清洗、干燥、定型,然后重復。這是一個“健康”的頭發(fā)保養(yǎng)周期。看起來很簡單,但是沿著商店的理發(fā)通道走一走就會讓人不知所措。洗發(fā)水、護發(fā)素、護發(fā)膜、凝膠、摩絲、發(fā)膠——產(chǎn)品列表層出不窮。在21世紀的喧囂中,人們總是在尋找最大限度地利用時間和“黑客”生活(提高生活效率)的方法。輸入二合一洗發(fā)水和護發(fā)素。這些組合產(chǎn)品聲稱可以一次清潔和調(diào)理頭發(fā),每次都可以為您節(jié)省幾分鐘的淋浴時間。但它們真的對你的頭發(fā)健康有好處,還是會造成更多的傷害?
In order to achieve and maintain healthy hair, the American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends concentrating shampoo on the scalp, and then using a conditioner after every shampoo, focusing on the tips of the hair rather than the roots. While 2-in-1 products can save you both time and money, they are not the easiest products to formulate. In essence, they are two opposite products being combined into one.
為了達到并保持頭發(fā)健康,美國皮膚病學會建議將洗發(fā)水集中在頭皮上,然后在每次洗發(fā)后使用護發(fā)素,重點放在發(fā)尖而不是發(fā)根上。雖然二合一產(chǎn)品可以為您節(jié)省時間和金錢,但它們不是那么容易互相配合。從本質(zhì)上講,它們是兩個相反的產(chǎn)物結(jié)合在一起。
Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist, discussed with Allure the difficulty that comes with developing such products saying, "Trying to combine these two incompatible types of ingredients in one formula can result in a gunky, unpleasant product." This has led the beauty industry to invest significant money and time into proper formulation. Dobos went on to say that chemists "have developed unique ways to deliver conditioning ingredients from shampoos by optimizing ratios of these ingredients, or 'hiding' the conditioning agents and polymers in an emulsion that releases those ingredients when rinsing."
化妝品化學家凱利·多博斯(Kelly Dobos)滿懷誘惑地討論了開發(fā)這類產(chǎn)品的困難,她說,“試圖將這兩種不相容的成分組合在一個配方中,可能會生成一種粘乎乎的、令人不快的產(chǎn)品。”這導致美容行業(yè)投入大量資金和時間進行適當?shù)呐浞皆O計。多布斯接著說,化學家“已經(jīng)開發(fā)出獨特的方法,通過優(yōu)化這些成分的比例,或?qū)⒄{(diào)節(jié)劑和聚合物“隱藏”在乳液中,在沖洗時釋放這些成分,從而達到洗護合一的效果。”
Since both the shampoo and conditioning ingredients aren't as effective together as they are individually, you may notice some differences in your hair with chronic use. The biggest downside to using these 2-in-1 products is that they may lead to your mane becoming dull and flat, which is a result of product buildup. That buildup is usually due to the silicone ingredients. However, not all silicones are created equal.
由于洗發(fā)水和護發(fā)素混合使用時效果不如單獨使用時有效,長期使用后你可能會注意到頭發(fā)的一些變化。使用這兩種產(chǎn)品的最大缺點是,它們可能會導致你的秀發(fā)變得枯燥易斷,這是頭皮堵塞的結(jié)果。這種堵塞通常是由于硅油成分造成的。然而,并非所有的硅油都是一樣的。
"Good silicones," such as dimethicone copolyol, stearoxy dimethicone, and behenoxy dimethicone, gently coat each strand of hair, locking in moisture and protecting your mane from heat damage and pesky frizz (via Real Simple). These silicones are water-soluble, meaning they won't weigh your hair down or cause buildup. "Bad silicones," on the other hand, like dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, and cyclomethicone, still coat and protect your hair, but they do so at a cost. Over time they weigh hair down with buildup.
“好的硅油”,如二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、硬脂氧二甲基硅氧烷和二甲基硅氧烷,可以輕輕地涂在每根頭發(fā)上,鎖住水分,保護你的頭發(fā)免受熱損傷和惱人的卷曲。這些硅油是水溶性的,意味著它們不會使你的頭發(fā)變重或?qū)е骂^皮堵塞。另一方面,“壞的硅油”,比如二甲硅氧烷、十六烷基二甲基硅氧烷和環(huán)二甲基硅氧烷,雖然也會包裹和保護你的頭發(fā),但是有代價的。隨著時間的推移,頭皮堵塞越來越嚴重。
Hairstylist Angela Cardona told Real Simple, "Occasionally alternating to a clarifying or exfoliating shampoo rather than a conditioning shampoo will let you reap all the benefits of silicones without the unwanted buildup." So if you were thinking a 2-in-1 product would mean no other hair care products cluttering your shower caddy, think again.
發(fā)型師安吉拉·卡多納(Angela Cardona)對Real Simple說,“偶爾交替使用清潔或去角質(zhì)洗發(fā)水,而不是護發(fā)洗發(fā)水,可以讓你獲得硅油的所有好處,而不會產(chǎn)生不必要的積垢。”因此,如果你認為二合一產(chǎn)品就意味著沒有其他護發(fā)產(chǎn)品會弄亂你的淋浴盒,請三思。
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