In the often unheated buildings of the middle ages, long gowns were necessary for scholars to ward off the cold.
在中世紀,房屋里一般不具備取暖設備,長袍成為了學子們避寒的必需品。
Academic dress for graduations started in the 12th and 13th centuries when universities first began forming. Whether a student or a teacher, standard dress for scholars was clerical garb. Most medieval scholars had made certain vows, and had at least taken minor orders with the church so clerical robes were their main form of dress to begin with.
畢業(yè)生穿著的學位服起源于大學形成初期的12至13世紀。當時無論學生還是老師,學者的標準服飾是牧師的衣裝。大多數中世紀學者都要進行某種宣誓,并且起碼舉行一些宗教儀式,所以牧師的長袍成為早期學位服的主要形式。
In 1321, the University of Coimbra mandated that all Doctors, Bachelors, and Licentiates must wear gowns. In the latter half of the 14th century, excess in apparel was forbidden in some colleges and prescribed wearing a long gown. By the time of England's Henry VIII, Oxford and Cambridge began using a standard form of academic dress, which was controlled to the tiniest detail by the university.
在1321年,孔伯拉大學要求所有的博士、學士和碩士必須穿長袍。在隨后的14世紀中葉,一些學院禁止過度花哨的服裝,并且規(guī)定穿長袍。在英國亨利八世時期,牛津和劍橋大學開始采用一種標準款式的學位服,這是大學做出的最細微的規(guī)定。
Not until the late 1800s were colors assigned to signify certain areas of study, but they were only standardized in the United States. European institutions have always had diversity in their academic dress, but American institutions employ a definite system of dress thanks to Gardner Cotrell Leonard from Albany, New York. After designing gowns for his 1887 class at Williams College, he took an interest in the subject and published an article on academic dress in 1893. Soon after he was asked to work with an Intercollegiate Commission to form a system of academic apparel.
直到1800年,顏色才被用到學位服上預示著某一類學科,但是他們在美國是整齊劃一的。歐洲的大學經常有不同種類的學位服,拜紐約奧爾巴尼的加德納•科特爾•倫納德所賜,美國的大學采用了一套規(guī)格確定的學位服。在為1887年的畢業(yè)班設計出長袍學位服后,他對這一領域產生了興趣并且于1893年發(fā)表了一篇關于學位服的文章。不久,他被任命到校際委員會來規(guī)劃一套學位服。
The system Gardner Cotrell Leonard helped form was based on gown cut, style and fabric; as well as designated colors to represent fields of study. For example green was the color of medieval herbs, and was assigned to medical studies. Because olive is close to green, was designated for pharmaceutical studies.
加德納•科特爾•倫納德設計形成的學位服系統(tǒng)建立在長袍的裁剪、款式和面料上,同時指定不同顏色代表某一學科。比如綠色是中草藥的顏色,于是綠色就被運用到醫(yī)學上。因為橄欖接近綠色,橄欖色就被運用到藥學上。
In 1959, the American Council on Education had a Committee on Academic Costumes and Ceremonies review the costume code and make changes. In 1986, the committee changed the code to clarify the use of dark blue for a Doctor of Philosophy (Ph.D.)
在1959年,美國教育理事會指派負責學位服和畢業(yè)儀式的委員會對學位服飾規(guī)格進行審查評估,并做出了改變。在1986年,委員會改變了服飾規(guī)格,明確了哲學博士使用深藍色的學位服。
The shape and size of the hood and the sleeve design of the gown show the degree a student pursued: a Bachelor's Degree gown has pointed sleeves and no hood, a Master's Degree gown had long, closed sleeves with arm slits and a narrow hood, and a Doctor's Degree had bell-shaped sleeves and a draped, wide hood.
學位長袍中披肩布和袖子的形狀、尺寸標志著該名學生獲得的學位:學士學位服的袖口是尖的,并且沒有披肩,碩士學位服的袖子長而且緊,在臂膀出有縫隙,有一個較窄的披肩,博士學位服的袖子是鐘形的,較寬松的披肩圍成一圈。
The color of the hood's lining tells which college or university the degree was given by. For example: Harvard is crimson, Temple is cherry and white, and Cornell is purple and white. However, other than the lining, the hood must be black.
披肩的襯里顏色表明了是哪所學院或大學授予的學位。比如:哈佛大學是赤紅色的,天普大學是櫻桃色和白色,康奈爾大學是紫色和白色,然而,除了襯里,披肩的其他部分必須是黑色的。
The field of study is designated by the color of the hood's facing. For example: Theology is scarlet, Arts Letters and Humanities are white, and Music is pink.各學科領域由披肩飾面的顏色來指定。例如:神學是猩紅色的,藝術與人文學科是白色的,音樂學是粉色的。
Caps should only be made of black cotton poplin, broadcloth, rayon, or silk, to match gown they are to be used with. Velvet may only be used for a doctor's degree.
學位帽只能由黑色純棉府綢、絨面、人造絲或絲綢制成,來和各類長袍匹配。絲絨一般只用于博士學位。
Tassels should be fastened to the middle of the cap's top and allowed to lie where it will. It should be black, or the color of field of study, unless it is for a doctor's degree in which case is may be gold.
流蘇應當系在學位帽頂的中間部位并使之自然下垂。流蘇應為黑色或者是該學科的顏色,而博士學位的流蘇可以是金黃色的。