從農(nóng)場(chǎng)到餐桌：就地取材的新潮臺(tái)灣美食

Taipei has always been a city where one doesn’t have to work hard to eat awfully well: It has a street food scene as vibrant as that of Bangkok; restaurants that specialize in both Taiwanese and regional cuisines from around China; thousands of cheap and cheerful joints at which to drink cold beer with small plates and quick stir-fries; and a plethora of sushi bars, a remnant of decades spent under Japanese rule.

臺(tái)北向來(lái)是一個(gè)不用太費(fèi)勁就能吃得很好的城市：街邊小吃的場(chǎng)面熱鬧非凡，堪比曼谷;餐廳中既有擅長(zhǎng)臺(tái)灣菜的，又有擅長(zhǎng)大陸各地的地方菜的;價(jià)格親民、氣氛活躍的大排檔成千上萬(wàn)，在這里可以用小菜和迅速上桌的炒菜搭配冰鎮(zhèn)啤酒;還有大量壽司餐廳，體現(xiàn)了臺(tái)灣被日本統(tǒng)治數(shù)十年的歷史。

It’s easier than ever to enjoy those qualities, largely thanks to a crop of chefs drawing inspiration from homegrown ingredients: cured mullet roe, lily stems, purple taro, pork from local black pig. Taiwan offers possibilities for farm-to-table dining that don’t exist in Singapore and Hong Kong. Surrounded by clean waters and dotted with mountains and fertile plains, with more than 20 microclimates and a deeply embedded small farming tradition recently given new life by urbanites going back to the land, Taiwan places agricultural bounty within easy reach of diners in the capital.

現(xiàn)在，享受這些優(yōu)質(zhì)美食比以往任何時(shí)候都更容易。這主要?dú)w功于一批從本土食材中汲取靈感的廚師：經(jīng)過(guò)腌制的烏魚(yú)子、百合花莖、紫芋頭和當(dāng)?shù)氐暮谪i肉。臺(tái)灣為新加坡和香港所沒(méi)有的“從農(nóng)場(chǎng)到餐桌”餐飲提供了可能性。這里四周是干凈的水域，島上分布著山巒和肥沃的平原，有20多種局部小氣候。最近，回歸土地的城里人又給一種源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)的小農(nóng)耕種傳統(tǒng)注入了新的生命。因此，臺(tái)灣讓臺(tái)北就餐者輕輕松松便能享用到豐富的農(nóng)產(chǎn)品。

“Now everyone is talking about local ingredients,” the Taiwanese chef André Chiang said. “We have everything here, and we should be proud of it.” Serving ingredient-focused contemporary Taiwanese cuisine, Chiang’s 2-year-old RAW is just one of a growing number of restaurants, ranging from casual to upscale, that are riding the wave of a growing “eat local” movement.

“現(xiàn)在，人人都在說(shuō)起本地食材，”臺(tái)灣主廚江振誠(chéng)(André Chiang)說(shuō)。“我們這里什么都有，我們應(yīng)該感到驕傲。”他的RAW餐廳供應(yīng)注重食材的當(dāng)代臺(tái)灣美食，開(kāi)業(yè)已有兩年。隨著“吃在地”(指食用當(dāng)?shù)厥巢?mdash;—譯注)運(yùn)動(dòng)日漸發(fā)展，搭乘這股浪潮的餐廳也越來(lái)越多，從普通餐廳到高端餐廳，RAW只是其中之一。

RAW

RAW餐廳

Anchored by a sinuous cloud-shaped bar hand-carved from two colossal hunks of pine, the dining room at RAW is cavernous and murky, strikingly backlit by a semiopen kitchen. Instagram-friendly pin lights illuminate tables, which are set far apart and have hidden drawers for flatware.

在RAW餐廳，吧臺(tái)在就餐大廳中占據(jù)中重要位置。吧臺(tái)由兩塊大松木手工雕刻而成，形狀起伏有致，像云彩一樣。就餐大廳的環(huán)境幽深昏暗，燈光從背后的半開(kāi)放式廚房發(fā)出，令人印象深刻。便于拍照的射燈照亮了餐桌。餐桌之間相距甚遠(yuǎn)，還設(shè)計(jì)了用于放置餐具的隱形抽屜。

The seasonal set menu of eight courses and a few smaller bites (with optional wine pairings), eschews dish names in favor of shortened ingredient lists (‘Taiwan’ Rice Pork Mushroom, no commas). Chiang, who worked in France before he opened Singapore’s acclaimed Restaurant André, where he spends most of his time, devises the menu at RAW with two Taiwanese chefs, Zor Tan and Alain Huang.

時(shí)令套餐菜單上有八道菜和一些小吃(以及可選擇搭配的葡萄酒)。菜單上沒(méi)有寫(xiě)菜名，而是簡(jiǎn)單列出了食材(如“臺(tái)灣”米飯豬肉蘑菇，中間沒(méi)有逗號(hào))。江振誠(chéng)曾在法國(guó)工作過(guò)一段時(shí)間，后來(lái)在新加坡開(kāi)了備受稱(chēng)贊的安德烈餐廳(Restaurant André)。他大部分時(shí)間都在安德烈餐廳，同另外兩名臺(tái)灣廚師陳將停(Zor Tan)和黃以倫(Alain Huang)一起設(shè)計(jì)RAW餐廳的菜單。

Every dish on the menu is Taiwanese “in form, structure, color or flavor,” Chiang said. A skewered baby corn cob coated with kernels from a mature cob and slicked with deeply smoky barbecue sauce winked at the sort of fare you might find in Taipei’s night markets, while Beef Tongue Cracker, an oblong crisp with shavings of velvety ox tongue arranged atop a smear of caramelized onions, confit egg yolk with vinegar for dipping, was a sly nod to ox tongue crackers, a classic Taiwanese snack named for their shape. That Rice Pork Mushroom dish? Pure comfort food, served steaming and fragrant in a miniature clay pot, grains glistening with lard, infused with fungal earthiness and enhanced with chunks of tender meat.

江振誠(chéng)說(shuō)，菜單上的每一道菜“在形式、結(jié)構(gòu)、顏色和味道上”都是臺(tái)灣特色的。把小玉米芯串起來(lái)，在外面放上成熟的玉米粒，再刷上一層煙熏味厚重的烤肉調(diào)味醬，看上去像那種也許會(huì)在臺(tái)灣夜市上發(fā)現(xiàn)的食物。而B(niǎo)eef Tongue Cracker則和得名于其形狀的臺(tái)灣經(jīng)典小吃牛舌餅有關(guān)。在一個(gè)長(zhǎng)方形的脆餅上，切碎的細(xì)嫩牛舌被放在一層焦糖洋蔥上面，還配有油封蛋黃和可供蘸食的醋。那道米飯豬肉蘑菇呢?是一道能給人帶來(lái)純粹滿(mǎn)足感的美食。盛放在小砂鍋里端上桌時(shí)熱氣直冒，香味四溢，飯粒閃著油光，空氣中彌漫著菌類(lèi)的泥土氣息，大塊豬肉口感細(xì)嫩，進(jìn)一步增強(qiáng)了食客的享受。

At a nearby table an elegantly dressed Taiwanese woman, obviously perplexed by a shallow bowl containing a single sheet of dried squid, laughed aloud as it separated into curly noodles when a server poured hot kombu broth over. She ate every bite.

在附近一張餐桌上，一名著裝優(yōu)雅的臺(tái)灣女子明顯對(duì)一個(gè)淺碗感到不解。碗里放著一片干魷魚(yú)。但當(dāng)服務(wù)員倒進(jìn)熱海帶湯，魷魚(yú)片溶進(jìn)卷曲的面條中時(shí)，她大聲笑了起來(lái)。最后，她吃得一口不剩。

RAW, No. 301 Le Qun Third Road; 886-2-8501-5800; raw.com.tw. Lunch and dinner tasting menu, 2,680 Taiwanese dollars (about $87) per person, plus 10 percent service charge.

RAW餐廳地址：樂(lè)群3路301號(hào);電話(huà)：886-2-8501-5800;網(wǎng)址：raw.com.tw。午餐和晚餐品鑒菜單2680臺(tái)幣(約合600元人民幣)一位，外加10%服務(wù)費(fèi)。

Tairroir

態(tài)芮餐廳

Tairroir, which opened last May on the sixth floor of a building next to RAW, is, in appearance at least, its polar opposite: intimate (just eight tables) and elegant (white-on-white dining room, sleek copper bar). The French training of Kai Ho, the Taiwanese chef, is reflected in both his restaurant’s name (a mix of Taiwan and terroir) and in refined plating, with color and texture highlighted in smears, dabs, dots and drizzles.

去年5月開(kāi)業(yè)的態(tài)芮(Tairroir)就在挨著RAW餐廳的那棟樓的六樓。它至少看上去和RAW餐廳截然相反：寧?kù)o怡人(只有八張餐桌)、優(yōu)雅精致(在白底上裝飾白色花樣的就餐大廳，雅致的銅制吧臺(tái))。臺(tái)灣主廚何順凱(Kai Ho)接受的法式訓(xùn)練既反映在了餐廳的名字(Taiwan[臺(tái)灣]和terroir[水土]兩個(gè)詞的結(jié)合)上，也體現(xiàn)在了精致的擺盤(pán)上。態(tài)芮的擺盤(pán)強(qiáng)調(diào)通過(guò)小細(xì)節(jié)突出食物的色澤和質(zhì)感。

But Ho is quick to add: “I’m not French. I’m Taiwanese. And I do my own thing.” The result is a set menu (six or eight courses) that crosses Taiwanese ingredients with French technique.

但何順凱很快補(bǔ)充說(shuō)：“我不是法國(guó)人。我是臺(tái)灣人。我做的是自己的東西。”成果便是一份讓臺(tái)灣食材和法國(guó)技巧相結(jié)合的套餐菜單(六或八道菜)。

During my lunch only one dish, warm pumpkin purée accompanied by buttery mushroom brioche, bowed toward the west; others were unequivocally Taiwanese in spirit if not form. In Ho’s hands taro cake, a Chinese New Year favorite, became a spoonable mash to be stirred together with a sous-vide egg, the combination’s richness cut by dried sakura shrimp and crispy shallots.

在我的午餐里，只有溫潤(rùn)南瓜泥配黃油蘑菇甜面包這道菜是西式的，其他菜即便在形式上不是，也明顯具有臺(tái)灣菜的內(nèi)在。在何順凱手中，人們最喜歡的春節(jié)美食芋頭糕成了糊狀，需用勺子和一個(gè)用真空低溫的方式制作的雞蛋一起拌著吃。干櫻花蝦和鮮脆的青蔥則讓這道把芋頭和雞蛋合二為一的美食口感更加豐富。

A magnificent dessert combined moist purple cakes tasting of concentrated blueberries with a powerfully lemony mousseline, bracingly tart yogurt “snow” and honeycombed pong tang, a traditional Taiwanese hard candy.

藍(lán)莓味道醇厚的紫色松軟蛋糕與有著強(qiáng)烈檸檬味道的慕斯、令人心曠神怡的用酸奶做的“雪”和呈蜂巢狀的碰糖融相結(jié)合，成就了一道華麗的甜品。碰糖是臺(tái)灣的一種傳統(tǒng)硬糖。

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, Ho said he’s “not as hard-core as some chefs. I’m not at the farm every day.” But he estimates that about 90 percent of what he uses in the kitchen is local; on the day we met he was excitedly planning a visit to a fish farmer in nearby Yilan county to investigate a tip about local caviar.

說(shuō)到食材的采購(gòu)，何順凱自稱(chēng)“不像一些廚師那么固執(zhí)。我不是每天都在農(nóng)場(chǎng)”。但他估計(jì)，他在廚房里使用的食材大約90%產(chǎn)自當(dāng)?shù)亍Ｎ覀円?jiàn)面那一天，他正在興奮地計(jì)劃去鄰近的宜蘭縣拜訪一個(gè)養(yǎng)魚(yú)人，為的是調(diào)查一個(gè)有關(guān)當(dāng)?shù)氐聂~(yú)子醬的消息。

Tairroir, 6F, No. 299 Le Qun Third Road; 886-2-8501-5500; tairroir.com. Tasting menu (lunch) 1,650 or 2,350 Taiwanese dollars and (dinner) 3,200 or 5,000 dollars per person, plus 10 percent service charge.

態(tài)芮餐廳地址：樂(lè)群3路299號(hào)6樓;電話(huà)：886-2-8501-5500;網(wǎng)址：tairroir.com。品鑒菜單午餐1650或2350臺(tái)幣一位，晚餐3200臺(tái)幣或5000臺(tái)幣一位，外加10%服務(wù)費(fèi)。

MUME

MUME

MUME, which opened around the same time as RAW and shares its capital-letters-only naming approach (mume is the botanical name for the plum blossom, Taiwan’s national flower), channels a Nordic sensibility, with a cozy dining room gently lit by the glow of a marble bar and Scandinavian-style bentwood chairs flanking tables lit by low-hanging pendant lights. “Modern European casual fine dining,” in the words of Richie Lin, an owner and one of three chefs, captures the spirit of the place — elegant and suitable for a special night out, welcoming and wallet-friendly enough to be your neighborhood hangout.

MUME和RAW餐廳大致同時(shí)開(kāi)業(yè)，起名方式也一樣，字母全部大寫(xiě)(mume是代表臺(tái)灣的梅花的植物學(xué)名)。MUME帶來(lái)了一種斯堪的納維亞風(fēng)情。就餐大廳環(huán)境舒適，大理石吧臺(tái)發(fā)出柔和的光芒，斯堪的納維亞風(fēng)格的曲木椅子擺放在餐桌兩側(cè)，頭頂是低懸的吊燈。用餐廳老板兼主廚林泉(Richie Lin)的話(huà)來(lái)說(shuō)，這個(gè)地方體現(xiàn)的正是“現(xiàn)代的歐洲輕松高級(jí)餐廳”的精神：環(huán)境典雅，適合有特殊意義的晚餐，同時(shí)足夠熱情和經(jīng)濟(jì)實(shí)惠，適合你走出家門(mén)常去光顧。

After Mr. Lin experienced some frustration with the scarcity of local ingredients in Hong Kong, where he was born and had worked (he grew up in Canada), Taiwan appealed as fertile ground on which to pursue his goal of cooking with the seasons, alongside two other expat chefs: Kai Ward (Australian) and Long Xiong (American). MUME is “a chance to discover what is unique and special about Taiwan,” he said, “and to showcase it to the world.”

林泉在香港出生，并曾在那里工作過(guò)一段時(shí)間(他在加拿大長(zhǎng)大)。在他因香港當(dāng)?shù)厥巢亩倘倍械绞?，臺(tái)灣這片沃土吸引了他。在這里，他同另外兩名外籍主廚凱·沃德(Kai Ward，澳大利亞籍)和熊龍(Long Xiong，美籍)追求著用時(shí)令食材烹制美食的目標(biāo)。MUME是“一個(gè)發(fā)現(xiàn)臺(tái)灣獨(dú)一無(wú)二的特別之處，”他說(shuō)，“并展示給世人的機(jī)會(huì)。”

Nordic influence is on the menu, too, in a starter of warm country sourdough with beer butter and smoked beef fat butter, modeled after a popular bread course at Noma. After that, the menu divides into Snack, Smaller, Bigger, Sweeter. I would return in a heartbeat for baby potatoes, which are thickly dusted with dried shiitake crumbles. The mushroom crumbs bear a whiff of the forest floor and notes of coffee and bitter chocolate that deepen when mixed with the accompanying cultured butter.

斯堪的納維亞地區(qū)的影響也體現(xiàn)在了菜單上的第一道菜上。它是一份熱騰騰的鄉(xiāng)村酵母面包，搭配啤酒黃油和熏牛油黃油，效仿的是Noma餐廳一款備受歡迎的面包。在這道菜之后，菜單分成了點(diǎn)心、小菜、大菜和甜品幾部分。我可能會(huì)興奮地再來(lái)這里吃撒了厚厚一層干蘑菇碎的小土豆。蘑菇碎帶著一股森林里的泥土氣息，還有一種咖啡和純苦巧克力的感覺(jué)。和搭配的精品黃油一同入口時(shí)，這種感覺(jué)會(huì)有所加深。

The Taiwan salad is a stunner: 30 ingredients that change by the day (I identified nasturtium leaves, flower petals, tiny broccoli florets, pickled cherry tomatoes and roasted carrots), dressed not with vinegar or citrus but umami, in the form of salted black beans. There’s plenty of showmanship in crisp-tender blush prawns bathed in coral sauce made with prawn head fat and layered with jicama batons and wisps of fresh dill; frozen ricotta is dusted over the bowl, releasing a dry ice cloud. Each mouthful is a shock of brine and milk and grassiness, amplified by crunch and cold.

臺(tái)灣沙拉格外令人震撼：它包含30種原料，每天都會(huì)有所變化(我嘗出了旱金蓮葉、花瓣，西蘭花，腌制的櫻桃番茄和烤胡蘿卜)，它不是醋或柑橘的味道，而是鹽漬黑豆所帶來(lái)的鮮味。脆嫩的紅蝦浸泡在蝦頭脂肪制成的珊瑚色蝦醬里，顯得分外華麗，豆薯?xiàng)l和縷縷新鮮蒔蘿令口味更具層次感;冷凍乳清干酪末撒在碗里，散發(fā)出云霧般的白色冷氣。每一口都是鹵水、牛奶與清新味道的沖擊，爽脆冰冷的口感更添刺激。

MUME, No. 28 Siwei Road; 886-2-2700-0901. Average dinner for two is 2,900 dollars, plus 10 percent service charge. MUME地址：四維路28號(hào);電話(huà)：886-2-2700-0901。 兩人晚餐平均價(jià)格為2900臺(tái)幣加10%服務(wù)費(fèi)。

YEN 紫艷中餐廳

Before arriving at YEN (yet another all-caps venture), the Hong Kong-born Hoi Ming Wo cooked in Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia. In Osaka, he led the Xiang Tao restaurant to its first Michelin star. But he had never been to Taiwan, so before starting as executive chef he traveled the island to eat, and inspiration struck: “I realized that, hey, there are a lot of really great local ingredients,” he said, “and I knew that was where I wanted to focus at YEN.”

來(lái)紫艷中餐廳(YEN，又是一家字母全部大寫(xiě)的餐廳)之前，出生在香港的鄔海明(Hoi Ming Wo)在泰國(guó)、新加坡和馬來(lái)西亞當(dāng)過(guò)廚師。在大阪，他帶領(lǐng)香桃(Xiang Tao)獲評(píng)米其林一星餐廳。但他一直沒(méi)來(lái)過(guò)臺(tái)灣，因此，在開(kāi)始擔(dān)任紫艷中餐廳的行政總廚之前，他在島上四處游歷，品嘗美食。那時(shí)，他有了一個(gè)靈感：“我意識(shí)到，嘿，這里有很多真的很棒的本地食材，”他說(shuō)，“我知道這正是我希望紫艷中餐廳注重的方面。”

Atop the W Hotel, YEN is as stylish as one would expect: bold colors (deep violet and pink), inventive artwork (wall sculptures incorporating kitchen tools), a wall of windows overlooking Taipei’s urban sprawl. Much of the long menu is composed of dishes one might find in a restaurant of similar caliber in Hong Kong: succulent roast meats and fowl, steamed fish priced by the pound, double-boiled soups. But you’ll also unearth gems, examples of what Wo describes as Taiwanese-Cantonese fusion.

位于W飯店頂層的紫艷中餐廳時(shí)尚至極：顏色大膽(深紫羅蘭色和粉色)、藝術(shù)品極富創(chuàng)意(墻上以餐具為主題的雕塑)、多扇窗戶(hù)可以俯瞰臺(tái)北。長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的菜單上，很多都是人們也許會(huì)在水平類(lèi)似的香港餐廳看到的菜肴：多汁烤肉和家禽、按磅計(jì)價(jià)的蒸魚(yú)，以及老湯。但你也會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)珍寶，它們就是鄔海明所說(shuō)的臺(tái)灣菜和粵菜相結(jié)合的范例。

Delicate cones filled with crispy green apple sticks and pan-fried slices of mullet roe are all crunch and tartness with a bracing hit of piscine saltiness. Mi tai mu, an iconic street dish of stubby rice flour noodles made like spaetzle and usually eaten in soup, are here served in a Cantonese-style lobster broth whose sumptuousness is bolstered by rafts of sweet loofah gourd.

精致的蛋筒中放入鮮脆的綠蘋(píng)果條和用平底鍋煎的烏魚(yú)子薄片，咬上去嘎吱作響，酸味中帶有一絲魚(yú)的咸香，令人神清氣爽。米苔目是臺(tái)灣標(biāo)志性的街頭小吃，里面的米粉又短又粗，像德國(guó)的spaetzle。米苔目通常是帶湯的，而在紫艷中餐廳，米苔目用的是一種粵式龍蝦湯，大量甜絲瓜讓其更顯豐盛。

For a main dish Wo steams chunks of lobster from Penghu (islands in the Taiwan Strait) — very tender, unlike Boston lobster, he said — and sets them in a shallow bowl in the center of a creamy “ocean” of egg white; a tangle of bird’s nest adds crunch. There’s nothing Taiwanese about YEN’s custard buns, but order them anyway: Served warm, dusted with semi-bitter cacao and shaped like mushrooms, they ooze golden eggy custard.

為了一道主菜，鄔海明會(huì)蒸幾塊來(lái)自澎湖(位于臺(tái)灣海峽的多座島嶼)的龍蝦——他說(shuō)這種龍蝦肉質(zhì)非常嫩，不像波士頓龍蝦——并把它們放在一個(gè)淺碗里，為一片奶白色的蛋清“海洋”所包圍，燕窩則增加了這道佳肴的脆爽口感。紫艷中餐廳的奶黃包毫無(wú)臺(tái)灣特色可言，但還是點(diǎn)一份吧：熱乎乎的包子端上桌，形狀像蘑菇，上面撒著微苦的可可粉，金色的奶黃從里面滲了出來(lái)。

YEN, 31F, W Hotel, No. 10 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 5; 886-2-7703-8768; yentaipei.com/en. An average meal for two is 3,500 dollars.

紫艷中餐廳地址：忠孝東路5段10號(hào)W飯店31層;電話(huà)：886-2-7703-8768;網(wǎng)址：yentaipei.com/en。普通兩人餐3500臺(tái)幣。

Mr. Meat Hot Pot and Butchery 肉大人肉鋪火鍋

I’d never been a fan of hot pot until several years ago, when a friend in Taipei introduced me to fermented cabbage hot pot at a restaurant called Lao Zhou. Eighteen months ago Han Chen, a native of Taichung, on the country’s western coast, who managed Lau Zhou for his uncle, struck out on his own and opened Mr. Meat, where he melds a passion for fermentation and a reverence for Taiwan’s “grannies” (Mr. Chen’s term for small producers of traditional ingredients) with a pure love of meat.

我向來(lái)不喜歡火鍋，直到幾年前，臺(tái)北的一個(gè)朋友給我介紹了一家叫“老舅的家鄉(xiāng)味”的餐廳里的酸菜火鍋。18個(gè)月前，替親戚管理“老舅的家鄉(xiāng)味”的陳冠翰自立門(mén)戶(hù)，創(chuàng)辦了肉大人。在這里，在臺(tái)灣西海岸的臺(tái)中出生和長(zhǎng)大的陳冠翰把對(duì)酸菜的熱愛(ài)和對(duì)臺(tái)灣“阿嬤”(陳冠翰指的是小型傳統(tǒng)食材供應(yīng)商)的敬重，與對(duì)肉食的純粹喜愛(ài)結(jié)合在了一起。

“Fermented ingredients have sourness without acidity and combine well with meat,” he said. “The fat smooths the ferment while the ferment brings out the meat’s sweetness.” Diners choose from a selection of broths made with seasonal ferments (cabbage in fall, garlic in winter, kimchi in spring, tomato in summer). The individually sized hot pots come preassembled, ready to cook at personal burners.

“酸菜有酸味，但沒(méi)有酸性，能很好地和肉結(jié)合，”他說(shuō)。“脂肪會(huì)去除酵素，酵素則會(huì)讓肉釋放出甜味兒。”食客有一系列鍋底可選，它們都是用應(yīng)季的酸菜(秋天是白菜、冬天是洋蔥、春天是朝鮮泡菜、夏天是西紅柿)制作的。大小不同的火鍋可重新組合，個(gè)人可隨時(shí)在自己的爐子上開(kāi)煮。

Fermented garlic soup sounds stinkier than it tastes; on a cool December day it was salve for the soul, bracing, reviving, appetizing. Packed with vegetables (taro, bamboo, radish, white cabbage), bean curd three ways (skin, frozen, preserved), meatballs, dumplings and flavorings like red dates and wolfberries, it made a fine base for a selection of thinly sliced meats.

酸洋蔥鍋底吃上去沒(méi)有聽(tīng)上去那么臭。在天氣轉(zhuǎn)涼的12月吃，簡(jiǎn)直就是對(duì)心靈的慰藉，讓人神清氣爽、滿(mǎn)血復(fù)活、食欲大開(kāi)。滿(mǎn)滿(mǎn)當(dāng)當(dāng)?shù)氖卟?芋頭、竹筍、水蘿卜、包心菜)、豆腐三樣(豆皮、凍豆腐、腐乳)、肉丸、餃子以及紅棗、枸杞等調(diào)味品，為精心挑選的薄肉片打下了美味的基礎(chǔ)。

Taiwan produces little beef or lamb, so Mr. Chen imports some red meats from Europe, the United States and Australia. But there’s also gamy cherry duck (a Taiwanese breed), gui ding chicken (tastier than your average bird) and Taiwanese black pork. It would be unwise to pass on a side order of Granny’s Braised Carrot Minced Meat, an insanely luscious pork ragu made according to a recipe provided by Mr. Chen’s grandmother-in-law, served over rice.

臺(tái)灣幾乎不出產(chǎn)牛羊肉，因此陳冠翰的部分紅肉是從歐洲、美國(guó)和澳大利亞進(jìn)口的。但店里也有櫻桃鴨(臺(tái)灣的一個(gè)品種)、桂丁雞(比普通的雞好吃)和臺(tái)灣黑豬肉。錯(cuò)過(guò)須單點(diǎn)的配菜“家傳阿嬤的紅蘿卜肉燥”是很不明智的。這是一道非常美味的醬豬肉，是按照陳冠翰妻子的祖母提供的食譜制作的。上桌時(shí)，肉燥會(huì)被澆在米飯上。

Before opening his restaurant Mr. Chen traveled Taiwan in search of exceptional ingredients. In Meinong, a center of Hakka culture, he found a husband and wife making tofu skin with soy milk heated over a wood fire; in Tainan, a woman making fine fish dumplings filled with pork. Some are named on the menu, like Master Wu of Tainan, a classical painter-turned-fermentation specialist.

開(kāi)餐廳之前，陳冠翰在臺(tái)灣四處游歷，尋找與眾不同的食材。在客家文化的中心美濃，他看到一對(duì)夫婦用經(jīng)過(guò)柴火加熱的豆?jié){制作豆皮。在臺(tái)南，一名女子在魚(yú)餃中加入豬肉后，味道棒極了。其中一些人的名字出現(xiàn)在了肉大人的菜單上，比如臺(tái)南的“酸菜老爺”。此人是一名傳統(tǒng)的酸菜專(zhuān)家，轉(zhuǎn)行前是一名畫(huà)家。

“I see the restaurant as a platform. I love the ingredients and I want you to know who made them,” Mr. Chen said. “Make the grannies happy, make the grannies proud.”

“我把餐廳當(dāng)成一個(gè)平臺(tái)。我喜歡這些食材，我想讓你們知道它們是誰(shuí)做的，”陳冠翰說(shuō)。“讓阿嬤高興，讓阿嬤自豪。”

Mr. Meat Hot Pot and Butchery, rear entrance No. 85 Lane 31, Dunhua South Road Section 2; 886-2-2703-5522; www.mrmeat.co. Average meal for two is 1,800 dollars.

肉大人肉鋪火鍋地址：敦化南路2段81巷35號(hào)后門(mén);電話(huà)：886-2-2703-5522;網(wǎng)址：www.mrmeat.co。兩人餐平均價(jià)格為1800臺(tái)幣。