàn)”戰(zhàn)術(shù)，與非共產(chǎn)黨團(tuán)體合作實(shí)現(xiàn)其目標(biāo)，并取得了一些成功。

“As far as bringing Kinmen closer to China, I’d say at present it still looks doubtful,” Mr. Wang said, “but you can’t deny that the resources China has invested in United Front work in Kinmen have had a certain effect.”

“要拉攏金門(mén)，我說(shuō)現(xiàn)在還不太可能，”王定宇說(shuō)。“但你不能否認(rèn)中國(guó)在金門(mén)的統(tǒng)戰(zhàn)工作投入的資源產(chǎn)生了一定的效果。”

Chen Fu-hai, the magistrate of Kinmen County, who shared the stage with Mr. Liu at the pipeline ceremony, said he wasn’t concerned that the water supply would give China political leverage.

與劉結(jié)一一同出席通水儀式的金門(mén)縣縣長(zhǎng)陳福海說(shuō)，他并不擔(dān)心供水會(huì)增加中國(guó)的政治影響力。

“I think China and Taiwan should have more interaction,” he said in an interview.

“我認(rèn)為中國(guó)和臺(tái)灣應(yīng)該有更多交流，”他在接受采訪(fǎng)時(shí)說(shuō)。

The new pipeline will provide Kinmen with 30 percent of its tap water, making up for strains on water supplies from growing Chinese tourism, environmental factors and the two sorghum liquor distilleries that provide most of the county’s tax revenue.

新管道將為金門(mén)提供30%的自來(lái)水，彌補(bǔ)中國(guó)游客增長(zhǎng)、環(huán)境因素以及金門(mén)稅收大戶(hù)——兩家高粱酒廠所帶來(lái)的供水壓力。

On a recent hot afternoon at Kinmen’s Tianpo Reservoir, where the pipeline from China empties, Hong Yanming, a Kinmen resident, called the new water connection a “joyous occasion for both sides of the Taiwan Strait.” She was taking photos with friends and family visiting from China.

前不久一個(gè)炎熱的下午，中國(guó)的輸水管將水注入金門(mén)的田埔水庫(kù)，當(dāng)?shù)鼐用窈槠G明(音)說(shuō)，這個(gè)新的供水系統(tǒng)是“海峽兩岸的歡樂(lè)慶典”。她和來(lái)自中國(guó)的朋友與家人合影留念。

Ms. Hong moved to Kinmen from China 24 years ago after marrying a local man. She is one of a few thousand Chinese women to have married Kinmenese men in the last three decades, one aspect of the growing ties between Kinmen and China. Many Kinmenese own property or do business in China.

24年前，洪艷明與一名當(dāng)?shù)啬凶咏Y(jié)婚后，從中國(guó)搬到了金門(mén)。在過(guò)去30年里，有數(shù)千名中國(guó)女性嫁到金門(mén)，這也是金門(mén)與中國(guó)之間關(guān)系日益密切的一個(gè)方面。許多金門(mén)人在中國(guó)有房產(chǎn)或者做生意。

She said her home village, Weitou, was next to the lake that is now feeding the reservoir here. “There are about 40 women from Weitou village here in Kinmen,” she said. “I’m so happy — now we can all drink water from our hometown.”

洪艷明說(shuō)，她的家鄉(xiāng)圍頭村就位于給這里供水的湖邊。 “金門(mén)大概有40個(gè)圍頭的女人，”她說(shuō)。“我很開(kāi)心——現(xiàn)在我們都能喝到家鄉(xiāng)的水了。”

As in mainland Taiwan, identity can be a complicated question for people born in Kinmen. The older generation tends to identify more as Chinese than Taiwanese, while younger people often view China’s growing influence warily.

和臺(tái)灣本島一樣，對(duì)于在金門(mén)出生的人來(lái)說(shuō)，身份定位可能是一個(gè)復(fù)雜的問(wèn)題。老一輩人更傾向于認(rèn)為自己是中國(guó)人，而不是臺(tái)灣人;而年輕人往往對(duì)中國(guó)日益增長(zhǎng)的影響力保持警惕。

The island, along with adjacent Lesser Kinmen, was shelled sporadically by China from the 1950s through the late 1970s. It was heavily militarized and cut off even from mainland Taiwan until 1992, when martial law on Kinmen ended — five years later than in the rest of Taiwan — and residents participated in their first local elections.

從上世紀(jì)50年代到70年代末，這個(gè)島嶼以及鄰近的小金門(mén)不時(shí)遭到中國(guó)的炮擊。在1992年解除軍事戒嚴(yán)以前，它一直處于高度軍事化狀態(tài)，甚至與臺(tái)灣本島隔絕。金門(mén)軍事戒嚴(yán)的解除比臺(tái)灣其他地區(qū)晚了5年，在這以后，居民們才參加了他們的第一次地方選舉。

Kinmen, unlike mainland Taiwan, did not spend half a century as a Japanese colony; it was a Chinese territory for most of that time. Such stark differences in their experiences, as well as the distance between the islands, have made the relationship awkward.

與臺(tái)灣本島不同，金門(mén)沒(méi)有成為半個(gè)世紀(jì)的日本殖民地;在那段歷史的大部分時(shí)間里，它都是中國(guó)領(lǐng)土。在經(jīng)歷上的如此明顯的差異，以及島嶼之間的距離，使金門(mén)和臺(tái)灣本島的關(guān)系變得尷尬。

Tourists visiting Kinmen from mainland Taiwan might find it odd to hear a resident speak of “going to Taiwan” for school or work, implying that Kinmen isn’t part of Taiwan.

當(dāng)金門(mén)居民說(shuō)“去臺(tái)灣”上學(xué)或工作，好像金門(mén)不屬于臺(tái)灣一樣時(shí)，從臺(tái)灣本島來(lái)到金門(mén)觀光的游客可能會(huì)覺(jué)得奇怪。

Many Kinmenese say they’ve been abandoned by Taipei, Taiwan’s capital, since the arrival of democracy. Mr. Chen, an independent politician who is Kinmen’s first elected magistrate not to be a member of the Nationalists, or Kuomintang, said none of Taiwan’s elected presidents had paid enough attention to the county’s needs.

許多金門(mén)居民說(shuō)，自從民主制度建立后，他們就被臺(tái)北——臺(tái)灣的首府拋棄了。陳先生是一名獨(dú)立政客，也是金門(mén)第一個(gè)不屬于國(guó)民黨的民選縣長(zhǎng)。他說(shuō)，沒(méi)有一個(gè)臺(tái)灣民選總統(tǒng)對(duì)金門(mén)縣的需要給予足夠的關(guān)注。

After Kinmen’s demilitarization in 1992, he said, “we lacked water, we lacked electricity and we lacked roads — we had nothing.”

1992年金門(mén)非軍事化后，他說(shuō)，“我們沒(méi)有水，沒(méi)有電，沒(méi)有道路，什么都沒(méi)有。”

Economically, he said, Kinmen has largely had to fend for itself since then, relying primarily on sorghum liquor sales and, more recently, Chinese tourism. Ferry services to mainland China began in 2001, and Kinmen’s view of its giant neighbor has been softening since then.

他說(shuō)，從經(jīng)濟(jì)上講，從那以后，金門(mén)基本上不得不自食其力，主要依靠高粱酒的銷(xiāo)售，以及最近的中國(guó)旅游業(yè)。通往中國(guó)大陸的渡輪服務(wù)始于2001年，此后金門(mén)對(duì)這個(gè)龐大鄰居的看法一直在軟化。

“Right now, actually, I see the mainland as also being quite democratic, at least what I’ve seen in Xiamen,” Mr. Chen said of the booming Chinese city nearby. Asked to clarify that, he said he meant that the local government departments he’d met with had been “quite open.”

“現(xiàn)在，實(shí)際上，我認(rèn)為大陸也是相當(dāng)民主的，至少我在廈門(mén)看到的是這樣。”陳先生在提到附近繁榮的中國(guó)城市時(shí)說(shuō)。當(dāng)被要求進(jìn)一步說(shuō)明時(shí)，他說(shuō)，他的意思是，他會(huì)見(jiàn)的相關(guān)地方政府部門(mén)“相當(dāng)開(kāi)放”。

Lauren Dickey, a researcher at King’s College London who specializes in Beijing-Taiwan relations, said China’s pull on Kinmen was only natural.

倫敦大學(xué)國(guó)王學(xué)院(King s College London)研究北京與臺(tái)灣關(guān)系的研究員勞倫·迪基(Lauren Dickey)表示，中國(guó)對(duì)金門(mén)的吸引力是自然的。

“If the local government on Kinmen is not finding the central government in Taipei to be meeting its needs, then it is perhaps only logical that the Kinmen government would reach out to the geographically closest resources to ensure needs are met,” she said.

她說(shuō)，“如果金門(mén)地方政府發(fā)現(xiàn)臺(tái)北中央政府并不能滿(mǎn)足其需求，那么為確保需求得到滿(mǎn)足，金門(mén)政府接觸地理上最接近的資源或許是合乎邏輯的。”

In the shadow of Xiamen’s urban buzz, much of Kinmen’s population has been hollowed out, with young people opting to move to the Taiwanese mainland or to China. Most of its photogenic traditional villages are only about one-third occupied, with many of the old courtyard homes in disrepair.

在廈門(mén)城市喧囂的陰影下，金門(mén)的大部分人口已經(jīng)被掏空。許多年輕人選擇搬到臺(tái)灣或中國(guó)大陸。那些風(fēng)光秀美的傳統(tǒng)村莊大多只剩下三分之一的人口，許多老院子年久失修。

Some young people who have stayed say the political climate has changed.

一些留下來(lái)的年輕人說(shuō)，政治氣候已經(jīng)改變。

Wang Ting-chi returned to Kinmen after six years in New York and founded a company, Local Methodology, to provide a nongovernmental platform for promoting Kinmen culture. She said she was concerned that Kinmenese felt like “orphans” because of the distance from Taiwan’s main island, and that they might be tempted by overtures from an increasingly powerful China.

王莛頎在紐約工作6年后回到金門(mén)，成立了一家名為“敬土豆”的公司，為推廣金門(mén)文化提供一個(gè)非政府的平臺(tái)。她說(shuō)她擔(dān)心，由于與臺(tái)灣主島相距遙遠(yuǎn)，金門(mén)人感覺(jué)自己像“孤兒”，他們可能會(huì)被日益強(qiáng)大的中國(guó)的示好所誘惑。

People who express concerns about Chinese influence, Ms. Wang said, are often dismissed as naïve. “I think Kinmen is going off on its own to establish relations with China,” she said.

王莛頎說(shuō)，那些對(duì)中國(guó)影響表示擔(dān)憂(yōu)的人往往不被理會(huì)，被認(rèn)為是天真。她說(shuō)：“我覺(jué)得金門(mén)將會(huì)獨(dú)立運(yùn)作，和中國(guó)建立關(guān)系。”