從農(nóng)場到餐桌，中國科技公司助你吃得放心

China’s Long Food Chain Plugs In

從農(nóng)場到餐桌，中國科技公司助你吃得放心

HONG KONG — The smartphone tells the story of a kiwi fruit in China.

香港——在中國，智能手機(jī)能夠呈現(xiàn)一顆獼猴桃的完整故事。

With a quick scan of a code, shoppers can look up the fruit’s complete thousand-mile journey from a vine in a lush valley along the upper Yangtze River to a bin in a Beijing supermarket. The smartphone feature, which also details soil and water tests from the farm, is intended to ensure that the kiwi has not been contaminated anywhere along the way.

通過快速掃描代碼，購物者可以查詢這種水果從長江上游蒼翠山谷的藤蔓上到北京超市箱子里的千里之旅。用于智能手機(jī)的這項(xiàng)功能還能提供有關(guān)農(nóng)田土壤和水質(zhì)檢測的詳細(xì)信息。它的目的是確保獼猴桃在這整套流程中不受污染。

“I have scanned some electronic products before, but never any food,” said Xu Guillin, who recently tested the tracking function at the supermarket while shopping with her 3-year-old grandson. “We pay lots of attention to food safety. Most families with young kids would.”

“我以前掃描過一些電子產(chǎn)品，但從來沒有試過食物，”最近帶著3歲的孫子在超市購物的許桂林在嘗試了手機(jī)追蹤功能后說。“我們非常關(guān)注食品安全。大多數(shù)有小孩的家庭都會(huì)關(guān)注。”

Controlling China’s sprawling food supply chain has proved a frustrating endeavor. Government regulators and state-owned agriculture companies have tried to tackle the problem in a number of ways — increasing factory inspections, conducting mass laboratory tests, enhancing enforcement procedures, even with prosecutions and executions — but food safety scandals still emerge too often.

事實(shí)證明，控制中國龐大的食品供應(yīng)鏈?zhǔn)且豁?xiàng)令人沮喪的工作。政府監(jiān)管部門和國有農(nóng)產(chǎn)品公司一直在設(shè)法通過多種方式來應(yīng)對(duì)這一問題，比如加強(qiáng)工廠檢查、進(jìn)行大規(guī)模的實(shí)驗(yàn)室檢測、強(qiáng)化執(zhí)法程序，乃至起訴和處決違法人員，但食品安全丑聞仍舊時(shí)有發(fā)生。

Chinese technology companies believe they can do it better. From the farm to the table, the country’s biggest players are looking to upgrade archaic systems with robust data collection, smartphone apps, online marketplaces and fancy gadgetry.

中國的科技企業(yè)相信自己可以做得更好。從農(nóng)場到餐桌，中國的科技業(yè)巨頭期待利用強(qiáng)大的數(shù)據(jù)搜集能力、智能手機(jī)應(yīng)用程序、網(wǎng)上市場和酷炫的電子設(shè)備來升級(jí)過時(shí)的舊系統(tǒng)。

The founder of the computer maker Lenovo started Joyvio, the agricultural company that tracks kiwis and other fruit from planting to delivery. The Internet giant Alibaba directly connects consumers with farmers via an online produce-delivery service. A gaming entrepreneur is running a pig farm on the side. And Baidu, the country’s leading search engine, is developing a “smart” chopstick that tests whether food is contaminated.

電腦生產(chǎn)商聯(lián)想的創(chuàng)始人后來創(chuàng)立了農(nóng)業(yè)公司佳沃。它會(huì)追蹤記錄獼猴桃等水果從種植到運(yùn)送的各種細(xì)節(jié)。網(wǎng)絡(luò)巨頭阿里巴巴通過從生產(chǎn)到配送的一條龍?jiān)诰€服務(wù)將消費(fèi)者與農(nóng)民直接連接起來。一名掌管游戲公司的企業(yè)家另外還經(jīng)營了一家養(yǎng)豬場。中國主要的搜索引擎公司百度則是正在研發(fā)一款可以檢測食品是否受到污染的“智能”筷子。

“In the food production and agriculture industry, transparency is fundamental,” said Chen Shaopeng, chief executive of Joyvio. “But in China this is not the case.”

“在食品生產(chǎn)和農(nóng)業(yè)產(chǎn)業(yè)里，保持透明是基本原則，”佳沃集團(tuán)總裁陳紹鵬說。“但是在中國，情況并非如此。”

While technology companies may not have the scandal-tainted past of the traditional food industry, they will still have to earn customers’ trust. A shopper at another Beijing supermarket, BHG Market Place, tested the trackable kiwi and was intrigued, although not enough to buy it.

雖然科技公司可能不像傳統(tǒng)食品行業(yè)那樣承受著丑聞迭出的歷史負(fù)擔(dān)，但它們?nèi)匀恍枰A得消費(fèi)者的信任。在北京的另一家超市——華聯(lián)高級(jí)食品超市，一名顧客試著了解了一下這種可追蹤的獼猴桃，而且很感興趣，但這并不足以讓她購買。

“This looks impressive. But the thing is, I don’t really trust any certificate,” said Ms. Jiang, who declined to give her full name, looking closely at a three-page report on the fruit. “We all know that certificates can be faked.”

“讓人印象深刻。但問題是，我其實(shí)不相信任何認(rèn)證，”拒絕透露全名的姜女士說。她仔細(xì)查看著一份有關(guān)這種水果的長達(dá)三頁的報(bào)告。“我們都知道證書可以造假。”

The size of the problem alone is daunting. With more than a billion mouths to feed, China has one of the world’s most complex food chains. At almost every link, there have been problems.

單是食品問題的規(guī)模就會(huì)令人氣餒。中國有十幾億人要吃飯，擁有世界上最復(fù)雜的食品供應(yīng)鏈。幾乎每一個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)都存在問題。

In one of the country’s biggest food scares, in 2008 dairy producers sold milk formula laced with melamine, which put 300,000 babies in the hospital and killed six. Last year, a supplier to McDonald’s and KFC was caught putting rotten and expired meat into products. Penny-pinching chefs cook with waste oil from fryers and sewers, a toxic ingredient known as gutter oil that generally goes unnoticed until diners get sick.

2008年，中國曝出了一樁巨大的食品丑聞：多家乳制品生產(chǎn)商出售摻有三聚氰胺的配方奶粉，致使30萬名嬰兒入院治療，六人死亡。去年，麥當(dāng)勞 (McDonald’s)和肯德基(KFC)的一家供應(yīng)商被發(fā)現(xiàn)向產(chǎn)品中摻入腐爛和過期的肉。吝嗇的廚師會(huì)用從油炸鍋及下水道中回收的廢油做菜，而這種名為“地溝油”的有毒原料通常不會(huì)被注意到，直到食用者患病。

Such food scandals have shaken consumer trust and spurred outcries and protests. The cynicism is so visceral that jokes about food contamination are standard fare on social media and online video shows.

此類食品丑聞動(dòng)搖了消費(fèi)者的信心，引發(fā)了強(qiáng)烈的不滿和抗議。人們出于本能地對(duì)此冷嘲熱諷，在社交媒體和在線視頻中，拿食品污染開玩笑已經(jīng)成為一種慣例。

Baidu’s smart chopsticks were supposed to be a joke for April Fools’ Day. The search engine giant published a fake advertisement for a set of chopsticks that would determine whether food had been cooked with gutter oil. The ad struck a chord, and it quickly went viral on Chinese social media sites.

百度的智能筷子本來是愚人節(jié)的一個(gè)玩笑。這家搜索引擎巨頭發(fā)布了一則假廣告，稱有一種筷子能判別食物是不是由地溝油烹飪的。廣告引發(fā)了共鳴，迅速在中國的社交媒體上火了起來。

With such a strong response, Baidu decided to create a real product. Embedded with sensors, the chopsticks primarily test for gutter oil, but they also indicate pH levels and temperature. The product’s charger allows consumers to identify different fruits and vegetables as well as where they were grown and the calories they contain. The company is debating whether to add a feature that would indicate salinity, allowing users to determine whether mineral water is fake.

由于反響極為強(qiáng)烈，百度決定創(chuàng)造出實(shí)物。這種裝有傳感器的筷子主要用于檢測地溝油，但也能夠顯示酸堿度和溫度。它的充電器能讓消費(fèi)者識(shí)別不同的水果和蔬菜，以及它們的產(chǎn)地和所含熱量。公司正在討論是否加入顯示鹽度的功能，使得消費(fèi)者能夠據(jù)此判斷礦泉水是不是假冒產(chǎn)品。

Baidu is currently manufacturing a small batch of prototypes for testing. The company says it has not yet decided when to release the product or how much it will cost. Even so, it has already generated interest.

百度目前正在生產(chǎn)一小批用于測試的樣品。公司表示尚未決定這款產(chǎn)品的發(fā)布時(shí)間和價(jià)格。即便如此，它已經(jīng)激起了人們的興趣。

“With Baidu smart chopsticks, I don’t have to worry about gutter oil any more,” one person recently commented on Weibo, a Chinese microblog. “I will definitely buy one once it is on shelves.”

“有了百度的智能筷子，我就不用再擔(dān)心地溝油了，”新浪微博上的一名用戶前不久評(píng)論道。“一旦上架，我肯定會(huì)買一副。”

City dwellers can buy directly from farmers through Jutudi, a pilot program created by Alibaba that has about 10,000 users. An e-commerce twist on the “buy local” movement, Jutudi lets users buy regular deliveries of vegetables and fruits from farms across China. Consumers can even pick their own plots in a sort of virtual farming, although deliveries may come from multiple places.

通過阿里巴巴創(chuàng)立的試點(diǎn)項(xiàng)目“聚土地”，城市居民可以直接從農(nóng)民那里購買產(chǎn)品。該項(xiàng)目目前擁有大約一萬名用戶。它是電子商務(wù)特色的“當(dāng)?shù)叵M(fèi)”運(yùn)動(dòng)，能讓用戶從全國各地的農(nóng)場購買定期配送的蔬菜和水果。消費(fèi)者甚至還能在某種虛擬農(nóng)場中挑選自己的地盤，不過配送的產(chǎn)品可能來自多個(gè)地方。

Alibaba is tapping into consumers’ nostalgia for their rural roots with a heavy dose of marketing. The site features a Socialist Realist illustration of two women in a field of golden grain — harking back to the days of Mao Zedong, when farmers were lionized by propaganda. With images of shiny, red tomatoes, well-groomed pigs and other succulent fruits and vegetables, the program also promotes quality. Higher-end packages include tours of the farms.

阿里巴巴正在通過大舉營銷來挖掘消費(fèi)者對(duì)他們根在農(nóng)村的懷念之情。在聚土地網(wǎng)站的突出位置上，是一幅社會(huì)主義現(xiàn)實(shí)主義風(fēng)格的圖畫，表現(xiàn)的是兩名女子站在一片金黃的麥田中，讓人想起了農(nóng)民被宣傳成了名人的毛澤東時(shí)代。網(wǎng)站還對(duì)產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量進(jìn)行了宣傳，張貼了很多圖片，上面是紅得閃閃發(fā)亮的西紅柿、皮毛干凈的豬以及其他一些鮮美的水果和蔬菜。較為高端的套餐中包括參觀農(nóng)場的選項(xiàng)。

The idea of having one’s own plot of land is attractive to Jiang Hui, a 27-year-old web editor. Typical for her generation, Ms. Jiang goes online to buy just about everything, so produce was an easy next step.

自己有塊地這個(gè)概念，對(duì)27歲的網(wǎng)站編輯蔣慧頗具吸引力。她幾乎什么都是網(wǎng)購的。對(duì)她這一代人來說，這種情況很典型。因此，農(nóng)產(chǎn)品順理成章地成為了她的網(wǎng)購對(duì)象。

“The increasing number of food scandals is turning everyone into a food safety expert,” said Ms. Jiang, who lives with her parents in Beijing. “The more we read, the more scared we are and the more careful we are.”

“食品丑聞越來越多，把大家都變成了食品安全專家，”和父母生活在北京的蔣女士說。“我們看的文章越多，就越害怕，越謹(jǐn)慎。”

Alibaba has set ground rules for farmers. Farmers are required to separate the crops and treat them with lower amounts of pesticides.

阿里巴巴為農(nóng)民制定了基本規(guī)則，要求他們分開種植農(nóng)作物，并減少農(nóng)藥的用量。

“I am only allowed to spray pesticide on that piece of land once for every harvest. So I hire workers to pick pests by hand,” said Zhang Zhaohui, a 38-year-old farmer in the program. Samples of the mangoes are also independently tested before being shipped, he added.

“那塊地我每一季收成只能噴一次農(nóng)藥。所以我請了工人用手捉蟲，”參加該項(xiàng)目的37歲農(nóng)民張朝暉說。他還表示，裝運(yùn)前芒果樣品還要接受獨(dú)立檢測。

Despite the extra costs, Mr. Zhang says he makes more on the mangoes he sells to Jutudi. “To me, they all seem really rich,” Mr. Zhang said of the customers.

盡管會(huì)產(chǎn)生額外的成本，但張朝暉稱，賣給聚土地的芒果會(huì)讓他賺得更多。談到消費(fèi)者，他表示，“要我說，他們好像都真的很有錢。”

Joyvio is taking on a bigger challenge: the entire food chain.

佳沃集團(tuán)則在應(yīng)對(duì)更大的挑戰(zhàn)：整個(gè)食品供應(yīng)鏈。

Started in 2009, it is now the largest provider of kiwis and blueberries in China. It controls everything, picking what seeds are planted, then tracking and collecting data each step of the way.

佳沃集團(tuán)創(chuàng)立于2009年，現(xiàn)在是中國最大的獼猴桃和藍(lán)莓供應(yīng)商。它控制著一切工序，從挑選種子，到追蹤和搜集整個(gè)過程中每一步的數(shù)據(jù)。

Its nurseries are the stuff of science fiction. The room temperature and irrigation schedules are automatic and can be controlled remotely via a mobile phone or a computer. Seeds are grown in greenhouses, and plant tissue is cultivated in research labs.

它的育苗室像是來自科幻小說。室溫和灌溉計(jì)劃都是自動(dòng)的，并且能通過移動(dòng)電話或電腦遠(yuǎn)程控制。種子播撒在溫室里，植物組織則是在研究實(shí)驗(yàn)室里培育。

Taking a similar approach to Lenovo’s, Joyvio focused on acquiring technology and know-how to build its business.

佳沃采取了與聯(lián)想類似的方式，把精力主要放在了獲取技術(shù)和實(shí)踐來打造自己的業(yè)務(wù)上。