A Leisure Boom in Japan
My knees are shaking, my heart is beating wildly and my head is enclosed in a crash helmet (防撞頭盔) that seems much too thin. Balanced at the edge of a narrow white platform, I am about to jump head first into a hot new phase of Japan's leisure boom: indoor sky diving, without a parachute.
I am deep into second thoughts, but there is no backing out now. To get out, I would have to climb back down the narrow ladder from the tower and walk past the long row of "salarymen"(薪水階層)and "office ladies" lined up behind me at an amusement park (游樂園) named Tokyo Roof(東京屋頂).
Tokyo Roof is one of hundreds of amusement parks, sports centers, and resorts opening all over Japan as this hard-working nation brings its characteristic efficiency and intensity to the newly serious business of play.
There is a leisure boom in Japan, and like many national trends here it is largely a government-led phenomenon. Under pressure from the United States and other trading partners, who complain about the labor force working too much, Japan is working hard at the notion of working less hard.
Japanese workers labor about 200 more hours per year than the average of their American counterparts, according to figures from Japan's Labor Ministry. With school in session every weekday plus Saturday morning 10 months of the year, Japanese students have almost 60 more class days annually than their American peers.
But now government and big businesses are vigorously promoting the concept of "leisure". Some companies require employees to take longer vacations, and others are moving to eliminate the traditional Saturday workday so that people will get out and relax. But there is a problem for people with free time in a tightly packed country where land is dear: There aren't many places to play. Designing cities according to the traditional concept that hard work is a moral duty, those who rebuilt Japan after World War II left almost no room for recreation. Today, according to the Ministry of Construction, Tokyo has about 2.5 square meters of park for each resident.
To make up for the lack of public parks, the private sector is devising all sorts of new entries in the leisure market. They include: indoor ski resorts, with mountains made of crushed ice inside huge buildings complete with chair lifts and ski schools; indoor mountain-climbing centers, with artificial peaks and cliffs; all-night golf courses, with brightly colored balls and blinking red lights atop the flag stick; golf driving ranges layered four stories high in the heart of the city, with towering green nets to keep the balls from smashing windows in neighboring office buildings.
Scores of amusement parks have opened since Tokyo Disneyland arrived in 1983, and 200 more are proposed or under construction. Targeted at not only children but also young working singles, many amusement parks are pushing thrills. One Tokyo attraction has six roller coasters (環(huán)滑車道), which can spin 360 degrees, while whipping around the track.
And then there is Tokyo Roof, where I went sky diving indoors. Set up on a downtown parking lot, its entrance marked by a massive sign that reads, in English, "Good Music from Your Body Heart on the World Line", Tokyo Roof is a test market for new amusement park ideas. It offers video-imitated golf courses, a racetrack where customers can drive scale racecars, a movie theater where the seats roll and shake in accord with happenings on the screen. But its most popular attraction is the tall tower where I lined up.
For a fee of $15.60 per jump, Tokyo Roof rented me a flight suit, special shoes, gloves, earplugs(耳塞), a crash helmet, a face mask, a tooth guard and a safety harness (but no parachute).
Enclosed in this outfit, I waited in line for an hour with other adventurers, mostly office workers in their 20's. Finally it was my turn to climb the stairs and step out onto the narrow platform.
I was looking into a 6-meter-high cylinder(圓柱體) of netting with a wire net floor. Taking directions from my "coach", who was standing at the bottom of the tower, I tightened my helmet, closed my eyes and leaped into the air.
I found myself suspended in the middle of the air — held up by a 130-kilometer-an-hour blast of wind coming from an industrial-strength fan in the bottom of the tower. This is the trick that permits indoor, parachute-free "sky diving". To my tremendous relief, it worked.
For three minutes I flapped on the whistling, pounding, deafening column of wind. It did seem like sky diving, except that there is no diving involved; I floated at about the same level in the tower for the whole bone-shaking ride.
There was a bar hanging from the top of the tower, and I seized it for balance. I struggled uselessly to respond to the instructions of my coach, who was shouting above the roar of the fan to tell me how to ride the wind funnel up and down, left and right, by bending various limbs. Eventually I acquired just enough control to move over to the exit platform. With my blood pressure going crazy but my pride intact, I exited the tower, only slightly shaken after a thrilling encounter with the Japanese concept of leisure.
日本掀起了休閑熱
我的雙膝發(fā)抖,心狂跳不止,頭戴的防撞頭盔看上去似乎太單薄了。 我在一塊窄窄的白色跳板前端站穩(wěn),準備頭朝下跳出去。這一跳將跳進日本休閑熱中的一個嶄新的熱門項目:室內(nèi)蹦極跳,不帶降落傘的。
我得再好好想想,但現(xiàn)在已沒有退路了。 要出去,就得順著窄窄的梯子從高塔上往下爬,走過排在我后面的長長的一列"薪水階層"、"辦公室女郎"。這一切發(fā)生在一個叫做"東京屋頂"的游樂園里。
幾百家游樂園、體育中心、度假地在日本各地相繼開張,"東京屋頂"就是其中之一。日本這個勤勞的民族近來把游樂作為一件認真的事來做,體現(xiàn)了其典型的高效和激情。
日本掀起了休閑熱,就像這里的很多全國性潮流一樣,這也是在政府倡導下出現(xiàn)的。 美國以及日本其它的貿(mào)易伙伴抱怨日本勞工過分辛苦,在他們的壓力下,日本正努力推出干活不要那么拼命的觀念。
據(jù)日本勞動省的數(shù)據(jù),日本工人每年要比一般的美國工人多干200小時的活。 日本學校的上課時間為每周五天再加星期六上午,每年10個月,這樣,日本學生每年的上課日比他們的美國同齡人幾乎多60天。
但現(xiàn)在,政府和大企業(yè)都在大力提倡"休閑"這個概念。 一些公司要求雇員休較長的假期,另一些正在朝取消傳統(tǒng)的星期六工作日努力,以便人們可以出外放松。 但是在一個人口擁擠,土地昂貴的國家,有了閑暇的人們卻遇到了這樣一個問題: 沒有多少地方可供游玩。 二次大戰(zhàn)之后重建日本時城市規(guī)劃所依據(jù)的仍是傳統(tǒng)的勤奮工作的道德觀念,沒有為娛樂活動留下空間。 今天,據(jù)建設省說,東京居民人均擁有約2.5平方米的活動場地。
為了彌補公共活動場地的短缺,在休閑市場上私營企業(yè)正發(fā)明出各種各樣的新項目, 包括:室內(nèi)滑雪勝地,那兒有在大樓內(nèi)用壓碎的冰做成的山,還配有送滑雪者上山的升降椅,以及滑雪學校; 室內(nèi)登山中心,那兒有人造山峰與懸崖; 通宵高爾夫球場,那兒的球色彩明亮,旗桿頂上還有閃爍的小紅燈; 高爾夫練球場,它位于市中心,高達四層樓,上罩綠色的網(wǎng)以防球砸壞周圍辦公大樓的窗戶。
自從1983年建成東京迪斯尼樂園以來,已有幾十家游樂園開張,還有200家已提出計劃或正在建造。 很多游樂園推出的驚險項目不僅以兒童為目標,還瞄準了已有工作的年青單身族。 東京的一家游樂園里有6個環(huán)滑車道,能在沿著軌道快速滑行時,作360度旋轉。
還有這家我玩室內(nèi)蹦極跳的"東京屋頂"。 它建在市中心的一個停車場上,入口處有一巨大的招牌,上面用英文寫著"在世界線上從你心底發(fā)出的優(yōu)美音樂"(Good Music from Your Body Heart on the World Line)。" 東京屋頂"是各種新穎游樂園想法的試驗場。 那兒有錄像模仿的高爾夫球場,有賽車道供游客駕駛按比例縮小的賽車,還有一個電影院,里面的座椅可隨著銀幕上的場景而顛簸晃動。 不過那兒最吸引人的還是這個我排隊登上的高塔。
蹦極跳每次收費15.60美元,"東京屋頂" 租給我一套飛行服,特殊的鞋子、手套、耳塞、頭盔、面罩、護牙套、還有一套安全裝備(但是沒有降落傘)。
我包裹在這一身裝束里,與其他的歷險者一起排了一小時隊。他們大多是20多歲的辦公室職員。 終于輪到我爬上梯級,踏上狹窄的跳板了。
我的前方是一個六米高的網(wǎng)狀圓柱形空間,底部是金屬絲編成的網(wǎng)。 "教練"站在高塔下面指點,我照著他的話,緊了緊頭盔,閉上雙眼,縱身一躍。
我發(fā)現(xiàn)自己懸在了空中--高塔底部一架工業(yè)用強力風扇吹出時速達130公里的風柱將我拖起。 這就是室內(nèi)無傘蹦極跳得以進行的訣竅。 還真成了,這使我放下心來。
在這震耳欲聾地呼嘯轟鳴的風柱上我翻騰了三分鐘,感覺真像蹦極跳,只是沒有下跳而已。 在這驚心動魄的整個過程中,我在高塔內(nèi)幾乎差不多的高度上飄動。
高塔上垂下一根竿,我抓住它以求平衡。 教練的喊聲蓋過風扇的轟鳴,告訴我如何屈折各肢體來乘著風柱上下左右地飄動,我照著他說的毫無結果地折騰了一番。 最后,我總算掌握了一點控制要領,移到了退場的平臺上。 我出了高塔,血壓升高,不過保住了自尊。在驚心動魄地見識了日本式的休閑后,多少有些發(fā)怵。