德國的特朗普們：“親戚是沒法選的，對(duì)嗎？”

KALLSTADT, Germany — Herbert Trump did not want to talk about it. Neither did Ilse Trump. Ursula Trump, who runs the Trump bakery in the next village, eventually relented, palms upturned, and sighed: “You can’t choose your relatives, can you?”

德國卡爾斯塔特——赫伯特·特朗普不想聊這件事。伊爾莎·特朗普也不想聊。在隔壁村子開著一家特朗普面包房的烏爾蘇拉·特朗普最后心軟了，雙手一攤，嘆了口氣：“親戚是沒法選的，對(duì)吧?”

The relative in question is Donald J. Trump, president of the United States, multimillionaire, the most powerful man on the planet and a seventh cousin of Ursula Trump’s husband — though in Kallstadt, a sleepy village nestled in the rolling hills of Germany’s southwestern wine country, he is simply “Donald.”

這里所說的親戚是唐納德·J·特朗普，美國總統(tǒng)，億萬富翁，地球上權(quán)力最大的人，烏爾蘇拉·特朗普的丈夫隔著七代的表親——但在卡爾斯塔特，這個(gè)坐落在德國西南部酒鄉(xiāng)起伏丘陵間的寧靜村子，他只是“唐納德”。

That is not least to avoid confusion with the other Trumps (or “Droomps,” as the name is pronounced in Palatinate dialect) listed in a phone book for the area: Beate Trump, a podiatrist in another nearby village, for example, or Justin Trump, a teenager whose friends say he sometimes gets teased for his coif of orange-blond hair.

這不僅僅是為了避免與該地區(qū)的電話簿上列出的其他特朗普(或者如這個(gè)名字在巴拉丁方言中的發(fā)音“杜姆普”)混淆：比如另一個(gè)臨近村子里的足病診療師貝亞特·特朗普，或者一個(gè)叫賈斯廷·特朗普的少年，他的朋友們有時(shí)候會(huì)拿他那一頭偏橘黃色的金發(fā)開玩笑。

But the Weisenborns and the Geissels and the Benders and the Freunds in Kallstadt are related to Mr. Trump, too. “Practically half the village is,” chuckled Kallstadt’s mayor, Thomas Jaworek, before quickly adding: “I’m not.”

但在卡爾斯塔特，魏森博恩家、蓋塞爾家、本德爾家、弗羅因德家，也都是特朗普的親戚。“幾乎半個(gè)村子的人都是，”卡爾斯塔特的鎮(zhèn)長托馬斯·亞沃雷克(Thomas Jaworek)笑呵呵地說，不過他緊接著補(bǔ)充：“我跟他沒親戚關(guān)系。”

Both of Mr. Trump’s paternal grandparents, Friedrich and Elisabeth Trump, were born in Kallstadt, home now to 1,200 inhabitants. Growing up directly opposite each other, they were baptized in the village church and married a few miles down the road before immigrating to the United States.

特朗普的祖父母弗里德里希和伊麗莎白·特朗普都出生于卡爾斯塔特，這里現(xiàn)在生活著1200名居民。他們一起長大，在村子里的教堂受洗，在幾英里路程之外的一個(gè)地方結(jié)婚，然后移民去了美國。

By all accounts, Mr. Trump shares some key characteristics with his German grandfather, among them an interest in hair: Friedrich worked as a barber in New York before making his fortune running a restaurant and, reportedly, a brothel for gold diggers in the Yukon.

據(jù)大家說，特朗普與他的德國祖父有一些共同的關(guān)鍵特征，其中就包括對(duì)頭發(fā)的興趣：弗里德里希在紐約當(dāng)過理發(fā)師，后來開餐館發(fā)了財(cái)，也有人說還在育空地區(qū)開過一家妓院，做淘金者的生意。

Like his grandson, Friedrich was a teetotaler and avoided his military service. Though rather unlike him, he prided himself in paying taxes on the 80,000 marks he possessed in 1904 — the equivalent of a millionaire today — archival records show.

和他的孫子一樣，弗里德里希也是一個(gè)滴酒不沾的人，并且逃過兵役。不過他們之間還是有很大不同的，根據(jù)檔案記錄，他在1904年為自己擁有的8萬馬克(相當(dāng)于今天的百萬富翁)納稅而感到自豪。

In Protestant Kallstadt, where volunteers diligently tend communal flower beds and vintners have run a cooperative for 116 years, Friedrich Trump was a popular guy. Contemporaries described him as “polite,” a man who “lived quietly and withdrawn” and had an “unblemished way of life.”

卡爾斯塔特是個(gè)新教市鎮(zhèn)，在這里，志愿者辛勤地打理公共花壇，葡萄酒商經(jīng)營著一個(gè)有116年歷史的合作社，而弗里德里希·特朗普是一個(gè)受大家歡迎的人。同輩人說他“有禮貌”，是一個(gè)“安靜、沉默寡言”的人，“生活清清白白”。

Kallstadt’s relationship with Donald Trump is more troubled, which may explain why there are no signposts pointing to the ancestral Trump home, a modest property with a sloping roof and a blue gate on one of the main village roads, let alone a plaque.

卡爾斯塔特與唐納德·特朗普的關(guān)系，就沒那么風(fēng)平浪靜了，這或許可以解釋為什么這里沒有指明特朗普家祖屋的路標(biāo)，那是一棟普普通通的房子，位于村子里的其中一條主路上，它有著斜屋頂和藍(lán)色的大門;牌匾自然也是沒有的。

And even though the local tourism office celebrates the regional delicacy of pig stomach, and the fact that the church organ dates to the days of Johann Sebastian Bach, little, aside from the names on a few graves in the village cemetery, hints at Kallstadt’s most famous grandson.

另外，盡管當(dāng)?shù)氐穆糜尾块T高聲贊美豬肚這個(gè)地方美食，教堂的管風(fēng)琴歷史可以追溯到約翰·塞巴斯蒂安·巴赫(Johann Sebastian Bach)時(shí)代，但除了村子墓園里幾個(gè)墳?zāi)股系拿郑瑤缀蹩床坏绞裁丛诎凳究査顾剡@位最著名的子孫。

“We don’t use the name in any way in touristic marketing,” Jörg Dörr in the tourism office explained. “The topic is too controversial.”

“在旅游推廣中，我們根本沒有用過那個(gè)名字，”旅游辦公室的豪爾赫·德雷(Jörg Dörr)解釋說。“這個(gè)話題太有爭議了。”

Keeping a low profile has not kept the tourists or media away, nor the occasional Trump impersonator wandering up and down the street. On the contrary: “I have people peering through my window or knocking on my door all the time, asking ‘Where is the Trump house?’” lamented Manuela Müller-Wohler, who runs a nursery in Mr. Trump’s grandmother’s childhood home.

保持低調(diào)并沒能躲開游客和媒體的關(guān)注，偶爾還有特朗普的模仿者在街頭走來走去。相反，“有人從我家窗戶往里看，或者一直敲我的門，問‘特朗普家在哪里?’”曼努埃拉·穆勒—沃勒(Manuela Muller-Wohler)不滿地說;她在特朗普的祖母小時(shí)候住的房子里經(jīng)營著一家托兒所。

Sometimes she is so annoyed that she sends them the wrong way, or to the house of a neighbor she does not much like. The other day she wanted to do her weekly shopping, but her driveway was blocked by a tourist bus.

有時(shí)候她非常生氣，就給他們指一條錯(cuò)路，或者把他們指向她討厭的鄰居的房子。有一天，她想去做每周的例行購物，但她的車道被一輛旅游巴士堵住了。

Her neighbors opposite, who bought Mr. Trump’s grandfather’s house — and, like Ms. Müller-Wohler, did not know the history before the purchase — are so exasperated that they have tried, and failed, to sell.

她對(duì)面那個(gè)買下了特朗普祖父房子的鄰居和她一樣，在購買之前并不知道這段歷史，他非常惱怒，試圖出售房子，但沒有成功。

Like the man himself, Mr. Trump’s ancestral presence is disruptive.

就像特朗普本人一樣，特朗普祖先的存在也是極具破壞力的。

After his election, local hotels received boycott threats and some cancellations from longtime customers. Wine orders were called off. Emails arrived from all corners of Germany, challenging the “Trump village” to take a stance, Mayor Jaworek recalled.

特朗普當(dāng)選后，當(dāng)?shù)鼐频暝獾降种仆{，一些長期客戶取消了訂單。葡萄酒訂單也被取消了。亞沃雷克市長回憶說，電子郵件從德國各個(gè)角落抵達(dá)，逼著“特朗普村”表明立場(chǎng)。

If Kallstadt’s relationship with Mr. Trump is difficult, that appears to go both ways.

如果說卡爾斯塔特同特朗普之間的關(guān)系很不好，那么至少這不滿是雙向的。

“The Germans are bad, very bad,” Mr. Trump remarked during a meeting with European Union trade negotiators last year, complaining about Germany’s chronic trade surplus with the United States.

特朗普去年與歐盟貿(mào)易談判代表會(huì)晤時(shí)抱怨德國與美國的長期貿(mào)易順差，“德國人壞，非常壞”。

Mr. Trump even used to deny his German ancestry altogether, claiming that he had Swedish roots. (There is a Karlstad in Sweden.)

特朗普甚至曾經(jīng)完全否認(rèn)自己的德國血統(tǒng)，聲稱他有瑞典血統(tǒng)。(瑞典也有一個(gè)地方叫卡爾斯塔德。)

“Fake news,” commented Roland Paul, a local historian who was one of the first to research Mr. Trump’s German family.

“假新聞”，當(dāng)?shù)貧v史學(xué)家羅蘭·保羅(Roland Paul)評(píng)論說，他是第一個(gè)研究特朗普德國家族的人之一。

Mr. Trump’s grandfather left Kallstadt for the United States at age 16 in 1885, and returned in 1902 a rich man, Mr. Paul said. He married the girl next door, and the couple went back to America.

保羅說，特朗普的祖父于1885年16歲時(shí)離開卡爾斯塔特前往美國，并于1902年以富人身份衣錦還鄉(xiāng)。他和鄰家女孩結(jié)了婚，這對(duì)夫婦又回到了美國。

But soon Ms. Trump became homesick and wanted to go back to Germany. They returned, and her husband wrote a series of letters in 1904 and 1905 requesting the right to regain residency. Because he had not performed his military service, the Prince Regent of Bavaria refused.

但特朗普夫人很快就想家了，想回到德國。他們回來了，她的丈夫在1904年和1905年寫了一系列信件，要求重新獲得居住權(quán)。由于他沒有服兵役，被巴伐利亞攝政王拒絕了。

“We shall be ordered to leave?” Friedrich wrote after being informed that his visa would expire in July 1905. “That is hard, very hard for a family.”

“我們將被命令離開?”弗里德里希在得知他的簽證將于1905年7月到期后寫道。“這對(duì)一個(gè)家庭來說很難，很難。”

For some here, there is paradox in that history.

對(duì)于這里的一些人來說，這段歷史有其吊詭的一面。

Since Mr. Trump’s election, Mr. Geissel said, “everyone has been trying to work out how closely related they are to Trump.”

自特朗普當(dāng)選以來，蓋塞爾說，“每個(gè)人都在努力弄清楚他們與特朗普的親戚關(guān)系有多密切。”

This can sometimes lead to curious exchanges. Bernd Weisenborn, whose great-grandmother Barbara was also a sister of Friedrich Trump, was serving a local customer in his restaurant shortly after Mr. Trump quit the Paris climate accord.

這有時(shí)會(huì)導(dǎo)致古怪的交流。伯恩德·魏森博恩(Bernd Weisenborn)的曾祖母芭芭拉(Barbara)也是弗里德里希·特朗普的姊妹，特朗普退出巴黎氣候協(xié)議后不久，他在自己的餐廳接待了一位當(dāng)?shù)仡櫩汀?/p>

“Look what your relative is up to again,” the customer said.

“看看你的親戚又做了什么，”這位顧客說。

“He is your relative, too!” Mr. Weisenborn shot back.

“他也是你的親戚!”魏森博恩反擊道。

Now Kallstadt is alive with rumors that the president himself may visit.

現(xiàn)在卡爾斯塔特還有傳言說，總統(tǒng)本人可能會(huì)來這里訪問。

In January, the mayor met with the United States general consul, who wanted to see the Trump house and, over pig stomach and grape juice, announced that he would send the ambassador to visit next.

1月，市長會(huì)見了美國總領(lǐng)事?？傤I(lǐng)事希望參觀特朗普家的房子，并且就著豬肚和葡萄汁，宣布下次他將派大使前往參觀。

And when Chancellor Angela Merkel visited Mr. Trump at the White House in April, she gave him a map of the Palatinate region where Kallstadt is.

4月，當(dāng)總理安格拉·默克爾在白宮拜訪特朗普先生時(shí)，她給了他一張普法爾茨地區(qū)的地圖，也就是卡爾斯塔特的所在地。

All recent American presidents have visited the Ramstein air base, the headquarters for United States troops in Europe, a mere 45-minute drive away, Mayor Jaworek pointed out.

亞沃雷克市長指出，最近幾任美國總統(tǒng)都參觀過拉姆施泰因(Ramstein)空軍基地，這是美國駐歐洲部隊(duì)的總部，距離卡爾斯塔特僅45分鐘車程。

But if the president comes, he might be the only Trump around.

但如果總統(tǒng)要來，他可能是這里唯一的一個(gè)“特朗普“。

“I think I’m going to go on holiday,” Ursula Trump said.

“(如果總統(tǒng)要來，)我想，那我將會(huì)出去度假，“烏爾蘇·拉特朗普說。