二手時(shí)裝正在迅速增長(zhǎng)，到2025年將達(dá)到640億美元

二手時(shí)裝正在迅速增長(zhǎng)，到2025年將達(dá)到640億美元

It's a tough time to be in the fashion industry, with widespread store closures and staffing shortages and nervous customers whose disposable incomes have shrunk in recent months. The only segment of the industry that has really been flourishing throughout these strange times is secondhand, as revealed in the annual resale report published by thredUP and GlobalData, a third-party retail analytics firm.

現(xiàn)在是時(shí)尚界的艱難時(shí)期，商店紛紛關(guān)門，員工短缺，近幾個(gè)月來，顧客的可支配收入縮水，心情緊張。第三方零售分析公司thredUP和GlobalData發(fā)布的年度轉(zhuǎn)售報(bào)告顯示，在這個(gè)奇怪的時(shí)期，該行業(yè)唯一真正繁榮的領(lǐng)域是二手零售。

thredUP is an online platform that allows people to buy and sell used clothing. It's a clever model that has managed to make thrift shopping as easy and convenient as shopping for new clothes online; and being established before the coronavirus pandemic struck has allowed thredUP to grow impressively at a time when similar businesses are stagnating (or worse).

thredUP是一個(gè)允許人們買賣二手衣服的在線平臺(tái)。這是一種聰明的模式，使廉價(jià)購(gòu)物像在網(wǎng)上買新衣服一樣簡(jiǎn)單、方便;在冠狀病毒大流行爆發(fā)之前建立起來的公司，讓thredUP在類似業(yè)務(wù)停滯不前(甚至更糟)的時(shí)候，取得了令人印象深刻的增長(zhǎng)。

thredUP (used with permission)

The annual report for 2020 shows that "resale is set to soar." Between 2019 and 2021, online secondhand shopping is expected to grow by 69%, while the broader retail sector (including offline secondhand) will shrink by 15%. The entire resale sector is expected to grow to five times its current size over the next five years, hitting $64 billion in worth, and will be twice the size of the fast fashion sector by 2029.

2020年的年度報(bào)告顯示，“轉(zhuǎn)售將會(huì)激增。”2019年至2021年，網(wǎng)上二手購(gòu)物預(yù)計(jì)將增長(zhǎng)69%，而更廣泛的零售領(lǐng)域(包括線下二手購(gòu)物)將萎縮15%。未來五年，整個(gè)轉(zhuǎn)售行業(yè)的規(guī)模預(yù)計(jì)將增長(zhǎng)到目前的五倍，達(dá)到640億美元，到2029年將是快時(shí)尚行業(yè)規(guī)模的兩倍。

thredUP (used with permission)

What's driving this explosive growth?

是什么推動(dòng)了這種爆炸性增長(zhǎng)?

There are a number of factors. One is that shoppers are looking for better value, and they realize that buying used clothes is the easiest way to achieve that. The stigma associated with used clothing is not as strong as it once was (90% of Gen Z shoppers say there's no stigma at all), and almost half of shoppers surveyed say they plan to spend more on secondhand items in the next twelve months.

有很多因素。一是購(gòu)物者在尋找更有價(jià)值的東西，他們意識(shí)到購(gòu)買二手衣服是實(shí)現(xiàn)這一目標(biāo)最簡(jiǎn)單的方法。人們對(duì)二手衣服的偏見已經(jīng)不像以前那么強(qiáng)烈了(90%的Z一代購(gòu)物者說根本不存在偏見)，幾乎有一半的受訪者表示，他們計(jì)劃在未來12個(gè)月里在二手衣服上花更多的錢。

Another factor is the coronavirus pandemic, and the fact that so many people have been cooped up at home. Avid shoppers had to find an outlet online, which is why platforms like thredUP did so well. It also received a huge amount of inventory, purged from people's closets during a "quarantine clean-out frenzy."

另一個(gè)因素是冠狀病毒大流行，如此多的人被關(guān)在家里。狂熱的購(gòu)物者不得不在網(wǎng)上找到一個(gè)銷售點(diǎn)，這就是為什么像thredUP這樣的平臺(tái)做得這么好。它還收到了大量庫(kù)存，這些庫(kù)存都是在一次“檢疫清理狂潮”中從人們的衣櫥中清理出來的。

Finally, people are more concerned about sustainability than ever before. Young shoppers in particular are more aware of the damage caused by the fashion industry, its notoriously poor working conditions, its enormous water footprint, and the toxic chemicals used to create colors and finishes, and they are keen to make fashion-related decisions to mitigate that harm. In fact, the report found that "choosing unsustainable options now elicits feelings of guilt or shame, while being green gives a euphoric mood boost."

最后，人們比以往任何時(shí)候都更加關(guān)注可持續(xù)發(fā)展。尤其是年輕的購(gòu)物者，他們更加意識(shí)到時(shí)尚行業(yè)所造成的損害，其臭名昭著的惡劣工作條件，其巨大的水足跡，以及用于制造顏色和拋光的有毒化學(xué)物質(zhì)，他們熱衷于做出與時(shí)尚相關(guān)的決定，以減輕這種損害。事實(shí)上，該報(bào)告發(fā)現(xiàn)，“選擇不可持續(xù)的選項(xiàng)會(huì)引發(fā)內(nèi)疚或羞愧感，而綠色則會(huì)帶來愉悅的情緒。”

It's more than just a euphoric mood boost; it actually does make a difference. If everyone wore a thrifted outfit to a wedding next year, it would save 1.65 pound of CO2e, which is equivalent to taking 56 million cars off the road for one day. Reselling a dress instead of tossing it reduces its CO2e impact by 79%. By choosing secondhand, you can shrink your own carbon footprint by 527 pounds in a year.

這不僅僅是一種欣快的情緒提升;這確實(shí)很重要。如果明年每個(gè)人都穿著廉價(jià)的衣服去參加婚禮，將節(jié)省1.65英鎊的二氧化碳，相當(dāng)于減少5600萬輛汽車一天的排放量。將一件衣服轉(zhuǎn)賣而不是扔掉可以減少79%的二氧化碳排放。如果選擇二手的，你一年可以減少527磅的碳足跡。

thredUP (used with permission)

There is potential for this to turn into a positive feedback loop of sorts, where savvy shoppers start buying higher quality items so that they'll retain value and can be resold when the time comes. This in turn has the potential to reduce demand for cheap and shoddily constructed "fast fashion."

這有可能變成某種積極的反饋循環(huán)，精明的購(gòu)物者開始購(gòu)買更高質(zhì)量的商品，這樣它們就能保持價(jià)值，并在時(shí)機(jī)成熟時(shí)轉(zhuǎn)售。這反過來又有可能減少對(duì)廉價(jià)粗制濫造的“快時(shí)尚”的需求。

Everyone is jumping on the resale bandwagon these days. Major retailers are partnering with thredUP through its new "Resale as a Service" platform to broaden their earnings and spruce up their sustainability credentials. They're offering Clean Out Kits to customers to send in used clothing and earn credits toward thredUP products. As described by Business of Fashion,

現(xiàn)在每個(gè)人都趕上了轉(zhuǎn)賣的潮流。主要的零售商正通過其新的“服務(wù)轉(zhuǎn)售”平臺(tái)與thredUP合作，以擴(kuò)大他們的收入，并美化他們的可持續(xù)性信譽(yù)。他們向顧客提供清潔工具包，讓他們把舊衣服寄進(jìn)來，并獲得購(gòu)買thredUP產(chǎn)品的積分。正如時(shí)尚商業(yè)雜志所描述的，

"If I’m a fashion brand right now and see that the resale industry is growing at a rate that’s 21 times faster than the overall fashion industry, I’d be thinking to myself, 'How do I get a piece of this?'"

“如果我現(xiàn)在是一個(gè)時(shí)尚品牌，看到轉(zhuǎn)售行業(yè)的增長(zhǎng)速度比整個(gè)時(shí)尚行業(yè)快21倍，我就會(huì)想，‘我怎么才能分得一杯羹?’”

While online secondhand shopping may not be for everyone, it's exciting to see how well it's doing at a time when so much else is struggling. It offers a straightforward solution to the problems of clothing overconsumption and environmental degradation, while still enabling people to dress well and for less money than they'd spend otherwise. What's not to love about that?

雖然網(wǎng)上二手購(gòu)物可能不適合每個(gè)人，但在其他很多東西都在掙扎的時(shí)候，看到它做得這么好，還是令人興奮的。它為服裝過度消費(fèi)和環(huán)境惡化的問題提供了一個(gè)直接的解決方案，同時(shí)仍然使人們能夠穿著得體，而且花費(fèi)比不這樣做要少。有什么理由不去喜歡這種模式呢?