美麗中國(guó)第三集 西藏Tibet

[00:00.00]NARRATOR: The Tibetan plateau is a quarter of China. [00:03.64] [00:06.16]Much of it is extremely remote and inhospitable. [00:09.76] [00:11.48]Its southern border runs through the world's highest mountain range, [00:16.16] [00:16.24]the formidable Himalayas. [00:18.24] [00:23.32]Its central part is a windswept and freezing wilderness [00:26.24] [00:26.32]the size of Western Europe. [00:28.40] [00:32.52]But this challenging place is home to incredible wildlife. [00:36.32] [00:37.48]There are more large creatures here than anywhere else in China. [00:41.48] [00:52.24]Tibet has been a province of China for more than 50 years, [00:56.60] [00:56.68]yet it has a unique character, [00:58.92] [00:59.00]shaped by over 1,000 years of Tibetan Buddhism. [01:02.48] [01:07.44]This obscure and archaic looking religion [01:10.68] [01:10.76]has produced one of the most enlightened cultures on earth. [01:14.44] [01:16.08]Here people have a long tradition of co-existing peacefully [01:19.56] [01:19.64]with the creatures and landscape around them, [01:23.52] [01:23.60]a relationship which has helped to protect their fragile environment. [01:28.28] [01:33.04]In this programme we will discover why this harsh land with its ancient culture [01:38.08] [01:38.16]is vitally important for much of our planet. [01:41.44] [02:21.80]It's the beginning of winter, high up on the Tibetan plateau. [02:26.44] [02:31.08]The temperature will soon drop to minus 40 Celsius. [02:35.00] [02:49.68]Out here, life is reduced to a single imperative. [02:53.96] [02:55.00]Survival. [02:56.56] [03:05.84]For the argali, the world's largest sheep, [03:09.92] [03:10.00]it means searching for a few tufts of grass. [03:12.92] [03:29.24]Descending from the hilltops to lower altitudes, [03:32.44] [03:32.52]the argali band together for safety. [03:35.08] [03:38.32]Hopefully, down here they'll be able to find enough food [03:42.00] [03:42.08]to last them through the rest of the winter. [03:44.96] [03:58.44]Although this winter landscape looks barren and forbidding, [04:02.40] [04:02.48]Tibet's remote grasslands support a surprising variety of creatures, [04:08.00] [04:08.08]though at this time of year they can be hard to track down. [04:11.92] [04:26.92](ENGINES ROARING) [04:28.76] [04:36.64]By comparison, Tibet's capital Lhasa, is a hive of activity. [04:41.52] [04:45.44]Lhasa is a focus for large numbers of pilgrims [04:48.76] [04:48.84]who congregate at the city's temples each day. [04:51.84] [04:57.28]Tibet is home to over two-and-a-half million people, [05:01.24] [05:01.32]most of whom are deeply religious. [05:03.76] [05:12.88]Though Tibetan Buddhist worship [05:14.32] [05:14.40]centres on elaborate temples, statues and images, [05:18.12] [05:18.20]its beliefs are intimately linked with the wild landscapes of Tibet. [05:22.56] [05:41.96]The starting point for that relationship [05:44.52] [05:44.64]is the mountain range that runs along Tibet's southern border. [05:48.52] [06:00.56]Over 3,000 kilometres long, [06:03.36] [06:03.44]the Himalayas are China's real Great Wall. [06:07.60] [06:12.96]With hundreds of peaks over 7,000 metres [06:16.16] [06:16.24]and 13 peaks higher than 8,000 metres, [06:19.84] [06:19.92]they are the highest mountains on earth. [06:22.64] [06:36.60]The Tibetan region contains over 35,000 glaciers [06:41.44] [06:41.52]that cover over 100,000 square kilometres. [06:44.72] [06:48.48]They comprise the largest area of ice outside the polar regions, [06:53.28] [06:53.36]and nearly a sixth of the world's total. [06:56.12] [07:01.16]These glaciers are the source of most of the water in the region. [07:05.16] [07:08.80]And the Tibetan plateau is studded with glacial lakes. [07:13.04] [07:13.12]At over 4,500 metres up, [07:16.12] [07:16.20]Lake Manasarovar, in the far west of Tibet, [07:19.44] [07:19.52]is the highest freshwater lake in the world. [07:22.48] [07:26.08]In late spring the chilly lake waters are a magnet for breeding birds. [07:30.40] [07:39.40]The crested grebe woos his mate with offerings of weed for her nest. [07:43.52] [08:04.32]Finally the honeymoon suite is ready for action. [08:07.80] [08:28.68]The grebes are joined by the highest-flying birds in the world. [08:33.04] [08:33.12]Having spent the winter south of the Himalayas, [08:35.92] [08:36.00]bar-headed geese make the hazardous mountain crossing each spring [08:39.72] [08:39.80]to breed on the plateau's lakes. [08:42.16] [09:04.80]The geese nest together for safety. [09:07.64] [09:07.72]But so many chicks hatching at the same time [09:10.36] [09:10.44]means that it can be tricky finding your parents. [09:13.84] [09:23.40]Fortunately, once down at the water's edge, [09:26.00] [09:26.08]there's enough food for all of them. [09:28.64] [09:35.20]Fed by the mountain glaciers, [09:37.28] [09:37.36]the Tibetan plateau even has its own inland sea. [09:40.64] [09:49.36]This is Qinghai Lake, China's largest. [09:53.60] [10:01.20]Millions of years of evaporation [10:03.64] [10:03.72]have concentrated the minerals in the lake, [10:06.92] [10:07.00]turning the water salty. [10:08.96] [10:11.40]Rich in fish, its waters attract thousands of cormorants. [10:15.24] [10:36.28]But it's not just wildlife that values Tibet's lakes and seas, [10:41.28] [10:41.36]their life-giving waters are also important to people. [10:44.80] [10:48.56]Tibetan religion is a unique mix of Buddhism [10:51.32] [10:51.40]and much older shamanic beliefs [10:54.24] [10:54.32]that were once widespread throughout the region. [10:57.76] [10:57.84]This hybrid religion forms the basis [11:00.16] [11:00.24]of an extraordinary relationship with nature. [11:03.16] [11:06.72]In shamanic belief, [11:08.56] [11:08.64]the land is imbued with magical properties [11:11.04] [11:11.12]which aid communication with the spirit world. [11:14.12] [11:20.28]Here animal skulls are decorated, [11:23.04] [11:23.12]and rocks are carved with sacred mantras, [11:26.20] [11:26.28]groups of syllables that are considered to have spiritual power. [11:30.24] [11:33.88]The reciting of the mantras is believed to create a magical sound [11:37.52] [11:37.60]that reverberates through the universe. [11:40.28] [11:43.36]The landscape is decorated with multi-coloured flags [11:46.04] [11:46.12]which represent the five elements, [11:48.48] [11:48.56]fire, wood, earth, water and iron. [11:53.08] [11:54.92]The flags are printed with prayers to purify the air and pacify the gods, [12:00.16] [12:00.24]and the wind blows the prayers to heaven. [12:03.16] [12:09.20]The poles on which the prayer flags are mounted [12:11.44] [12:11.52]are regularly replenished with fresh flags. [12:14.84] [12:14.92]The old flags are treasured. [12:18.00] [12:18.08]Those nearest the top of the pole are the most auspicious, [12:22.28] [12:22.36]so competition for these can get fierce! [12:25.08] [12:25.16](PEOPLE CHATTERING EXCITEDLY) [12:27.24] [12:43.60]The golden dome which is mounted right at the top of the prayer pole [12:47.16] [12:47.24]is the most sacred object of all. [12:49.64] [12:52.00]Or it will be, once it's retrieved. [12:54.64] [12:59.56](MAN LAUGHING) [13:01.12] [13:07.04]The old shamanic beliefs of Tibet [13:09.16] [13:09.24]ascribed magical powers to the landscape. [13:11.96] [13:14.88]But there's a far more tangible source of power here [13:18.28] [13:18.36]which owes nothing at all to magic. [13:21.20] [13:24.72]Strewn across the plateau are boiling thermal springs, [13:29.56] [13:29.64]the evidence of mighty natural forces [13:32.32] [13:32.40]which have been at work over millions of years. [13:36.04] [13:36.84]Deep below the surface, [13:38.32] [13:38.40]the vast continental plates of Asia and India are crashing into each other. [13:42.96] [13:44.44]The turmoil below erupts in clouds of sulphurous steam. [13:47.92] [13:53.08]It seems unlikely that scalding mineral springs should support life. [13:58.32] [13:58.40]But one unlikely creature thrives here precisely because of them. [14:02.44] [14:12.36]The hot spring snake is unique to Tibet and is believed to have survived [14:17.44] [14:17.52]the inhospitable conditions up on the plateau [14:20.56] [14:20.64]principally thanks to this natural central heating. [14:23.84] [14:27.08]These cold-blooded snakes hang out in streams and rivers [14:30.36] [14:30.44]which are fed by the hot springs, [14:33.00] [14:33.08]where they enjoy a surprisingly productive lifestyle. [14:36.48] [14:44.52]Slipping into the warm water they wait patiently, [14:48.36] [14:48.44]bobbing their heads on the lookout for fish. [14:51.36] [15:10.64]Thanks to its unlikely relationship [15:12.60] [15:12.68]with the volcanic forces which built the Himalayas, [15:16.12] [15:16.20]the hot spring snake is able to survive at altitudes up to 4,500 metres, [15:22.28] [15:22.36]making it the highest-living snake in the world. [15:25.48] [15:34.16]The slow-motion crash between Asia and India [15:37.64] [15:37.72]has been going on for 30 million years. [15:40.56] [15:43.40]The Himalayas are the crumple-zone [15:45.48] [15:45.56]created by these two colliding land masses, [15:49.00] [15:49.08]a bewildering maze of mountains and valleys [15:52.12] [15:52.20]home to elusive wild creatures. [15:54.52] [16:00.24]In this rugged and unforgiving terrain, [16:03.04] [16:03.12]littered with fractured rock and ice-cold rivers, [16:06.16] [16:06.24]the slightest miscalculation may have fatal consequences. [16:10.48] [16:15.32]The snow leopard is the world's highest-living big cat. [16:19.44] [16:21.52]But there's another, smaller predator that ranges even higher, [16:25.52] [16:25.60]almost to the roof of the world. [16:27.96] [16:36.84]At a mind-numbing 8,848 metres high, [16:41.76] [16:41.84]Everest is one of the most hostile places for life on earth. [16:45.60] [16:47.56]Hundreds of people have died trying to conquer it. [16:50.80] [16:52.28]But when climbers first reached the ice fields [16:54.68] [16:54.76]three-quarters of the way up the mountain, [16:57.32] [16:57.40]something had already beaten them to it. [17:00.12] [17:03.16]This jumping spider is the highest permanent resident on the planet. [17:08.20] [17:08.28]Totally at home amongst the glaciers of Everest, [17:11.00] [17:11.08]it scours the slopes for wind-borne prey such as springtails. [17:15.80] [17:15.88]Chinese call this fierce little hunter the fly tiger. [17:19.80] [17:22.56]Jumping spiders are found all over the world. [17:26.28] [17:26.36]Their eight eyes include an oversized central pair, [17:29.80] [17:29.88]which act like powerful binoculars to spot potential victims. [17:33.68] [17:37.60]They use hydraulic pressure to work their legs like pistons, [17:41.52] [17:41.60]catapulting up to 30 times their own body length. [17:44.76] [17:46.72]The ideal way to get around in rocky terrain. [17:49.80] [17:51.84]But like all mountaineers, they always secure a safety line first. [17:56.56] [18:05.64]A springtail grazes on detritus, [18:08.28] [18:08.36]unaware that it's being stalked by such an acrobatic predator. [18:12.32] [18:36.56]The Tibetans call Everest Qomolangma, meaning "mother of the world". [18:41.88] [18:41.96]It's a mark of their affection for the mountain, [18:44.56] [18:44.64]however brutal it may appear. [18:46.80] [18:49.68]Venture further from the mountains and out onto the open plateau, [18:53.48] [18:53.56]and life doesn't appear to get any easier. [18:56.40] [18:58.40]High winds scour the landscape [19:00.76] [19:00.84]and temperatures can drop from baking to freezing in moments. [19:04.64] [19:12.92]This is the Chang Tang, or Northern Grassland. [19:17.12] [19:17.20]It's so remote that it's been called the Third Pole. [19:20.68] [19:23.76]It's about 5,000 metres above sea level, [19:27.28] [19:27.36]way above the point at which altitude sickness [19:29.48] [19:29.56]starts to affect humans. [19:32.04] [19:32.12]At this height, most people are gasping for breath. [19:35.80] [19:37.28]But lack of oxygen hasn't cramped this creature's style. [19:40.80] [19:47.04]Chiru, or Tibetan antelope, have arrived for the winter rut. [19:51.60] [19:59.60]In the energy-sapping thin air, [20:01.64] [20:01.72]the males must try to control groups of females [20:04.84] [20:04.92]by constantly rounding them up and corralling them. [20:08.20] [20:17.40]But the chiru have an advantage, [20:20.08] [20:20.16]their red blood cell count is twice as high as ours, [20:24.04] [20:24.12]sufficient to supply their muscles with oxygen [20:26.96] [20:27.04]even at this extreme altitude. [20:29.24] [20:40.20]Nevertheless, it's hard work keeping his harem in check, [20:44.64] [20:44.72]and the male's life is about to get even harder. [20:47.80] [20:49.60]Another male is gearing up to steal his females. [20:52.72] [21:11.80](BELLOWING) [21:13.24] [22:13.64]With their rapier-like horns, [22:15.96] [22:16.04]the males won't risk fighting unless they really have to. [22:19.96] [22:20.04]But if neither backs down, conflict is inevitable. [22:23.28] [22:36.28]Some of these fights end in death. [22:39.08] [23:04.96]While the males fence, the females look on. [23:08.32] [23:31.16]Injured and weakened by the battle, the loser will be an easy target [23:35.32] [23:35.40]for the predators and scavengers that patrol the wilderness. [23:39.32] [23:42.52]Out here there's little room for mistakes. [23:45.32] [23:46.44]With a clear view of the endless plateau below, [23:49.24] [23:49.32]vultures are quick to spot any opportunity. [23:52.08] [24:00.00]A dead yak has drawn a crowd. [24:02.56] [24:12.08]Vultures aren't famous for their table manners. [24:15.16] [24:24.60]The vultures do well here, [24:26.56] [24:26.64]as the vast Tibetan wilderness is home to many large creatures. [24:30.56] [24:39.48]Living in herds of up to 200 [24:41.28] [24:41.36]in the remoter corners of the Tibetan plateau, [24:44.52] [24:44.60]wild yaks travel large distances, grazing on the alpine tundra. [24:49.20] [24:52.08]Strong and secure over mountain passes and rivers, [24:55.40] [24:55.48]the yak is in its element at altitude, [24:58.80] [24:58.88]so much so that it gets sick if it goes below 3,000 metres. [25:02.96] [25:06.32]Standing two metres tall at the shoulder and weighing more than 800 kilos, [25:11.08] [25:11.16]the wild yak is both formidable and aggressive. [25:14.24] [25:17.80]But without this fearsome creature, [25:20.00] [25:20.08]it's unlikely that humans would have survived up here. [25:23.52] [25:28.44]Once domesticated, the yak is an amazing animal, [25:32.20] [25:32.28]providing the Tibetans with transport, food, [25:35.96] [25:36.04]wool for clothes and tents, and manure for fuel. [25:39.52] [25:47.12]It's held in such high regard [25:49.52] [25:49.60]that its fur is even used to decorate the sacred prayer flag poles, [25:54.24] [25:54.32]and yak butter is used as an offering to the gods. [25:58.12] [26:05.36]The yak has even led the Tibetans to buried treasure! [26:08.84] [26:22.32]In summer, people can be seen scouring the grassland, [26:26.76] [26:26.84]bent over in deep concentration. [26:29.16] [26:30.92]This is the world's weirdest harvest. [26:33.68] [26:48.20]Tibetans first investigated this strange root-like organism, [26:52.28] [26:52.36]known locally as yatsa gunbu, [26:55.28] [26:55.36]when their yaks appeared to have more energy after grazing on it. [26:59.32] [27:15.04]Rumours of its amazing properties gradually spread [27:18.68] [27:18.76]and today the yatsa gunbu is a passport into a shady, underground world. [27:24.24] [27:39.96]It's possible to dig up 40 of them in a day, [27:43.76] [27:43.84]the proceeds from which may provide half the collector's annual income. [27:48.16] [27:50.40]Yatsa gunbu has been used [27:52.60] [27:52.68]as a traditional remedy for thousands of years, [27:56.44] [27:56.52]though only by the very wealthy. [27:59.20] [27:59.28]It's been bartered for tea and silk, [28:01.64] [28:01.72]and is worth more than four times its weight in silver. [28:05.52] [28:05.60]So lucrative is this trade, [28:07.56] [28:07.64]that sites and information are jealously guarded. [28:11.16] [28:16.32]At the nearby market, yatsa gunbu are cleaned, [28:20.12] [28:20.20]and their true nature becomes clear. [28:22.72] [28:24.24]Yatsa gunbu translates as "summer grass, winter worm". [28:28.68] [28:29.88]The winter worm is a caterpillar. [28:32.20] [28:34.24]It eats the roots of grasses [28:35.92] [28:36.00]in preparation for its transformation into a moth. [28:39.68] [28:45.60]But some winter worms never make it as moths. [28:49.20] [28:49.28]Instead, a strange growth erupts from their body, [28:52.40] [28:52.48]appearing above ground in summer. [28:54.84] [28:55.88]This is the summer grass, a fungus called <i>Cordyceps</i> [29:00.76] [29:00.84]whose spores have infected the caterpillar, [29:03.44] [29:03.52]using its body as their host. [29:05.68] [29:08.44]Modern scientific tests have shown that substances contained in <i>Cordyceps</i> [29:13.16] [29:13.24]lower blood pressure and make it easier to breathe. [29:17.44] [29:17.52]So in recent years, harvesting this natural treasure [29:21.04] [29:21.12]has grown into a huge and profitable business. [29:24.12] [29:56.12]Yatsa gunbu sells for big money in the top department stores of Lhasa, [30:01.76] [30:01.84]and there is a growing market outside of Tibet. [30:04.88] [30:16.28]Although Tibet is modernising fast, it retains a deeply spiritual culture. [30:22.08] [30:34.84]Even today Tibetan valleys resound [30:37.68] [30:37.76]to distinctive and extraordinary calls to prayer. [30:40.92] [30:41.00](HORN PLAYING) [30:42.68] [30:45.40]The Tibetan horn may be the world's most unwieldy instrument, [30:49.92] [30:50.00]but its sound is unique. [30:51.92] [31:09.96]Every morning the nuns assemble for practise. [31:12.88] [31:20.12]The air is chilly, but they soon warm up. [31:23.48] [31:32.36]Monks and nuns comprise a substantial portion of society, [31:36.76] [31:36.84]largely self-contained and isolated. [31:39.48] [31:54.08]Deep within the monastery [31:55.96] [31:56.04]is the spiritual engine that drives much of Tibetan culture. [31:59.80] [31:59.88](NUNS CHANTING) [32:01.88] [32:06.80]Buddhists believe in an endless cycle of rebirth [32:09.76] [32:09.84]in which the actions of this life will impact on the next. [32:14.32] [32:14.40]The goal of Buddhism is to escape [32:16.12] [32:16.20]from this earthly cycle of pain and suffering [32:19.28] [32:19.36]by achieving a state of freedom called enlightenment. [32:23.24] [32:39.84]The enlightened guides, or spiritual teachers, are called lamas. [32:44.44] [32:49.76]The possibility of escaping the cycle of life and death [32:53.64] [32:53.72]and the promise of enlightenment [32:56.00] [32:56.08]encourages people to perform activities that benefit all beings. [33:00.20] [33:06.80]This belief assigns as much importance to the environment and its creatures [33:11.56] [33:11.64]as it does to humans, [33:13.76] [33:13.84]since every living creature is believed to have a soul. [33:17.32] [33:21.96]In the remote lands of Tibet, for over 1,000 years [33:25.48] [33:25.56]this concept has been translated into practical benefits for wildlife, [33:30.92] [33:31.00]and it starts literally on their doorstep. [33:33.84] [33:44.36]Buddhist monasteries have sacred sites, [33:47.64] [33:47.72]areas where taboos are placed on the hunting and killing of animals. [33:51.88] [33:54.80]Some creatures have become so tame [33:57.32] [33:57.40]that the nuns are able to hand-feed them, [34:00.32] [34:00.40]like these Tibetan eared pheasants. [34:02.88] [34:11.64](CALLING BIRDS) [34:13.56] [34:13.64]Thanks to handouts from the nuns, [34:15.96] [34:16.04]these rare birds can survive the worst of the winter. [34:19.40] [34:26.60]In this extreme place, people with few resources [34:29.68] [34:29.76]are prepared to share them with their needy fellow-creatures. [34:33.56] [34:42.44]The Tibetan example is a model for conservation. [34:45.56] [35:02.44]This respect for wildlife extends beyond the monasteries [35:06.28] [35:06.36]and into the wider community. [35:08.56] [35:23.32]One of Tibet's most sacred creatures is the black-necked crane. [35:27.48] [35:27.56]In summer they live and breed out on the plateau, [35:30.72] [35:30.80]but in winter they congregate on farmland. [35:34.28] [35:34.36]Seventy percent of the world's population can be found here. [35:38.08] [35:42.12]The species was only recently identified by scientists, [35:46.56] [35:46.64]but it's been known to Tibetans for hundreds of years. [35:50.68] [35:50.76]In the 17th century, Tibet's supreme lama wrote, [35:54.68] [35:54.76]"Crane, lend me your wings. [35:57.48] [35:57.56]"I go no farther than Lithang County. [36:00.84] [36:00.92]"And thence, return again." [36:03.00] [36:04.92]Tibetans believed [36:06.52] [36:06.60]he was predicting the site of his own reincarnation, [36:10.20] [36:10.28]and in due course his successor was found, [36:13.56] [36:13.64]sure enough, living in Lithang County. [36:17.04] [36:19.76]Even today, black-necked cranes are treated with reverence [36:23.20] [36:23.28]and are welcomed by farmers [36:25.20] [36:25.28]as they land in the fields around the villages. [36:28.36] [36:51.24]Here they perform their elaborate sky pointing rituals. [36:55.12] [37:16.08]After the dignified business of parading, [37:18.80] [37:18.88]they begin to forage for leftover barley, [37:21.60] [37:23.64]helped by the pigs which break up the soil. [37:26.48] [37:28.76]The farmers are happy to have these sacred birds on their fields. [37:32.76] [37:37.40]Within the village, religion is an integral part of life. [37:41.16] [37:44.64]Each prayer wheel is inscribed with mantras. [37:47.84] [37:47.92]Spinning them has much the same effect as reciting the prayers. [37:51.84] [37:53.76]Perhaps the Buddha would have enjoyed the thought [37:56.08] [37:56.16]that his teachings could provide so much fun! [37:59.12] [38:13.60]Buddhist respect for nature may find expression in practical ways, too. [38:17.84] [38:31.16]This bird has a broken wing [38:33.92] [38:34.00]and has been nursed back to health by the villagers. [38:37.84] [38:37.92]Such kind acts are common [38:39.88] [38:39.96]where people believe that helping other beings, [38:42.48] [38:42.56]animals or people, in this life may bring rewards in the next. [38:47.96] [39:03.68]The culture of veneration and protection extends right across Tibet, [39:08.48] [39:08.56]helping to preserve a unique yet fragile ecosystem. [39:12.80] [39:12.88](THUNDER RUMBLING) [39:14.72] [39:19.56]Out on the plateau there's a small creature [39:22.24] [39:22.32]that's at the root of much of the grassland's delicate ecology. [39:26.12] [39:27.28]Despite summer snowstorms, the pika, a relative of rabbits and hares, [39:32.36] [39:32.44]is perpetually eating and gathering grass, [39:35.44] [39:35.52]and digging burrows for its family. [39:38.04] [39:41.68]The pika's constant excavations aerate the soil, [39:46.36] [39:46.44]which helps the plants to grow. [39:48.72] [39:51.92]In the short summer, the landscape is carpeted with hardy grasses [39:55.96] [39:56.04]and decorated with endemic flowers. [39:58.56] [40:21.96]In such a frugal environment, [40:24.16] [40:24.24]the pika's farming helps to kick start the food chain. [40:28.40] [40:28.48]But the pika itself is a very tasty morsel. [40:31.40] [40:33.68]Its presence has enabled an uneasy relationship to develop [40:37.60] [40:37.68]between two of the plateau's most opportunistic predators, [40:42.40] [40:42.48]the fox and the bear. [40:44.68] [41:28.56]The Tibetan brown bear, a close relative of the grizzly, [41:32.92] [41:33.00]tries to dig the pikas out of their burrows. [41:35.92] [41:37.32]Even hard, frozen soil presents little obstacle to a determined bear. [41:41.64] [41:50.80]Meanwhile, the wily Tibetan fox trails the bear, [41:54.96] [41:55.04]hoping to profit from the confusion. [41:57.56] [42:00.48](PIKA SQUEAKING) [42:02.12] [42:22.36]True to form, the crafty fox claims the prize. [42:26.00] [42:36.16]A combination of inaccessibility [42:38.28] [42:38.36]and ancient traditions which forbid hunting, [42:41.28] [42:41.36]means that in some parts of the plateau, [42:43.80] [42:43.88]wild animals have remained relatively undisturbed, even today. [42:48.16] [42:49.68]But in those areas which are within reach of motor vehicles, [42:53.24] [42:53.32]these historical safeguards have been undermined. [42:56.48] [42:58.76]This change is illustrated in the fortunes of the chiru. [43:03.04] [43:03.12]A century ago, millions migrated across the plateau. [43:06.92] [43:07.96]Unfortunately for the chiru, [43:09.96] [43:10.04]its fur, known as shahtoosh, or king of wools, is highly prized. [43:15.88] [43:15.96]In recent decades, [43:17.04] [43:17.12]poachers have been able to venture deep into the wilderness, [43:20.00] [43:20.08]killing thousands of chiru. [43:22.48] [43:22.56]However, the situation is improving. [43:25.40] [43:25.48]Anti-poaching laws are now actively enforced, [43:28.84] [43:28.92]so every summer, female chiru can head to the birthing grounds [43:33.04] [43:33.12]in relative safety. [43:34.84] [43:46.88]Out on the plateau new-born chiru are vulnerable to predators, [43:50.72] [43:52.32]so the mothers must try to hide and protect them. [43:55.48] [44:09.92]The most recent problem faced by the chiru [44:12.68] [44:12.76]is the new Tibet-Qinghai railway [44:15.76] [44:15.84]which cuts right through their traditional migration routes. [44:19.44] [44:19.52]Running nearly 2,000 kilometres [44:21.44] [44:21.52]through some of the highest terrain on earth, [44:24.08] [44:24.16]the railway is an astonishing technical feat. [44:27.12] [44:28.72]It's too early to see its effect on the wildlife, [44:32.00] [44:32.08]but the engineers have made efforts to incorporate underpasses [44:35.96] [44:36.04]where wildlife can cross the line in safety. [44:38.96] [44:50.44]As the modern world increasingly impacts on Tibet, [44:53.88] [44:53.96]its traditions could be in danger of being eroded. [44:57.28] [45:11.60]But thanks to the sheer scale of this remote region, [45:14.96] [45:15.04]there are still many wild places [45:17.36] [45:17.44]that have so far remained largely intact. [45:20.56] [45:23.96]The least explored area of all is found in Tibet's far southeast. [45:28.84] [45:35.96]Here the Yarlung river, Tibet's longest, [45:39.12] [45:39.20]has carved though the Himalayas, [45:41.84] [45:41.92]allowing monsoon clouds from India to pass through. [45:45.16] [45:51.96]This is Tibet's most secret corner. [45:54.48] [45:58.28]According to legend, the Yarlung gorge [46:00.80] [46:00.88]was rendered magically invisible in the 8th century [46:04.48] [46:04.56]and can only be seen by those [46:06.24] [46:06.32]who have attained sufficient spiritual knowledge and wisdom. [46:10.04] [46:18.92]At two days' walk from the nearest road, [46:22.04] [46:22.12]this hidden region wasn't explored by outsiders until the 1990s. [46:27.08] [46:32.96]Thanks to the annual monsoon, [46:35.32] [46:35.40]the whole landscape is covered in lush forest. [46:38.40] [46:41.04]The scale of the gorge is breathtaking. [46:43.84] [46:47.24]As the Yarlung river cuts through the mountains, [46:50.24] [46:50.32]it's created the world's deepest gorge, [46:53.08] [46:53.16]three times deeper than America's Grand Canyon. [46:56.20] [47:01.00]This vast and mysterious place provides a vital clue [47:04.68] [47:04.76]to Tibet's importance for the rest of the world. [47:07.84] [47:10.96]The monsoon which sustains this lush and fertile valley [47:14.80] [47:14.88]owes its very existence to the Tibetan plateau. [47:18.20] [47:26.68]Like a giant hotplate, [47:28.68] [47:28.76]the plateau heats up in the spring and summer. [47:31.76] [47:33.24]The change in air pressure draws in warm moist air [47:36.32] [47:36.40]from the Indian Ocean in the south. [47:38.92] [47:42.48]Thanks to this, over a billion people from India to Burma [47:46.68] [47:46.76]benefit from the monsoon rain that this wind brings with it. [47:50.72] [47:51.68]Tibet is the engine [47:53.56] [47:53.64]that drives the fertility of a whole subcontinent. [47:57.36] [48:01.12]But Tibet has an even greater role in the ecology of the region. [48:05.08] [48:06.80]Clues to this function are found in a legend [48:09.12] [48:09.20]that pre-dates even the ancient Tibetan culture, [48:12.72] [48:12.80]and which still draws pilgrims from all over the world. [48:16.32] [48:22.92]Several world religions believe in a mythical mountain [48:26.36] [48:26.44]that's equivalent to the Garden of Eden. [48:29.44] [48:29.52]Its peak has four faces, aligned to the points of the compass, [48:34.52] [48:34.60]and from its summit four rivers are said to flow [48:36.96] [48:37.04]to the four quarters of the world. [48:39.48] [48:40.28]Thanks to its life-giving waters, [48:42.72] [48:42.80]this mountain is known as the axis of the world. [48:45.92] [48:48.68]In one of the remotest areas of Tibet [48:50.76] [48:50.84]there's a place where this legend takes physical form. [48:55.04] [48:55.12]That place is Mount Kailash. [48:57.64] [49:08.64]By an uncanny coincidence, Mount Kailash perfectly matches [49:12.48] [49:12.56]the legend of the mythical axis of the world. [49:16.08] [49:16.16]Its four faces are roughly aligned to the compass, [49:19.68] [49:19.76]and four major rivers flow from its foothills. [49:22.88] [49:27.20]These are some of the most significant rivers in Asia, [49:31.20] [49:31.28]the Yarlung, which becomes India's Brahmaputra, [49:34.92] [49:35.00]the Indus and Sutlej which flow to Pakistan, [49:38.76] [49:38.84]and the Karnali, a major feeder for the Ganges. [49:42.20] [49:47.72]Thanks to its connection with the mythical mountain, [49:50.92] [49:51.00]Kailash is so sacred that it's never been climbed. [49:55.56] [49:55.64]It's Tibet's most important pilgrimage site. [49:58.56] [50:01.44]For Tibetans, pilgrimage is a journey from ignorance to enlightenment. [50:06.24] [50:06.32]A pilgrimage around the sacred mountain [50:08.16] [50:08.24]is believed to wipe out the sins of a lifetime, [50:11.56] [50:11.64]increasing the chance of a better re-birth. [50:14.48] [50:19.12]Most pilgrims time their visit [50:20.88] [50:20.96]for the most important festival in the Tibetan calendar. [50:25.08] [50:25.16]For over 1,000 years they have gathered at the foot of Kailash [50:29.08] [50:29.16]for the Saga Dawa Festival to celebrate Buddha's enlightenment. [50:33.36] [50:36.76]The festival climaxes with the raising of the newly dressed altar, [50:40.80] [50:40.88]a 25-metre flagpole. [50:43.00] [50:58.68]The full entourage of Tibetan monks make the most of the occasion, [51:03.08] [51:03.16]with music, prayers and blessings. [51:05.72] [51:15.12]Hundreds of fresh prayer flags are prepared and added to the pole. [51:19.40] [51:25.16]The head lama's sacred scarf adds the final touch to the proceedings. [51:29.44] [51:31.20](CHANTING) [51:33.00] [51:36.72]But the significance of Mount Kailash isn't confined to Buddhists alone. [51:41.12] [51:42.24]Other faiths venture to this remote place, [51:45.56] [51:45.64]many from far beyond the Himalayas. [51:48.16] [51:50.76]Threatening to upstage the Buddhists, the Hindus arrive, [51:54.72] [51:54.80]adding their own mix of colour and music. [51:57.52] [52:12.20]When suitable respect has been paid, [52:14.76] [52:14.84]it's time for the newly dressed prayer pole to be raised. [52:18.44] [52:23.32](PEOPLE SHOUTING) [52:25.16] [52:35.00]The pole must end up straight or it will be a bad omen for Tibet. [52:40.44] [53:06.56]At last the pole stands true [53:09.04] [53:09.12]and the new prayers can be blown to the heavens. [53:12.76] [53:12.84]Around this point, the power of the Tibetan landscape [53:16.08] [53:16.16]and the beliefs of many cultures converge. [53:19.00] [53:22.44]More prayers, written on pieces of paper called wind horses, [53:25.96] [53:26.04]are thrown into the air [53:27.68] [53:27.76]and flutter upwards towards the peak of Kailash, [53:30.92] [53:31.00]where the gods of the different faiths are believed to reside. [53:34.80] [53:46.40]Here at the axis of the world, is a rare vision of harmony. [53:51.24] [53:58.44]For a few, there is one final but essential task to perform. [54:03.08] [54:05.32]Buddhists believe in the concept of rebirth, [54:08.44] [54:08.52]and at Kailash, the journey from one life to the next [54:12.24] [54:12.32]is marked with an ancient but outlandish ritual. [54:15.40] [54:17.12]Tibetans believe there's no need to keep or bury the bodies of their dead, [54:21.40] [54:21.48]since a departed life will already have kindled a new one elsewhere. [54:25.64] [54:29.04]The word for burial in Tibetan means "giving offerings to the birds", [54:34.88] [54:34.96]an act of generosity [54:36.64] [54:36.72]in line with the concept of compassion for all beings. [54:40.48] [54:44.88]By doing good deeds, [54:46.72] [54:46.80]Buddhists believe that they can contribute [54:48.68] [54:48.76]to the process of enlightenment. [54:51.48] [54:51.56]So a sky burial at Kailash contributes to a brighter future. [54:56.72] [55:14.72]There may be legends of mythical mountains and rivers [55:17.92] [55:18.00]that form the axis of the world. [55:21.12] [55:21.20]But the Tibetan plateau itself, with its mountains, glaciers and rivers, [55:26.52] [55:26.60]and as the engine that drives the monsoon, [55:29.36] [55:29.44]lays fair claim to being the real axis of the world. [55:33.40] [55:37.68]Apart from feeding the rivers of India and Pakistan, [55:41.60] [55:41.68]Tibet's glaciers are the source of even more great rivers. [55:45.92] [55:46.00]Vietnam's Mekong, Burma's Salween, [55:49.32] [55:49.40]and the Yangtze and the Yellow, both of which flow into China. [55:53.32] [55:57.32]Each year enough water flows from the Tibetan plateau [56:01.20] [56:01.28]to fill the entire Yellow River, [56:03.76] [56:03.84]the mother river of Chinese civilisation. [56:07.00] [56:07.08]Today in China alone, [56:09.20] [56:09.28]300 million people depend on water from the Tibetan plateau. [56:13.96] [56:25.80]With its profound effect on Asia's weather and water systems, [56:29.76] [56:29.84]the Tibetan plateau helps to sustain almost half of the world's population. [56:35.16] [56:38.68]For the moment at least. [56:40.64] [56:45.20]Close to the summit of Mount Everest, [56:47.60] [56:47.68]a forest of ice once covered much of the area. [56:50.84] [56:52.00]But now, thanks to climate change, much of it has gone. [56:56.76] [56:58.20]Within the next 30 years [57:00.08] [57:00.16]it's predicted that eighty percent of the Tibetan glaciers could disappear. [57:04.88] [57:06.64]In many ways, [57:08.12] [57:08.20]Tibet's fragile environment is the barometer of our world. [57:12.96] [57:13.04]What happens to it today, in time will affect us all. [57:18.20]

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