國(guó)宴上，“閃閃發(fā)光”的第一夫人梅拉尼婭

In the end she played the part, donned the costume — and gave everyone something to chew on.

到最后，她扮演了屬于自己的角色，穿上了戲服——并且?guī)Ыo所有人一些值得回味的東西。

Melania Trump, who orchestrated the first state dinner of the Trump administration — the most fancy ceremonial evening since the inauguration — stood next to her husband and welcomed President Emmanuel Macron of France and his wife, Brigitte, while wearing a Chanel haute couture dress of black Chantilly lace, hand-painted with silver, and embroidered with crystal and sequins.

梅拉尼婭·特朗普(Melania Trump)籌辦了特朗普政府的第一次國(guó)宴——這是自就職典禮以來(lái)最盛大的典禮晚宴——她站在丈夫身邊，身穿綴著黑色尚蒂伊蕾絲、帶有銀色手繪圖案、繡著水晶和亮片的香奈兒(Chanel)高級(jí)定制連衣裙，歡迎法國(guó)總統(tǒng)埃馬紐埃爾·馬克龍(Emmanuel Macron)和他的妻子布麗吉特(Brigitte)。

Melania Trump’s dress looked kind of like sparkling sleeveless body armor and reflected a desire to pay homage to the guests of honor and what may be a new “special relationship” (identified thus by President Donald Trump earlier in the day while brushing what he identified as dandruff off Macron’s shoulders). Chanel is, after all, a brand that is almost synonymous with French fashion, and couture, a specific segment of the fashion industry that exists formally only in France.

梅拉尼婭·特朗普的服裝看上去有點(diǎn)像閃閃發(fā)光的無(wú)袖鎧甲，表現(xiàn)出向貴賓致敬的愿望，以及一種可能的新型“特殊關(guān)系”(這是唐納德·特朗普總統(tǒng)當(dāng)天早些時(shí)候說(shuō)的，順便還從馬克龍肩上撣去他以為是頭皮屑的東西)。畢竟，香奈兒幾乎是法國(guó)時(shí)尚的同義詞，而高級(jí)定制服裝這個(gè)門(mén)類(lèi)，嚴(yán)格來(lái)講只存在于法國(guó)時(shí)尚業(yè)。

It was the first time Melania Trump had worn Chanel at a major public occasion since becoming first lady, and one of the rare times that a first lady’s office has advertised the fact she was wearing couture.

這是梅拉尼婭·特朗普自成為第一夫人以來(lái)第一次在重大公眾場(chǎng)合身穿香奈兒，第一夫人辦公室也罕見(jiàn)地宣傳了她身穿高級(jí)定制時(shí)裝的事實(shí)。

Her predecessor, Michelle Obama, often had dresses altered to her specifications — and wore an Atelier Versace chain mail couture gown to her final state dinner with then-Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi — but couture is a sector unto itself, rooted in French history, unabashedly elite, and symbolic of what is known with pride as “savoir-faire,” or know-how.

她的前任米歇爾·奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)經(jīng)常按照自己的要求修改服裝，她在最后一次國(guó)宴上會(huì)見(jiàn)時(shí)任意大利總理馬泰奧·倫齊(Matteo Renzi)時(shí)，穿了范思哲高定(Atelier Versace)鏈甲禮服——但高定時(shí)裝本身是一個(gè)根植于法國(guó)歷史的行業(yè)，帶有毫不掩飾的精英色彩，象征著充滿(mǎn)自豪感的所謂“精湛技藝”。

It is also handmade to order, exists only as one-offs, and comes complete with prices that can run into the six digits. Melania Trump, for example, seems to have taken what was originally a jumpsuit from the Chanel spring 2018 couture collection and had it remade as a dress.

高定時(shí)裝是依據(jù)訂單由手工制作的，僅此一件，價(jià)格可以達(dá)到六位數(shù)。例如，這一次梅拉尼婭·特朗普似乎借鑒了原本屬于香奈兒2018春夏女裝系列中的連身褲，并將其改造成連衣裙。

But in a world of Trumpian excess, where the first lady once wore a coat that cost $51,500, maybe such a willingness to spend should have been expected (besides, the dress can be donated to the national archive by the designer, which defrays the cost). Melania Trump has always been unapologetic about the price of her clothes, and this gown had a dual purpose.

但在特朗普式的奢華世界里，第一夫人曾穿過(guò)價(jià)值51500美元的外套，也許有這樣的大手筆是可以預(yù)料的(此外，這件衣服可以由設(shè)計(jì)師捐贈(zèng)給國(guó)家檔案館，以此來(lái)沖抵成本)。梅拉尼婭·特朗普一直對(duì)她衣服的價(jià)格毫無(wú)愧疚之意，這件禮服也有著雙重目的。

As Louise Linton, wife of the Treasury secretary, Steven Mnuchin, said when she and her husband made their entrance, she was excited for “everything French!”

正如財(cái)政部長(zhǎng)史蒂文·努欽(Steven Mnuchin)的妻子露易絲·林頓(Louise Linton)在出席宴會(huì)時(shí)所說(shuō)，“法國(guó)的一切!”都讓她興奮不已。

There was something ironic about the fact she said that while wearing a silver beaded gown from Roberto Cavalli, an Italian brand designed by an Englishman, but it may not have occurred to her.

有一件事很有諷刺意味，當(dāng)她這么說(shuō)的同時(shí)，身上穿的卻是由英國(guó)人設(shè)計(jì)的意大利品牌羅伯特·卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)的銀色珠串禮服，但她可能想不到這回事。

In any case, Melania Trump’s decision to wear Chanel was smart, given that her counterpart, Brigitte Macron, had her entire trip wardrobe made by Louis Vuitton.

不管怎么說(shuō)，梅拉尼婭·特朗普決定穿香奈兒都是很聰明的，因?yàn)樗龑?duì)面的法國(guó)第一夫人布麗吉特·馬克龍的出行穿著完全由路易威登(Louis Vuitton)包辦。

“It is a huge honor for me to see Brigitte Macron wearing my designs while on this trip,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton. “I love her style and fashion sensibility,” which now represents her country.

“看到布麗吉特·馬克龍?jiān)谶@次旅行中穿著我的設(shè)計(jì)，我感到非常榮幸，”路易威登的藝術(shù)總監(jiān)尼古拉斯·格斯基耶爾(Nicolas Ghesquière)說(shuō)。“我喜歡她的風(fēng)格和時(shí)尚敏感度，”而現(xiàn)在這也代表了她的國(guó)家。

Vuitton is, of course, another ur-French brand that happens to be owned by Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Arnault, said to be the richest man in France, and his wife, Hélène, were at the dinner; he was one of the first businessmen to visit Donald Trump at Trump Tower after his election. Given that LVMH owns Dior and Givenchy, brands favored by Hélène Arnault, it is probably a good thing Melania Trump avoided them, too.

當(dāng)然，路易威登也是一個(gè)殿堂級(jí)法國(guó)品牌，恰好歸LVMH酩悅·軒尼詩(shī)-路易威登集團(tuán)(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton)的董事長(zhǎng)貝爾納·阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)所有。被認(rèn)為是法國(guó)首富的阿爾諾的妻子伊蓮(Hélène)也出席了國(guó)宴;唐納德·特朗普當(dāng)選后，阿爾諾是到特朗普大廈去拜訪(fǎng)他的首批商人之一。鑒于LVMH擁有伊蓮·阿爾諾青睞的品牌迪奧(Dior)和紀(jì)梵希(Givenchy)，梅拉尼婭·特朗普避開(kāi)這些品牌或許是件好事。

That left it to Ivanka Trump to represent American fashion, which she did in a pink tulle and Swiss dot Rodarte confection. Otherwise the clothes were relatively low-key.

因此伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)成了國(guó)宴上美國(guó)時(shí)裝的代表，她靠一件帶瑞士圓點(diǎn)的粉紅色薄紗羅達(dá)特(Rodarte)禮服做到了這一點(diǎn)。除此之外，衣服本身相對(duì)低調(diào)。

Jerry Hall showed up with Rupert Murdoch in bright sapphire blue; Nancy Kissinger, Karen Pence and Sarah Huckabee Sanders in black lace. Christine Schwarzman, who will soon be standing atop the Metropolitan Museum of Art steps with her husband, Stephen, as one of the hosts of the Met Gala, wore white opera gloves.

一身寶藍(lán)色裙裝的杰瑞·霍爾(Jerry Hall)與魯珀特·默多克(Rupert Murdoch)一起出席;南希·基辛格(Nancy Kissinger)、凱倫·彭斯(Karen Pence)和莎拉·哈克比·桑德斯(Sarah Huckabe Sanders)都穿了黑色蕾絲。克里斯汀·施瓦茨曼(Christine Schwarzman)戴了白色的歌劇手套，這位大都會(huì)藝術(shù)博物館慈善舞會(huì)(Met Gala)主持人之一不久將與丈夫蘇世民(Stephen Schwarzman)一起出現(xiàn)在大都會(huì)臺(tái)階頂端。

It was the first lady who stood out in her glinting metallic gown, just as she had earlier in the day, with a broad-brimmed white hat that shadowed her face and matched her white suit with its military mien. And as she had on Day 1 of the French visit, in the black cape she wore to Mount Vernon.

最搶眼的是一身閃閃發(fā)光的金屬質(zhì)感禮服的第一夫人，當(dāng)天早些時(shí)候也是這樣，當(dāng)時(shí)她的寬邊白色帽子遮住了面孔，有著和身上的白套裝相稱(chēng)的軍服風(fēng)格。在法國(guó)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人訪(fǎng)問(wèn)的第一天，她在弗農(nóng)山莊所穿的黑色披風(fēng)同樣醒目。

Though each garment came from a different designer, together they created the impression of a woman who has found the glamour in self-protection, and who is gradually tailoring the unwritten rules of her role to her own specifications. Creating her own recipe, as it were.

雖然每件服裝都來(lái)自不同的設(shè)計(jì)師，但它們一起打造了一個(gè)女人的印象，這個(gè)女人已經(jīng)從自我保護(hù)之中發(fā)現(xiàn)了魅力，并且逐漸將個(gè)人角色的不成文規(guī)則按照她自己的需求進(jìn)行修整。可以說(shuō)是在創(chuàng)造自己的配方。