男士改良工裝褲 實(shí)用又時(shí)尚

MIKE TROIANO NEEDED to get something off hischest, and he went to social media to do it. In arecent Instagram post, the CMO of Waltham, Mass.-based tech company Actifio announced to theworld, with a mix of liberation and mourning:'Retiring Bigass Suburban Dad Cargo Shorts.Godspeed, old friend. #itssohardtosaygoodbye.' Theaccompanying photo showed a forlorn andweathered pair of olive cargo shorts. The pocketssagged like old skin, clearly distressed from years ofcarrying, as Mr. Troiano told me, 'anything smallerthan a toaster.'

邁克·特羅亞諾(Mike Troiano)有心事要傾吐，于是他去了社交媒體上發(fā)帖子。在最近的一個(gè)Instagram帖子上，這位馬薩諸塞州沃爾瑟姆市(Waltham)科技公司Actifio的首席營(yíng)銷(xiāo)長(zhǎng)帶著既解脫又哀痛的情緒向世界宣布：“大號(hào)‘鄉(xiāng)下老爸’的工裝短褲要退休了。祝你好運(yùn)，老朋友。#itssohardtosaygoodbye(想說(shuō)再見(jiàn)太難)。”配的照片是一條可憐的、飽經(jīng)風(fēng)霜的橄欖色工裝短褲。下垂的口袋就像是衰老的皮膚，顯然是遭受了多年裝東西的折磨。正如特羅亞諾告訴我的：“只要是比烤面包機(jī)小的東西都會(huì)往里塞。”

Like many men, myself included, Mr. Troiano, 47, responded to the cargo craze of the 1990s,when the military-inspired shorts and pants were introduced as casual wear for civilians. Cutabove the knee, they were 'the manliest shorts out there,' Mr. Troiano said. As pants, theywere rough, tough and workable for carpenters, adventurers and ordinary men who justneeded to carry more stuff.

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal,Styling by Anne CardenasDockers“阿爾法修身工裝褲”，售價(jià)68美元，urbanoutfitters.com有售。和許多男士(包括我在內(nèi))一樣，47歲的特羅亞諾也對(duì)1990年代的工裝熱做出了積極響應(yīng)。當(dāng)時(shí)這種靈感來(lái)自軍服的短褲和長(zhǎng)褲首次被作為休閑裝向普通人推廣。特羅亞諾說(shuō)，那時(shí)這種長(zhǎng)度到膝蓋上方的短褲“是最有男人味的短褲”。長(zhǎng)褲則比較粗糙耐穿，木匠和冒險(xiǎn)家能穿，也適合需要裝更多東西的普通人。

At some point, however, Mr. Troiano decided the baggy cargo look was no longer appropriate.They were a 'stage-of-life' pant, he said, and he was well beyond his undergraduate days. Hisreaction isn't entirely uncommon-particularly among men who associate the look with sloppycollegiate bros burdened by bloated pockets.

不過(guò)，從某個(gè)時(shí)候開(kāi)始，特羅亞諾覺(jué)得這種寬松的工裝風(fēng)格不再適合了。他說(shuō)，這種褲子只適合某個(gè)階段，而他早就過(guò)了大學(xué)生的年紀(jì)了。他的反應(yīng)并不罕見(jiàn)——尤其是把這種風(fēng)格與口袋塞得鼓鼓的散漫的大學(xué)男生聯(lián)系起來(lái)的男性。

But there may be life in those pockets yet. 'If you asked us if cargo pants were stylish just afew seasons back, we would have answered with a resounding, 'No,' ' wrote the editors atEsquire on the magazine's site in 2012. In the next sentence, however, they confessed tochanging their tune. As well they should: In the past couple of years, the cargo hasexperienced a complete reputation rehab to become one of the most stylish and versatilego-to pieces of a man's wardrobe.

不過(guò)這種褲子或許還有一定的生命力?！稌r(shí)尚先生》(Esquire)雜志編輯2012年在其網(wǎng)站上寫(xiě)道：“如果幾年前你問(wèn)我們工裝褲是不是時(shí)髦，我們的回答肯定是否。”但是在接下來(lái)那句話(huà)中，他們卻承認(rèn)他們的態(tài)度正在改變。他們確實(shí)也應(yīng)該改變：這幾年來(lái)，工裝褲經(jīng)歷了一次徹底的名譽(yù)修復(fù)，成為了男士衣櫥里最時(shí)尚也最百搭的單品之一。

This spring you can find debonair cargo pants from labels like Michael Bastian, Todd Snyder,Ovadia & Sons, Balmain and Michael Kors. Even Dockers, which reported that its sales ofcargoes have grown in the past year, this spring introduced a trimmer and more stylish pair,called the Alpha Slim-Fit Cargo.

從左至右依次為：瑞格布恩、Ovadia & Sons、拉夫•勞倫黑標(biāo)(Ralph Lauren Black Label)今年春季，你能找到來(lái)自邁克爾·巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian)、托德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)、Ovadia &Sons、巴爾曼(Balmain)以及邁克爾·科斯(Michael Kors)等品牌的優(yōu)雅工裝褲。就連Dockers今年春季都推出了一款更時(shí)尚的修身工裝褲，名為“阿爾法修身工裝褲”(Alpha Slim-Fit Cargo)。據(jù)報(bào)道，Dockers去年工裝褲的銷(xiāo)量有所增長(zhǎng)。

These new styles have evolved greatly from the original '90s cargo, which had a Rambo-in-Passaic look. 'These aren't college-fit cargoes that are baggy and beyond,' said Michael Kors.'Ours are polished with a cleaner fit. I wear cargoes all the time.'

這些新款式是從最初90年代軍裝痕跡比較明顯的款式演變而來(lái)的。邁克爾·科斯說(shuō)：“這些并不是適合大學(xué)生的寬松工裝褲，我們的款式設(shè)計(jì)得更修身。我一直都穿工裝褲。”

Mr. Kors's version is slender and comfortable with real New York attitude. It has the crisp linesof a chino with a great deal more visual appeal. With four smooth zippered pockets, thesecargoes are a slap in the face to the bulkiness of the past, and pickpockets of the future.

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal,Styling by Anne Cardenas從左至右依次為：托德•斯奈德、邁克爾•巴斯蒂安、Gant by Michael Bastian、李維斯(Levi's)、邁克爾•科斯

American designer Michael Bastian has included cargoes in his collection since his first springseason in 2007. Mr. Bastian's spring cargo pant, pictured at right, is softened up, with slimlegs and neater, flatter pockets. They could replace your linen slacks for a languorous soireeon the beach, but they're polished enough for a smart weekend in the city or even a summerFriday at the office. 'I think [the cargo] is the one pant that falls directly in that spot betweenjeans and chinos,' said Mr. Bastian. '[It's] a little more dressed up than a jean and a little morespecial than an ordinary chino. It covers a lot of ground.'

托德•斯奈德這款腿部修身剪裁的工裝褲采用人字紋面料。口袋為平整的流線型，中間沒(méi)有典型的褶皺。Infantry工裝褲，售價(jià)295美元，toddsnyder.com有售。

He said he wears corduroy cargoes for much of the year; in winter, they're heavier and blendedwith cashmere; in summer, they're lighter weight and off-white. 'Pair [cargoes] with a verytailored blazer,' he advised, 'and you're well-dressed enough for anything.' Seeing thedesigner's signature cargo look-rolled to the ankle and paired with a soft-shouldered blazer,shirt and tie-is enough to banish any frat-boy associations you ever had.

邁克爾•巴斯蒂安帶四合扣的平整的口袋位于略高于小腿的位置。Snap工裝褲，售價(jià)465美元，CottageMiami有售，電話(huà)305-534-9917。

One association designers would do well to hang onto is cargoes' connection to militaryhistory, which lends them a cool, rugged appeal. 'Cargo pants' longevity is all about theirutilitarianism,' said American designer Todd Snyder, whose resume includes stints at Gap,J.Crew and Polo Ralph Lauren dating back to 1992, and who shares Mr. Cucinelli's fondness forpairing cargo pants with a sport coat. 'That functionality endures over time.' Mr. Snyder's olive-hued Infantry Cargo pants, shown above, have slim modern lines but also a historical militaryfeel: You can almost see them on Alec Guinness in 'The Bridge on the River Kwai' or in a'Downton Abbey' war scene.

李維斯采用全棉斜紋布面料，非常適合騎車(chē)上班?？诖袃蓚€(gè)夾層。通勤工裝褲，售價(jià)78美元，levi.com有售。

Adhering even closer to the style's military roots, Rag & Bone designers MarcusWainwright and David Neville collaborated this spring with Crye Precision, manufacturers ofmodern-day combat apparel, to create their Precision Pants. With inverted pleat pockets onboth leg fronts and backs, the trousers are severely stylized. The collaboration, said Mr.Wainwright, telegraphs that their cargoes are 'all about vintage and authentic militaryclothing,' cutting to the heart of men's appreciation for the look.

Gant by Michael Bastian腰部帶紐扣的口袋可以裝東西，大腿的口袋就可以騰出來(lái)。腰帶很特別地帶有額外的紐扣。完美工裝褲(Perfect Cargo Pant)，售價(jià)225美元，gant.com有售。

But loving cargo pants doesn't necessarily mean that you're one step away from re-enactingthe Battle of the Bulge on the weekends. There's something purely aesthetic in the power ofthe pocket. 'It gives the pants just a little extra interest, rather than just a regular flat-fronttrouser,' said Bruce Pask, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman.

邁克爾•科斯這款修身工裝褲采用很輕的彈性斜紋布面料，有四個(gè)小的拉鏈口袋。工裝褲，售價(jià)175美元，michaelkors.com有售。

And so what started as a utilitarian pant and advertisement for masculinity, has morphed intoan endlessly interpreted design staple. Will the cargo ever go away? Avowed cargo enthusiastAlex Kasavin certainly doesn't think so. Mr. Kasavin, a co-owner of Brooklyn menswear shopIDOL, sees only continued evolution. A designer's sensibility can come through even when heworks within the conventions of cargo pants, Mr. Kasavin said. 'It's still a cargo, but it's alsoclearly that designer's pant.' At his store, he is selling the Matrix-like 'Memphis' pants from RickOwens's Drkshdw label. He also admires styles from other designers, such as Balmain.

Everett Collection老式工裝褲 2000年，身穿寬松工裝褲的男孩樂(lè)團(tuán)98 Degrees成員?？扑沟目钍胶苁?，很舒服，有著純粹的紐約態(tài)度。它有著斜紋棉布褲的挺括線條，視覺(jué)上的吸引力則強(qiáng)得多。四個(gè)流暢的拉鏈口袋讓從前的臃腫無(wú)所遁形，也讓小偷無(wú)處下手。

These days, cargo pants speak across cultures, from hip-hop to hipster, beach front to boardroom. With all these options, I thought, surely I can coax Suburban Dad Mr. Troiano back intothe cargo-pant fold.

從2007年首個(gè)春季系列開(kāi)始，美國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師邁克爾·巴斯蒂安的設(shè)計(jì)就一直包括工裝褲。右圖中巴斯蒂安今春的工裝褲更加柔軟，小腿更修身，口袋也更平整。這條褲子可以替代亞麻寬松褲去參加慵懶的沙灘聚會(huì)，而若要在城市里度過(guò)瀟 的周末，或者夏季的周五在辦公室里，它也足夠地精致。巴斯蒂安說(shuō)：“我覺(jué)得工裝褲正好介于牛仔褲和斜紋棉布褲之間的位置。它比牛仔褲正式一點(diǎn)，又比普通的棉布褲更特別一點(diǎn)。它可以駕馭很多場(chǎng)合。”

First, I asked if he would look at some images of the futuristic cargo pants by Rick Owens. Hefell silent. It was the silence of countless of us dads who have passed Brooklyn hipsterviability. Next, I asked him to look at Todd Snyder's work. 'That's a nice pant,' he said, '[It's] aclassic look.' 'How so?' I asked. 'Like Otis Day's 'Shout' classic,' he said, 'everyone loves thatsong!' Yes, I thought, in their own ways, everyone loves these pants.

但是說(shuō)到最新的設(shè)計(jì)師品牌高檔工裝褲，不得不提到意大利設(shè)計(jì)師布魯奈羅·庫(kù)奇內(nèi)利(Brunello Cucinelli)。他花了很大精力為工裝褲賦予了一絲奢華和休閑高雅的元素。庫(kù)奇內(nèi)利就像是一位時(shí)尚預(yù)言師，他從1998年開(kāi)始就設(shè)計(jì)了小巧的工裝褲款式。他說(shuō)：“這種款式既年輕又實(shí)用，會(huì)讓人顯得很現(xiàn)代，同時(shí)又很舒適。它已經(jīng)成了我的常規(guī)穿著。”

But you can't talk about the new generation of high-end, designer-refined cargo pantswithout mentioning Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli, BC.MI -0.20% who has done more thanhis share to impart an air of luxury and casual sophistication to the pants. Something of afashion fortune teller, Mr. Cucinelli has produced a more dapper cargo pant since 1998. 'Thereis something youthful and practical about them which keeps a man looking modern andcomfortable,' said Mr. Cucinelli. 'They've become part of my uniform.'

他說(shuō)他大部分時(shí)候都穿燈芯絨工裝褲。冬天比較厚，布料添加了羊絨;夏天是輕薄的白色工裝褲。他建議道：“可以把工裝褲和裁剪十分考究的休閑西服搭配，這樣什么場(chǎng)合都能應(yīng)付。” 巴斯蒂安的標(biāo)志性工裝褲款式——褲腳卷至腳踝，搭配一件無(wú)肩襯休閑西服、襯衫和領(lǐng)帶——足以將任何兄弟會(huì)的痕跡消除。

THAT'S DEBATABLE | Should I actually carry anything in my cargo pockets?

設(shè)計(jì)師仍然很堅(jiān)持的一點(diǎn)是工裝褲和軍服之間的聯(lián)系，這種聯(lián)系讓工裝褲有了一種很酷的粗獷的吸引力。美國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師托德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)說(shuō)：“‘工裝褲’的長(zhǎng)盛不衰在于它的實(shí)用主義。”自1992年起，斯奈德陸續(xù)在蓋璞(Gap)、J.Crew和拉夫·勞倫(Polo Ralph Lauren)供職。他和庫(kù)奇內(nèi)利一樣，都喜歡將工裝褲和輕便上衣搭配。他說(shuō)：“那種功用性是歷久常新的。”上圖中斯奈德設(shè)計(jì)的橄欖色步兵工裝褲有著修長(zhǎng)的現(xiàn)代線條，同時(shí)也有軍裝的歷史感：《桂河大橋》(The Bridge on the River Kwai)中的亞歷克·吉尼斯(Alec Guinness)身上或者《唐頓莊園》(Downton Abbey)中的戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)場(chǎng)景中就有這種褲子的影子。

Sure!

今年春季，瑞格布恩(Rag & Bone)設(shè)計(jì)師馬庫(kù)斯·溫賴(lài)特(Marcus Wainwright)及大衛(wèi)·內(nèi)維爾(DavidNeville)與現(xiàn)代軍服制造商Crye Precision聯(lián)合推出了Precision Pants，將工裝褲與軍服的淵源體現(xiàn)得更淋漓盡致。這款褲子前后都有暗?袋，風(fēng)格化十足。溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)，這次合作的工裝褲“就是對(duì)老式的真正的軍服的演繹”，完全顛覆了男士們對(duì)這種款式的審美。

Crazy as it sounds, 'utilitarian' fashion can actually be useful, contends the pro-stash camp.'You can carry everything in your pockets,' said Alex Kasavin, co-owner of Brooklyn store IDOL.American designer Todd Snyder takes a more conservative approach-restricting the actualcargo to slim and essential objects. 'You can carry your phone and passport,' said Mr. Snyder.'But nothing bulky.'

但愛(ài)穿工裝褲并不一定意味著你周末穿上工裝褲會(huì)讓突出部之役(Battle of the Bulge)重新上演。工裝褲的口袋有著很純粹的美感。波道夫·古德曼精品百貨店(Bergdorf Goodman)男裝總監(jiān)布魯斯·派斯克(Bruce Pask)說(shuō)：“口袋讓褲子多了有趣的元素，讓它不再是一條平淡無(wú)奇的褲子了。”

Not Really

于是，最開(kāi)始主打男子漢氣概的實(shí)用工裝褲演變成了有無(wú)數(shù)種解讀的設(shè)計(jì)單品。工裝褲會(huì)不會(huì)淡出時(shí)尚舞臺(tái)?酷愛(ài)工裝褲的亞歷克斯·卡薩文(Alex Kasavin)肯定不會(huì)這么認(rèn)為?？ㄋ_文是布魯克林男裝店IDOL的老板之一，他認(rèn)為工裝褲只會(huì)繼續(xù)演化。卡薩文說(shuō)，即使是按照工裝褲的傳統(tǒng)慣例設(shè)計(jì)，設(shè)計(jì)師的感覺(jué)也能體現(xiàn)出來(lái)。他說(shuō)：“雖然還是工裝褲，但也很明顯帶有設(shè)計(jì)師的風(fēng)格。”他的店里賣(mài)的是瑞克·歐文斯(Rick Owens)旗下Drkshdw品牌的工裝褲，《黑客帝國(guó)》(Matrix)里孟菲斯(Memphis)的那種款式。他也喜歡巴爾曼等其他設(shè)計(jì)師的款式。

Since one crucial element of the revamped designer cargo is sleeker pockets, keeping themempty or near-empty makes sense. 'You don't want to end up looking like a pack mule,' saidMichael Kors. But if you must, he allowed: 'Just a slim credit card or wallet.' BergdorfGoodman men's fashion director Bruce Pask always keeps his cargo pockets clean, with oneexception-those days when he's on location for a photo shoot.

從嘻哈到嬉皮，從海灘到會(huì)議室，如今各類(lèi)文化中都能看到工裝褲的身影。我覺(jué)得，既然有這么多的選擇，我肯定可以把“鄉(xiāng)下老爸”特羅亞諾拉回到工裝褲的世界。

Maybe

首先，我問(wèn)他是否愿意看看瑞克·歐文斯設(shè)計(jì)的未來(lái)主義風(fēng)格工裝褲的圖片。他陷入了沉默。正是無(wú)數(shù)老爸們的這種沉默最終讓布魯克林嬉皮風(fēng)得以延續(xù)。接下來(lái)我讓他看托德·斯奈德的作品。他說(shuō)：“這條褲子不錯(cuò)，經(jīng)典的風(fēng)格。”我問(wèn)道：“為什么?”他說(shuō)：“就像Otis Day的經(jīng)典歌曲《吶喊》(Shout)。所有人都喜歡那首歌!”沒(méi)錯(cuò)，我心想，每個(gè)人都在以自己的方式喜歡這種褲子。

Some feel it's a matter of choice. 'That's a very personal question,' said Rag & Bonedesigner Marcus Wainwright. 'I'm not going to determine that for anybody.'

爭(zhēng)議點(diǎn) 該不該在工裝褲口袋里裝東西?

Lawrence LaRose

Illustration by Joe McKendry for The Wall Street Journal褲兜當(dāng)然可以裝東西!當(dāng)然可以!