意大利的時髦精品店開進紐約城

點擊查看 時尚英語 更多精彩內容

There were pedestrians ambling and drinkers drinking alfresco on the warm June day that Carla Sozzani stood outside what would shortly become 10 Corso Como New York, the American outpost of her pioneering Italian concept shop. That descriptor, now common for boutiques that stock not only fashion, but also art, furniture, books and whatever else tickles their proprietors, could well have been coined for hers. (According to her, it was.)

今年6月的一個溫暖日子里，行人在街頭漫步，飲客在戶外喝酒，卡拉·索珊尼(Carla Sozzani)站在不久會成為10 Corso Como紐約店的建筑外，這是她的先鋒性意大利概念店在美國打出的前站。概念店這種描述如今常用于某些精品店，這些店不只賣時裝，也出售藝術品、家具、書籍，以及所有讓店家感興趣的產品，這個叫法完全可能是為她的店創(chuàng)造的。(據她說，的確是。)

“It has the feel of an Italian piazza, no?” Ms. Sozzani said on a site visit to New York, looking out toward the water. “I hope it stays like this.”

“這里有一種意大利城鎮(zhèn)廣場的感覺，不是嗎?”索珊尼在一次來紐約實地考察時說，她眼望著東河。“我希望保持這個樣子。”

But we were at the South Street Seaport — cobblestoned, yes, but not often imagined as Italianate — a New York landmark that has had many lives: bustling port, scrubby artists’ community, hurricane victim, tourist trap. Ms. Sozzani’s store is part of its continuing transformation.

不過，我們是在南街海港(South Street Seaport)——路面是鵝卵石的，這沒錯，但并不常讓人想起意大利風格。這個紐約地標有過許多前世：繁忙的港口、寒酸的藝術家社區(qū)，遭受過颶風的侵襲，也是敲游客竹杠的地方。索珊尼的店是這里不斷轉變的一部分。

10 Corso Como is to be one of the tent poles of the new new Seaport, which its developer, the Howard Hughes Corporation, hopes to coax into a hub of culture and commerce in New York City.

10 Corso Como將成為新海港的頂梁柱之一，開發(fā)商霍華德·休斯公司希望把這里打造成紐約市的一處文化商業(yè)中心。

The company is betting on Ms. Sozzani as one of the new local attractions to do the pulling. Its chief executive, David R. Weinreb, spent five years courting her, and the developer is a partner with her on the store.

公司把賭注押在索珊尼身上，希望她的店會成為吸引人氣的當地新景點之一。公司首席執(zhí)行官大衛(wèi)·R·溫瑞布(David R. Weinreb)用了五年的時間爭取她來開店，這家開發(fā)商與她是商店的共同合伙人。

“She was initially not interested in opening a store in New York,” Mr. Weinreb said. “There were dozens of calls to her.” With the store now about to open, Mr. Weinreb added, he is confident “Carla will in fact be the pillar that we wanted in the area.” (The company declined to comment on the terms of the partnership, though Hughes has been known to subsidize rent for its commercial tenants.)

“她最初沒興趣來紐約開店，”溫瑞布說。“給她打過幾十個電話。”如今商店開張在即，溫瑞布補充說，他對“卡拉將實際上成為我們在這片地區(qū)所希望的頂梁柱”充滿信心。(公司拒絕就合伙關系條款置評，但以前有過休斯為其商業(yè)租戶提供租金補貼的情況。)

Ms. Sozzani’s original 10 Corso Como — at number 10 Corso Como, in a former garage in the Porta Nuova neighborhood of Milan — opened in 1991, and in the 27 years since, it has become a much imitated blueprint for high-end retail. The store sells luxury fashion from Prada, Gucci, Dior and Comme des Garçons, along with artists’ editions and ceramics.

索珊尼最初的那家10 Corso Como于1991年開業(yè)，店址是科摩大道(Corso Como)10號，位于米蘭新港(Porta Nuova)街區(qū)以前的一個車庫里。在那以后的27年中，這家店已成為一個被高端零售業(yè)廣為模仿的藍本。店里出售普拉達(Prada)、古馳(Gucci)、迪奧(Dior)和Comme des Garcons品牌的奢侈時裝，藝術家版本的書籍，以及陶瓷制品。

Ms. Sozzani had been a magazine editor before opening the store — she was famously fired from the Italian edition of Elle — and considered her store a kind of living magazine. It was a place to browse and linger as well as to buy. (She put chairs everywhere for the purpose.)

開店前，索珊尼曾在一家雜志擔任編輯——她被意大利版《ELLE》雜志解雇的事兒挺有名的——她把自己的店看作是一種活的雜志。除了買東西，店里也是讓人瀏覽、逗留的地方。(為了這個目的，她的店里到處都擺著座椅。)

The store opened around the time of the Slow Food movement, and Ms. Sozzani envisioned a slow shopping. 10 Corso Como began life as a photography gallery, and now includes a bookstore, a cafe and restaurant, and an on-site, three-room hotel.

這家店的開業(yè)正逢慢食運動興起之時，索珊尼想到了慢購物。米蘭的10 Corso Como最初是以一個攝影作品陳列室開始的，現在它包括一個書店、一個咖啡館和餐廳，以及一個三間客房的酒店。

“Today, it’s so obvious,” Ms. Sozzani said. “At the beginning, it was difficult. People did not really know what it was.” Her store, set back from the main drag of the promenade, had no windows on the street. Its front courtyard was a garden.

“今天，這顯而易見，”索珊尼說。“開始的時候很困難。人們不明白它到底是什么東西。”她的店設在遠離最繁華的步行大道的地方，也沒有臨街的窗戶。店的前院是個花園。

Fashion can be a racy business, in speed and in sensuality, but Ms. Sozzani, 71, with her whitened blonde curls and immaculate wardrobe, has calmly and cannily lasted out the tidal cycles of trend and counter-trend. In a moment of click-to-buy instantaneity, Ms. Sozzani looks like a luxury abbess, a lone beacon of calm.

時尚可能是碗青春飯，講速度，拼感官，但是，梳著泛白的金色卷發(fā)、一身干凈利落打扮的71歲的索珊尼，已淡定且精明地度過了幾輪流行與逆流行的潮流起伏。在這個點擊購買的即時性時代，索珊尼看上去像是一位奢侈品的女修院院長，一座孤零零的坦然自若的燈塔。

From its roots in Italy, 10 Corso Como has unfurled widely. There are branches around the world, in Shanghai, Beijing and Seoul; the 28,000-square-foot Seaport shop, which opens Sept. 7, is the first in the United States.

10 Corso Como已經從其意大利的根基慢慢發(fā)展為分布極廣的連鎖店。分店開到了世界各地，上海、北京、首爾都有;9月7日開張的面積為2.8萬平方英尺的海港店，是美國的第一家。

It sits all on one floor, where books run seamlessly into tchotchkes into high-end fashion into a gallery space, which will have a separate entrance. For the opening, Ms. Sozzani is showing photography by Helmut Newton and a lighting installation — for sale — by Michael Anastassiades.

全店只占一個樓層，店里展示的東西不知不覺地從書籍過渡到小擺設，再到高端時裝，再到一個畫廊，畫廊還有一個單獨的入口。索珊尼在開業(yè)儀式上展出了赫爾穆特·牛頓(Helmut Newton)的攝影作品，以及邁克爾·阿納斯塔西亞德斯(Michael Anastassiades)的一件燈具裝置——這件可以出售。

Like its brethren, this 10 Corso Como includes a restaurant and bar. And as with all the Corso Comos, Ms. Sozzani’s partner, Kris Ruhs, has decorated the space with the usual sunburst motifs and scribbly 10 Corso Como logo, with hand-wrought tiles and mosaics, and vases of the glass flowers that signal that, wherever in the world one is, one is still in Ms. Sozzani’s garden.

與其他分店一樣，這家10 Corso Como也包括一個餐廳和酒吧。同所有其他店鋪一樣，索珊尼的合作伙伴克里斯·魯斯(Kris Ruhs)給店內做了裝飾，他照例用了云開日出的圖案和信手寫下的10 Corso Como店標，并用手工瓷磚和馬賽克、以及一個插著玻璃花的花瓶來表明，不管你在世界上什么地方，你仍待在索珊尼的花園里。

Whether this will be enough of a draw to lure New York’s luxury shoppers off Madison Avenue and out of SoHo is a potent question. The Hughes Corporation has invested significant energy and resources into rebuilding the area, which was battered by Hurricane Sandy in 2012, and also seems intent on scrubbing away the memory of its prior life as a grubbier sort of mall and out-of-towners’ entertainment.

這是否足以把紐約的奢侈品購買者從麥迪遜大街、從蘇荷區(qū)吸引過來，是個強有力的問題。休斯公司投入了巨大的能量和資源來重建這片在2012年飽受颶風“桑迪”摧殘的地區(qū)，公司似乎還打算洗刷人們對這個地區(qū)前世的記憶，這里曾有過更簡陋的商場，是外地人消遣的地方。

“Over the years, the district has been loved by New Yorkers, but it really became a tourist trap,” said Saul Scherl, the president of the New York Tri-State Region for Howard Hughes.

“這個地區(qū)多年來一直受到紐約人的喜愛，但它的確成了一個敲游客竹杠的地方。”霍華德·休斯公司紐約三州都會區(qū)總裁索爾·舍爾(Saul Scherl)說。

Further openings are well underway, part of a rebranding of the area that Howard Hughes hopes will draw foot traffic and, ultimately, more commercial tenants. (Plans for a residential tower were scrapped in 2015 after an outcry from the community.)

還有更多店鋪將陸續(xù)開張，這都是重建地區(qū)品牌工作的一部分，霍華德·休斯希望以此吸引更多人流量，從而最終吸引來更多的商業(yè)租戶。(本來還有蓋一座高層住宅樓的計劃，遭當地社區(qū)抗議之后，于2015年取消。)

“By 2020, we’ll have approximately 70 percent more retail than we had in 2014,” said Jessica Lappin, the president of the Downtown Alliance, whose territory, south of Chambers Street, includes the Seaport.

“到2020年，我們的零售額將比2014年大約增長70%，”下城聯盟主席杰西卡·拉平(Jessica Lappin)說，下城聯盟的轄區(qū)為錢伯斯街(Chambers Street)以南，包括海港。

Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP Collection store is under construction opposite 10 Corso Como, and a Roberto Cavalli boutique will open next door to a Big Gay Ice Cream shop soon. Mr. C Seaport, a boutique hotel run by Maggio and Ignazio Cipriani, the younger generation of the famous Cipriani hospitality family, opened its doors in July.

10 Corso Como對面，莎拉·杰西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)的SJP Collection門店正在施工，Big Gay冰激凌店隔壁很快要開張一家Roberto Cavalli精品店。7月開業(yè)的C先生海港酒店(Mr. C Seaport)是一家精品酒店，由招待性行業(yè)著名的奇普里亞尼家族的年輕一代、馬吉奧與伊尼亞齊奧·奇普里亞尼(Maggio and Ignazio Cipriani)經營。

“When I moved in, there was literally nothing in the area,” said Ignazio Cipriani, who lived for 10 years in the nearby financial district.

“我剛搬到這里時，這一帶真的什么都沒有，”伊尼亞齊奧·奇普里亞尼說，他在附近的金融區(qū)住過十年。

For all that, the area is still off the beaten track for many, as Aurora James, the founder and creative director of Brother Vellies, a made-in-Africa designer accessories label, learned when she teamed with Howard Hughes to open a shop on Fulton Street in 2014.

雖然如此，這個地區(qū)對許多人來說仍很偏僻，正如奧羅拉·詹姆斯(Aurora James)2014年與霍華德·休斯合作在富爾頓街(Fulton Street)開店時發(fā)現的那樣，詹姆斯是非洲制造的設計配飾品牌Brother Vellies的創(chuàng)始人兼創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)。

“The initial reaction when I would say the South Street Seaport was confusion and shock,” Ms. James said about the location for a brand like hers. The most frequent visitors, she added, were “tourists that came in smelling like Abercrombie and Fitch.”

“說起南街海港，我的第一反應是不知所措，并有點吃驚，”詹姆斯提到把自己品牌的這種商店建在該地時說。她補充說，這里最常見的顧客是，“進來時一身都是Abercrombie & Fitch氣味的觀光客。”

Ms. James closed her shop earlier this year and relocated to the Greenpoint section of Brooklyn.

今年早些時候，詹姆斯關了這家店，搬到了布魯克林的綠點區(qū)(Greenpoint)。

“I was so grateful for that to be a community and world for us for a certain time,” she said of the Seaport area. “But, ultimately, I need to be in an authentically creative area, which is why I moved to Brooklyn.”

“我對把那里作為我們的社區(qū)、我們的天地的那段時間充滿感激之心，”她提到海港區(qū)時說。“但說到底，我需要到一個真實創(chuàng)意的地區(qū)去，所以我搬到布魯克林來了。”

Could Ms. Sozzani change that perception? The Hughes Corporation hopes so, and she herself is stretching out of her usual comfort zone to try.

索珊尼能改變這種看法嗎?休斯公司希望她能，她本人也在為進行嘗試拓廣到自己通常的舒適區(qū)外。

“I was very close to Azzedine Alaïa, and he used to say, ‘Every day I learn something. I am a debutante, every day,’” she said. “That’s the way it should be.”

“我和阿瑟丁·阿拉亞(Azzedine Alaïa)很熟，他曾經說，‘每天我都學到一些東西。每天我都是初出茅廬，’”她說。“就應該是這樣。”