埃及有世界上比較好的沙拉嗎?

埃及有世界上最好的沙拉嗎?

It's Wednesday afternoon in downtown Cairo, and the usual smorgasbord of humanity is going about its daily business. From sharp-suited businesspeople single-mindedly weaving through the capital's notorious traffic to young men on bicycles perching wooden trays of fresh bread on their heads. Everyone, it seems, has somewhere to be.

周三下午，在開(kāi)羅市中心，人們像往常一樣忙著自己的日常事務(wù)。西裝革履的商人目不旁視地穿梭于開(kāi)羅喧嘩吵鬧的交通人流中，騎自行車(chē)的年輕人把盛著新鮮面包的木托盤(pán)頂在頭上。每個(gè)人都在各自忙碌著。

Down a small alleyway in the Abdeen neighbourhood, I marvel at the graceful, 19th- to 20th-Century Belle Epoque stylings of a faded apartment building, the intricate balconies and wooden shutters offering a glimpse of life in this teeming city many decades ago.

沿著阿布迪恩(Abdeen)街區(qū)的一條小巷子走下去，能看到一棟褪了色的公寓樓，整體風(fēng)格十分優(yōu)雅，是19世紀(jì)至20世紀(jì)“美好時(shí)代”(Belle Epoque)的那種風(fēng)格，錯(cuò)落有致的陽(yáng)臺(tái)和木百葉窗讓我得以一瞥幾十年前這座熙熙攘攘的城市的生活。

Opposite sits a small, metal food cart. A counter runs around it, offering somewhere for patrons to hurriedly eat their meal, and tins of corned beef – used in sandwiches or mixed with eggs – are stacked with care and uniformity on the top shelf. Below are eggs, metal pots, bags of the nation's much-loved aish baladi (a type of whole-wheat flatbread) and a few plates containing taameya, Egypt's glorious, but underappreciated, version of falafel. Many food lovers rate it as the best falafel in the world.

公寓對(duì)面停著一輛小小的金屬餐車(chē)，周?chē)h(huán)繞著柜臺(tái)，顧客能在這兒匆忙用餐。柜臺(tái)最上面的架子上整齊堆放著罐頭腌牛肉(夾在三明治里或和雞蛋一起吃)，下面是雞蛋、金屬鍋和幾袋深受埃及人喜愛(ài)的全麥大餅，還有幾盤(pán)做好的沙拉三明治。這是埃及著名的沙拉三明治，但它的美味卻被低估了。許多美食愛(ài)好者認(rèn)為它是世界上最好吃的沙拉三明治。

The cart's owner, Amir, smiles beneath his greying moustache as he works. He removes taameya mix from a large metal bowl, forms it into small discs using his fingertips and drops them into boiling oil. His hands are almost a blur; each disc takes about a second to make.

餐車(chē)的主人阿米爾胡子灰白，工作時(shí)面帶微笑。他從一個(gè)大的金屬碗里取出沙拉三明治配料，用指尖搓成小圓球，然后放進(jìn)滾燙的油鍋里。他的手快得像翻飛中的影子，搓一個(gè)圓球大約只需要一秒鐘的時(shí)間。

A few minutes later I'm presented with the finished article: piping hot taameya served inside aish baladi with nothing more than tomatoes, lettuce and a drizzle of tahini. On the side sit crunchy pickled vegetables in a riot of colours – the highlight of which is whole green chillies caked in chilli powder, cumin and salt. The medium-hot chilli adds a welcome bite to proceedings, yet is offset by the bitter nuttiness of the attendant cumin.

幾分鐘后，我就看到了成品：全麥面餅包著滾燙的沙拉三明治，里面有西紅柿、生菜和少量的芝麻醬，旁邊放著各色的腌菜，脆脆的，最引人注目的是綠色的辣椒，上面撒著辣椒粉、孜然和鹽。適中的辣味讓口感更好，但隨之而來(lái)的孜然味又很好的中和了辣味。

The taameya sandwich is a lesson in perfect simplicity. Nearby countries such as Syria and Lebanon have a reputation for incorporating greater flair into their falafel sandwiches, experimenting with different fillings and sauces, such as coleslaw, tomato herb salad and pickled turnips. These no doubt have their place but, in my opinion, they'd be hard-pressed to beat the Egyptian version. In fact, falafel cooked by Egyptian fast-casual chain Zooba won 'best falafel' at 2016's London Falafel Festival in Borough Market, beating Palestinian-Lebanese competitors and leading to more 'best in the world' talk.

沙拉三明治完美體現(xiàn)了簡(jiǎn)約的風(fēng)格。敘利亞和黎巴嫩等鄰近國(guó)家，將更多的風(fēng)味融入沙拉三明治并因此而聞名，他們嘗試了不同的餡料和醬料，比如涼拌卷心菜、番茄香草沙拉和腌蘿卜。這些嘗試都有獨(dú)特的味道，但在我看來(lái)，它們很難與埃及版沙拉三明治相比。事實(shí)上，埃及快餐連鎖店Zooba烹制的沙拉三明治，在2016年倫敦博羅市場(chǎng)沙拉三明治節(jié)上，就擊敗了來(lái)自巴勒斯坦和黎巴嫩的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手，贏得了"最佳沙拉三明治"的稱號(hào)，并引發(fā)了更多關(guān)于“世界最佳”的討論。

Much of that is thanks to a certain idiosyncrasy in the way Egyptians make their falafel. Gone are the chickpeas so ubiquitous in most other countries; here, the main ingredient is broad beans, which fry better and result in a lighter, fluffier take on the popular snack. Along with garlic, onion and coriander seeds, the Egyptian mix also incorporates a greater number of fresh herbs and vegetables – such as parsley, coriander and leeks – than its neighbours', producing a pale green interior and greater depth of flavour.

這種成功要?dú)w于埃及人制作沙拉三明治的特殊方式。鷹嘴豆在大多數(shù)國(guó)家已經(jīng)消失得無(wú)影無(wú)蹤。在埃及，沙拉三明治的主要成分是蠶豆，而且炸得更好、更蓬松，是當(dāng)?shù)亓餍械男〕?。除了洋蔥、大蒜和香菜籽，相比起鄰國(guó)，埃及的沙拉三明治加入了更多新鮮蔬菜和草本植物，比如：歐芹、香菜和韭菜，使得三明治看起來(lái)更翠綠，味道也更濃郁。

"I totally agree that the best falafel in the world comes from Egypt, and I've certainly told people who went to Egypt that," said Claudia Roden, the famed culinary anthropologist and serial Middle Eastern cookbook author. "It's all down to the taste and texture. I think broad beans… have a better texture than chickpeas, because they're softer and creamier, plus the Egyptian version has more herbs, which makes it greener. I think the overall flavouring is much better."

著名的烹飪學(xué)家、中東烹飪書(shū)籍系列作家羅登(Claudia Roden)說(shuō)：“我完全同意，世界最好的沙拉三明治來(lái)自埃及，我肯定也告訴過(guò)去過(guò)埃及的人。這完全取決于口味和質(zhì)地。我覺(jué)得蠶豆比鷹嘴豆的口感更好，因?yàn)樗鼈兏彳浘d滑，而且埃及的沙拉三明治里的蔬菜更多，看起來(lái)更翠綠。整體口味要好得多。”

The Egyptian love affair with broad beans – also known as fava beans – runs deep. Along with taameya and bread, the country's other staple dish is ful medames, in which broad beans are stewed for more than 12 hours and mixed with garlic, olive oil, cumin and lemon juice. Taameya and ful medames are primarily breakfast dishes, though their unswerving popularity means they are often consumed at any time of day.

埃及人對(duì)蠶豆的喜愛(ài)由來(lái)已久。除了沙拉三明治和面包，埃及的另一道主食是富爾-梅達(dá)梅斯(ful medames)。這道菜要把蠶豆燉足12個(gè)小時(shí)，并與大蒜、橄欖油、孜然和檸檬汁混合。埃及人主要是早餐吃沙拉三明治和富爾-梅達(dá)梅斯，但當(dāng)?shù)厝藢?shí)在是太喜歡吃這兩種東西了，即使不是早餐也會(huì)吃。

In his book, Beans: A History, food historian Ken Albala writes that eating broad beans in Egypt "seems to be a conscious act of nationalism. Ful medames is an expression of identity for modern Egyptians who choose to resist the onslaught of contemporary breakfast foods; it is a way to remember who they are."

食品歷史學(xué)家阿爾巴拉(Ken Albala)在他的著作《豆子的歷史》(Beans: A History)中寫(xiě)道，在埃及吃蠶豆“似乎是一種有意識(shí)的民族主義行為”。吃富爾梅達(dá)梅斯是現(xiàn)代埃及人表達(dá)身份的一種方式，以抵制現(xiàn)代早餐帶來(lái)的沖擊。也是一種記住他們是誰(shuí)的方式。"

Exactly when and why the broad bean took hold in Egypt, while most of its neighbours became enamoured with the chickpea, remains something of a mystery.

蠶豆究竟是何時(shí)以及為何在埃及生根發(fā)芽的至今仍是一個(gè)謎，埃及周邊的鄰國(guó)卻對(duì)鷹嘴豆情有獨(dú)鐘。

Both ingredients feature in a medieval Egyptian cookbook titled Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook, though the chickpea surprisingly features in more recipes.

這兩種食材都出現(xiàn)在一本中世紀(jì)埃及烹飪書(shū)中，書(shū)名為《餐桌上的寶藏：一本四世紀(jì)的埃及食譜》(Treasure trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: a four - century Egyptian cookbook)，但出人意料的是鷹嘴豆的出現(xiàn)頻率更高。

Nawal Nasrallah, the researcher and food writer who translated the book into English, speculates that this is due to chickpeas being considered a higher-class ingredient at that time. Broad beans were seen as a poor man's food, and, in medieval times as today, cookbook authors would have wanted to show off their most elegant dishes.

納斯魯拉(Nawal Nasrallah)是把這本書(shū)翻譯成英文的研究人員和美食作家。他推測(cè)，這是因?yàn)辁椬於乖诋?dāng)時(shí)被認(rèn)為是一種高級(jí)食材，蠶豆則被視為窮人的食物。不管是在中世紀(jì)還是今天，烹飪書(shū)的作者都想炫耀他們優(yōu)雅的菜肴。

Although both ingredients do feature in most regional cuisines, she said that Egypt's subsequent embrace of broad beans over chickpeas could simply be down to availability.

雖然這兩種食材在多數(shù)地方菜系中都出現(xiàn)過(guò)，但她說(shuō)，埃及后來(lái)之所以更喜歡蠶豆而不是鷹嘴豆，可能只是因?yàn)樾Q豆更易獲得。

"I think it depends on what you have and what grows abundantly… I think chickpeas are more abundant in the Levant, which why they use them. Whereas from ancient times, broad beans were used more in northern Africa… It's all about economics. It's cheap, it's available. In fact, they say that broad beans are 'the kebab of the poor'."

“我認(rèn)為這取決于擁有的資源，以及哪些食材長(zhǎng)得更茂盛，鷹嘴豆在黎凡特地區(qū)更充足，這就是為什么他們要用鷹嘴豆。然而從古代開(kāi)始，北非地區(qū)更多使用蠶豆，這一切都與經(jīng)濟(jì)有關(guān)。蠶豆很便宜且更容易買(mǎi)到。生活中人們常說(shuō)蠶豆是窮人的烤肉串。”

This link to ancient Egypt is regularly cited as key to the broad bean's enduring popularity in the country. Everyday Egyptians will trumpet ful medames and taameya as 'the food of the pharaohs' – there are widely cited records of broad bean traces being found in ancient tombs and claims that paintings from ancient Egyptian times show people cooking taameya.

與古埃及的聯(lián)系，被認(rèn)為是蠶豆在埃及經(jīng)久不衰的關(guān)鍵。埃及人每天都會(huì)把豐盛的富爾梅達(dá)梅斯和沙拉三明治作為“法老的食物”來(lái)大肆宣揚(yáng)。人們?cè)诠拍怪邪l(fā)現(xiàn)的蠶豆痕跡被廣泛引用，并聲稱古埃及時(shí)代流傳下來(lái)的繪畫(huà)顯示人們那時(shí)就會(huì)做沙拉三明治了。

However, Mennat-Allah El Dorry, an Egyptologist and archaeobotanist at the University of Warsaw in Poland, has serious doubts about these assertions. She believes the broad beans found at ancient Egyptian sites were most likely modern contaminations; that the workmen on site at the excavations, some of which took place 100 years ago when methodologies were less stringent, could well have been eating ful medames and the beans found their way into the archaeological sites.

然而，波蘭華沙大學(xué)的埃及古物學(xué)家和考古學(xué)家埃爾多里(Mennat-Allah El Dorry)對(duì)這些說(shuō)法表示懷疑。她認(rèn)為：在古埃及遺址發(fā)現(xiàn)的蠶豆可能是由于現(xiàn)代的污染，挖掘現(xiàn)場(chǎng)的工人很可能吃了大量的富爾梅達(dá)梅斯，而這些豆子也進(jìn)入了考古遺址。其中一些挖掘工作發(fā)生在100年前，當(dāng)時(shí)的考古方法還沒(méi)那么嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)。

"Then, later, they come find it again and think: 'Oh, good, we have ancient Egyptian ful'," she said. "I think it wasn't until Roman times that it started becoming more common… By the Roman times you start to get broad beans much more commonly on archaeological sites and, as time goes by, by medieval Egypt, you have broad beans appearing archaeobotanically much more often."

她說(shuō)：“后來(lái)，他們?cè)诠拍怪邪l(fā)現(xiàn)了這些食物，然后想：'哦，太好了，我們?cè)诠虐＜皶r(shí)代就有富爾梅達(dá)梅斯了。'我認(rèn)為，直到羅馬時(shí)代，蠶豆才開(kāi)始變得普遍，在羅馬時(shí)代，蠶豆在考古遺址上出現(xiàn)的頻率要高得多。隨著時(shí)間的推移，到了中世紀(jì)的埃及，蠶豆在考古植物學(xué)上出現(xiàn)的頻率也很高。”

The beans have also been found in places that don't make sense, such as a fifth-dynasty (2465-2325 BCE) royal funerary setting in Abu Sir on the outskirts of Cairo. "There is absolutely no reason for broad beans to be there – it's not a settlement context and it's not a funerary food offering, so I'm very doubtful of the finds of broad beans in ancient Egypt," El Dorry said.

人們還在一些不該出現(xiàn)的地方發(fā)現(xiàn)了這些豆子，比如第五王朝(公元前2465年至2325年)在開(kāi)羅郊區(qū)阿布爵士舉行的皇家葬禮上。埃爾多里說(shuō)：“蠶豆絕對(duì)沒(méi)有理由出現(xiàn)在那里，因?yàn)槟抢锊皇且粋€(gè)種植點(diǎn)，也不是葬禮上的食物，所以我對(duì)在古埃及發(fā)現(xiàn)的蠶豆非常懷疑。”

As for the ancient paintings, scholars have since questioned the original publication and say the 'broad beans' depicted were more likely to have been tiger nuts, also known as chufa, a tuber that is believed to have been a staple in ancient Egypt.

至于那些古畫(huà)，學(xué)者們對(duì)原始版本提出了質(zhì)疑，稱這些"蠶豆"更有可能是虎堅(jiān)果，也被稱為“chufa”，被認(rèn)為是古埃及主食的塊莖。

What is in less doubt is the ferocity of the debate over the origins – and mastery – of falafel. Lebanon, the Palestinian Territories, Syria and Egypt have all claimed to be its rightful 'home', while Israel has labelled it a national dish and firmly bound it to the country's national identity.

但不容置疑的是，各國(guó)對(duì)于沙拉三明治所有權(quán)的爭(zhēng)奪十分激烈。黎巴嫩、巴勒斯坦、敘利亞和埃及都聲稱是其合法的"家園"，而以色列則將其列為一道國(guó)菜，并將其與該國(guó)的民族身份緊密聯(lián)系在一起。

In her book, Falafel Nation: Cuisine and the Making of National Identity in Israel, Yael Raviv writes that "Food is constantly implicated in economic and political processes, as well as in social and historical processes… Because of the recent events in the Middle East, even something as innocent looking as a ground chickpea ball can be used as a weapon of sorts."

雷維夫(Yael Raviv)在她的書(shū)中《沙拉三明治的國(guó)家：以色列美食以及國(guó)家認(rèn)同》寫(xiě)道：“食品不斷滲透進(jìn)經(jīng)濟(jì)和政治領(lǐng)域，以及社會(huì)和歷史的進(jìn)程中，因?yàn)樽罱谥袞|發(fā)生的事件，連無(wú)辜的鷹嘴豆球都可以被用作武器。”

Standing at his food cart in a green football shirt under a blue Nike jacket, Amir gesticulates enthusiastically when discussing his country's take on falafel. He's been serving it the Egyptian way for 48 years, he said.

身穿綠色足球衫、藍(lán)色耐克夾克的阿米爾站在他的餐車(chē)旁，興致勃勃地比劃著手勢(shì)，談?wù)撍膰?guó)家對(duì)沙拉三明治的看法。他說(shuō)，他已經(jīng)賣(mài)了48年埃及版本的沙拉三明治了。

"People who try the Egyptian style made with [broad] beans always like the taste, but those who eat it with hommos [chickpeas] just have to get used to it. Since the pharaonic times, we have been planting [broad] beans, not hommos," he said, once again espousing the possibly misguided belief that broad beans have been eaten here since ancient Egyptian times.

“嘗試用蠶豆做埃及菜的人喜歡這種口味，但喜歡鷹嘴豆的人必須習(xí)慣這種味道。自法老時(shí)代以來(lái)，我們就一直在種植(蠶豆)，而不是鷹嘴豆。”他再次對(duì)這種可能被誤導(dǎo)的觀點(diǎn)表示支持，即人們從古埃及時(shí)代起就開(kāi)始吃蠶豆了。

While there's debate as to the origins of broad beans, most modern historians tend to agree that falafel was indeed likely born in Egypt. It has been traced to the country's Coptic Christians, who used it to replace meat during Lent. Such dishes were known as 'muzawwarat', which means 'counterfeit dishes', because they did not contain meat.

雖然對(duì)于蠶豆的起源存在爭(zhēng)議，但大多數(shù)現(xiàn)代歷史學(xué)家認(rèn)為，沙拉三明治很可能誕生于埃及。它可以追溯到這個(gè)國(guó)家的科普特基督徒，他們?cè)谒难S期間用它來(lái)代替肉。這些菜肴被稱為“muzawwarat”，意思是“菜”，因?yàn)樗鼈儾缓狻?/p>

While Nasrallah agrees falafel is likely to have originated in Egypt, she feels the whole discussion has become too politicised.

盡管納斯魯拉認(rèn)為沙拉三明治可能起源于埃及，但她覺(jué)得整個(gè)討論已經(jīng)變得過(guò)于政治化了。

"I don't tend to think of food in this narrow, nationalistic way," she said. "Of course, the Israelis adopted it as one of the national dishes, but I don't think dishes can be owned… I think food belongs to a region."

她說(shuō)：“我不傾向于用狹隘的、民族主義的方式來(lái)看待食物。雖然以色列人把它作為國(guó)家菜肴之一，但我不認(rèn)為菜肴是可以擁有的，我認(rèn)為食物屬于一個(gè)地區(qū)。”

Most would agree that food is far too subjective for definitives like 'best in the world', but the brisk business being done by hundreds of taameya vendors all over Cairo testifies that Egyptians are in little doubt over the eminence of their broad bean-based formula. And as I bit through the doughy aish baladi bread to discover the toothsome crunch within, I found it hard to disagree.

大多數(shù)人會(huì)覺(jué)得用“世界上最好的”這樣的措辭來(lái)定義食物太主觀了，但開(kāi)羅各地?cái)?shù)百家沙拉三明治商鋪的蓬勃發(fā)展證明，埃及人毫不懷疑這種以豆子為基礎(chǔ)配方的食物的卓越地位。當(dāng)我咬著松軟的全麥面包，聽(tīng)著里面嘎吱嘎吱的清脆聲音時(shí)，我發(fā)現(xiàn)確實(shí)對(duì)此很難表示異議。