那不勒斯，一座披薩“圣城”

NAPLES, Italy — Above the throng shoving its way along Via dei Tribunali, this pizza-crazed city’s historic pizza thoroughfare, Antonio Borrelli leaned over the fake lemons hanging from the “Balcony of Song” above Antica Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo and dared sing something else.

意大利那不勒斯——在為披薩而瘋狂的那不勒斯城歷史悠久、人潮涌動的披薩大道(Via dei Tribunali)上方，安東尼奧·博雷利(Antonio Borrelli)俯身沖著從吉諾·索比羅老牌披薩店(Antica Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo)樓上的“音樂露臺”(Balcony of Song)懸掛的假檸檬，竟然唱了一首跟披薩無關(guān)的歌。

“The pizza!” the crowd screamed in protest.

“披薩!”人群發(fā)出了抗議的呼喊聲。

“The pizza. OK, OK, OK. Give me a second,” Borrelli, a local crooning attraction, said Friday as he switched the track on his sound machine, gripped the microphone and, with an intro of “Everybody, here we go again,” sang: “But you wanted the pizza. The pizza. The pizza. With the tomato sauce on top. With the tomato sauce on top.”

“披薩。好，好，好。給我點時間，”這是一個周五，當?shù)氐氖闱楦栊遣├桌贿呎f著，一邊給音響換了一曲，拿起麥克風，在說了一句開場白“各位，我們重新開始”之后，他唱道：“但你們想要披薩。披薩，披薩。還要配著番茄醬，還要配著番茄醬。”

The delighted crowd sang along with Borelli in Neapolitan dialect, and then lost its collective marbles when he pointed out that the celebrity pizza maker Gino Sorbillo had stepped out of the restaurant and onto the street.

興高采烈的人群和博雷利一起用那不勒斯的方言唱了起來。當博雷利告訴他們明星披薩師傅吉諾·索比羅(Gino Sorbillo)已經(jīng)從餐廳出來、走到了街上時，人們統(tǒng)統(tǒng)都喪失了理智。

Naples was in the throes of a citywide pizza party.

那不勒斯全城正在舉行披薩派對。

News had come from far away, on the South Korean island of Jeju, that UNESCO’s Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage put the roughly 3,000 pizza makers, or pizzaiuoli, of Naples on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. (“The art of Neapolitan pizzaiuoli is Intangible Heritage of Humanity!” tweeted the Italian culture minister, Dario Franceschini.)

從遙遠的韓國濟州島傳來消息稱，聯(lián)合國教科文組織(UNESCO)保護非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)委員會(Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage)已將那不勒斯城中的大約3000名披薩師傅——也就是pizzaiuoli——列入了人類非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表名錄(Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity)。(“那不勒斯披薩師傅的手藝是人類非物質(zhì)遺產(chǎn)!”意大利文化部長達里奧·弗蘭切斯基尼[Dario Franceschini]在Twitter發(fā)貼說。)

There were 32 other intangible winners of the tangible list, including Chogan, an Iranian horse-riding game accompanied by music and storytelling, and Uilleann piping from Ireland, but the pizzaiuoli of Naples proved as skilled in the art of self-promotion as in baking pies.

另外還有其他32項非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)也入選了該名錄，包括Chogan——伊朗一項伴著音樂和故事騎馬的比賽——以及愛爾蘭的Uilleann風笛，但那不勒斯的披薩師傅證明了，他們自我宣傳的手段和制作披薩的手段一樣高超。

“Finally, the world recognizes the capability of the pizza maker,” Sorbillo, 43, said. “We make a product that has conquered the world.”

“世界終于承認了披薩師傅的能力，”43歲的索比羅說。“我們做出了一個征服世界的產(chǎn)品。”

Immaculately groomed and bespectacled, Sorbillo walked into the kitchen, past a cardboard cutout of himself holding his new book, “Pizzaman.” He took a ball of dough from atop a stack of pink, green, blue and red boxes, tossed some flour on the marble countertop and smacked the dough down hard.

在捯飭完畢、戴好眼鏡后，索比羅經(jīng)過一個自己的人形立牌走進了廚房，人形立牌里的他拿著自己的新書《披薩匠》(Pizzaman)。他從一堆粉色、綠色、藍色、紅的的盒子上方拿出了一塊面團，往大理石的工作臺上撒了一些面粉，然后使勁地把面團摔了下去。

“This is called the slap method,” he said.

“這叫摔打法，”他說。

Next he spread the sauce, sprinkled the cheese, drizzled the oil and pulled the edges of what would become the raised cornicione crust taut over a wooden peel, before sliding it into the wood-burning oven.

接著，他抹好醬汁、撒上奶酪、灑上油，抓住之后會鼓起成為披薩邊的地方把它拖到長柄木鏟上，然后將披薩送進燒木柴的爐子里。

“It’s an art,” Sorbillo said. “It started in Naples and survived the centuries, despite all the difficulties, the earthquakes, Vesuvius, the war, the wars.”

“這是門藝術(shù)，”索比羅說道。“它起源于那不勒斯，盡管經(jīng)歷了那么多苦難、地震、維蘇威火山爆發(fā)、大戰(zhàn)、世界大戰(zhàn)，幾個世紀以來它都得以存留。”

Sorbillo traces the road to recognition back 300 years ago, but appreciation from UNESCO began more recently, when, in 2009, Pier Luigi Petrillo, an Italian professor and expert in “lobbying theories and techniques” made three applications to UNESCO on behalf of Italy’s Agriculture Ministry.

索比羅把尋求認可的道路追溯回了300年以前，但聯(lián)合國教科文組織最近一些年才開始對此有所認識。2009年，意大利教授、“游說理論和技巧”專家皮耶爾·路易吉·彼得里洛(Pier Luigi Petrillo)代表意大利農(nóng)業(yè)部向聯(lián)合國教科文組織遞交了三項申請。

The first to win was the Mediterranean diet, in 2010, (“It has given rise to a considerable body of knowledge, songs, maxims, tales and legends”), followed in 2014 by the practice of cultivating Zibibbo wine on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria. (“The technique consists of several phases.”) That same year, Petrillo started collecting what ended up being 2 million signatures for the pizzaiuolo cause.

2010年時，地中海飲食首先入選(“它極大地擴展了知識、歌謠、格言、故事和傳說體系”);隨后在2014年，西西里潘泰萊里亞島(Pantelleria)釀酒的澤比波(Zibibbo)葡萄的種植技術(shù)入選(“這項技藝由數(shù)個步驟組成”);同年，彼得里洛開始為披薩申遺收集簽名，最后收集到了200萬個。

He traveled around the world to promote the pizza makers’ candidacy, personally lobbying representatives from crucial voting countries, laying it on thick with children’s drawings of their fathers baking pizza and explaining, per the UNESCO application, that the pizzaiuolo “makes the dough spinning and twirling it between both hands and then raises it to the air with a quick movement, often singing traditional songs.”

他周游世界，宣傳披薩制作者的候選資格，親自游說關(guān)鍵投票國的代表，用孩子們畫的父親烤披薩的圖畫大做文章，按照聯(lián)合國教科文組織的申請要求，解釋披薩制作者“用雙手旋轉(zhuǎn)、纏繞面團，然后把它快速拋到空中，同時還常常唱著傳統(tǒng)歌曲”。

He competed against “female traditional interior wall decoration in Asir, Saudi Arabia,” “Cultural practices associated to the 1st of March” in Bulgaria, and “Taskiwin, martial dance of the western High Atlas” in Morocco. But the pizza lobbying paid off.

他的競爭對手包括“沙特阿拉伯阿西爾省的女性傳統(tǒng)內(nèi)墻裝飾”、保加利亞“三月節(jié)(3月1日)的文化習俗”，以及摩洛哥“大阿特拉斯山的武術(shù)舞蹈”。不過，披薩游說獲得了回報。

At about 5 a.m. last Thursday, Sorbillo woke up Ciro Oliva, the master pizzaiuolo who runs Concettina ai Tre Santi, shouting “Ciro, we won!”

上周四凌晨5點左右，索比羅叫醒經(jīng)營Concettina ai Tre Santi披薩店的披薩制作大師奇羅·奧利瓦(Ciro Oliva)，喊道：“奇羅，我們贏了!”

Oliva, 24, said he started yelling with joy as well. “That day will be remembered in pizza history.”

24歲的奧利瓦說他自己也跟著高興地大喊大叫。“那一天將被銘記在披薩的歷史上。”

Oliva’s great-grandmother started making pizzas in the same building of the tough Sanità section of the city where he works his magic today, with little more than an oven and a window to hand the bread out on the street.

奧利瓦的曾祖母曾在這棟位于治安不佳的薩尼塔區(qū)的建筑里開始做披薩。如今，他也在這里施展魔法，借助的不過是一個烤箱和一個把面包遞到街上的窗口。

Oliva, gregarious and ebullient, has sought to take pizza to the next level. As adept a marketer as Sorbillo, he seized on the UNESCO publicity to show off a tasting menu of haute-cuisine dishes including pork jowl pizza puffs, artichoke sandwiches, fried amberjack calzones and marinara slices that showcased the purity of his products and the sophistication of his skill.

熱情開朗的奧利瓦一直在努力把披薩提升到更高的水平。他和索比羅一樣善于推銷，利用聯(lián)合國教科文組織的宣傳，推出了一份高級烹飪菜肴的品嘗菜單，包括豬頸肉披薩泡芙、洋薊三明治、半圓形炸鲹魚披薩和番茄大蒜調(diào)味汁切片，展示了其產(chǎn)品的純粹和技藝的精湛。

It is a profession, Oliva said, that has allowed him to give back to the community, offering free pizzas and paying for English lessons for local children. He has a loyal following of foodies, and across a courtyard strewn with laundry, a high-tech storage room for his adored dough to rest and mature.

奧利瓦表示，這份職業(yè)讓他能夠回饋社區(qū)，免費提供披薩，出錢讓當?shù)氐暮⒆訉W英語。他有一群忠實的美食追隨者。穿過一個晾滿衣服的院子，有一個高科技儲藏室，他心愛的面團在那里休息、發(fā)酵。

But when he started, as a pizza delivery boy for his parents, driving a scooter with one hand and balancing the pizzas on his forearm with the other, he said no one respected the pizzaiuolo’s craft.

不過，他最初幫父母送披薩時，一只手駕駛著小摩托車，另一只手保持著前臂上披薩的平衡，他說那時候沒人尊重披薩手藝。

“When I was little, they made fun of me,” he said, referring to classmates who greeted him at school with the chorus of a popular Italian song that went, “Go make a pizza.”

“我小時候，他們經(jīng)常取笑我，”他說。他指的是在學校里，同學們跟他打招呼時，總是一起唱起一首意大利流行歌曲，里面有句歌詞是：“去做披薩吧”。

He worried that his daughter, despite now being able to attend an exclusive private school with the children of judges and magistrates, had faced similar slights. But with UNESCO recognizing her father as a leading purveyor of an intangible heritage of humanity, he hopes they will show her more respect.

盡管現(xiàn)在，他的女兒能與法官和地方行政官的孩子們一起上私立學校，但他擔心女兒也面臨著同樣的問題。不過現(xiàn)在，聯(lián)合國教科文組織承認她的父親是人類非物質(zhì)遺產(chǎn)的主要傳承者，他希望他們能更尊重她。

“Now,” he said. “We’ll see.”

“現(xiàn)在，”他說，“讓我們拭目以待。”