為什么中國(guó)女性如此熱愛(ài)自拍修圖？

Chinese women are radically altering their faces to look whiter and more 'Western' online CREDIT: QUARTZ

Chinese girls were taking selfies way before the West had even heard of them – and probably even before the word ‘selfie’ had been invented in English.

在西方國(guó)家的人們還沒(méi)聽(tīng)說(shuō)“自拍”這個(gè)詞的時(shí)候，中國(guó)女孩就已經(jīng)開(kāi)始玩自拍了，甚至在還不存在“自拍”(selfie)這個(gè)單詞的時(shí)候就已經(jīng)開(kāi)始了。

And so, while the world embraces the selfie revolution – young Chinese women are again one step ahead, editing their pictures in a way the rest of us can only imagine.

之后，當(dāng)世界開(kāi)始“自拍革命”的時(shí)候——中國(guó)年輕女性又領(lǐng)先一步，用我們只能靠想像的方式，開(kāi)始編輯她們的自拍照。

We're not talking about adding a few flattering filters on Instagram here. The augmentation of facial features – using phone apps such as Meitu Xiu Xiu – is becoming so widespread and powerful in China that it’s become fashionable to say online that they work better than plastic surgery.

這里所說(shuō)的圖片編輯不只是在Instagram上添加一些好看的濾鏡那么簡(jiǎn)單。調(diào)整面部特征——使用手機(jī)應(yīng)用程序，如美圖秀秀——在中國(guó)變得如此的普遍和有影響力，網(wǎng)上盛傳這比整形手術(shù)還管用。

These hugely successful, homegrown photo editing apps specifically target two distinct psychologies of Chinese women: the unabashed posting of selfies (often a whole series of close-up pictures with different expressions) and the desire to look whiter than they really are.

這些極其成功的國(guó)產(chǎn)照片處理應(yīng)用專門(mén)針對(duì)中國(guó)女性的兩大明顯的心理特征：一是可以隨心所欲地曬自拍(通常是一系列的特寫(xiě)照片，只有表情不同);二是希望自己看起來(lái)比實(shí)際更膚白貌美。

Such apps play to Chinese women’s fantasies of achieving a ‘Westernised’ aesthetic - whiter skin and bigger eyes.

這類應(yīng)用也使中國(guó)女性實(shí)現(xiàn)了她們所追求的“西化”的審美觀——皮膚白皙、大眼睛。

Photo enhancements are nothing new, of course and Photoshop has been readily available for a long time. But simple-to-use photo-editing apps, which create the same effect as Photoshop on your phone, are a relatively new invention.

當(dāng)然，美化照片并不是什么新技術(shù)，Photoshop這樣的圖片處理軟件我們已經(jīng)使用了很久。相對(duì)而言，操作簡(jiǎn)易、功能與Photoshop相似的手機(jī)應(yīng)用軟件卻是一個(gè)新發(fā)明。

In China at least, the phenomenon has become an integral part of the online culture. Most of my female friends edit their faces before posting pictures on social media – it’s a must-do, ingrained step.

至少在中國(guó)，這種現(xiàn)象已經(jīng)成為網(wǎng)絡(luò)文化的一個(gè)必不可少的組成部分。我的大多數(shù)女性朋友在社交媒體發(fā)布照片之前一定會(huì)先美化這些照片，這已經(jīng)成為發(fā)照片的“必經(jīng)之路”，成為一個(gè)根深蒂固的習(xí)慣。

This is more than a digital ‘touch up’ – the likes of which are growing more popular in the Western world, too. Such apps play to Chinese women’s fantasies of achieving a more refined––or more ‘Westernised’––aesthetic that specifically lies in having a more streamlined facial contour, whiter skin and bigger eyes.

這已經(jīng)不僅僅是數(shù)碼“潤(rùn)色”，這在西方國(guó)家也逐漸盛行起來(lái)了。此類應(yīng)用軟件幫助中國(guó)女性“實(shí)現(xiàn)”了她們對(duì)精致容貌的追求——或者說(shuō)是更“西化”的美貌——有更流線型的面部輪廓、白皙的皮膚和大眼睛。

Natural is the exact opposite of what many Chinese women want (posed by models) CREDIT: EPA

Meitu Xiu Xiu, the leading app of its kind in the Chinese market, is phenomenally successful, According to its official website, Meitu has over 500 million users and is installed on over 900 million mobile devices worldwide.

美圖秀秀，是中國(guó)美圖類應(yīng)用市場(chǎng)中領(lǐng)先的應(yīng)用軟件，此款應(yīng)用獲得了極大的成功。根據(jù)其官網(wǎng)數(shù)據(jù)，美圖秀秀的用戶超過(guò)5億，全球超過(guò)9億用戶安裝了這款應(yīng)用。

The ‘refine and whiten’ button is by far the most popular function, since having white skin in itself is a standard of beauty in China.

一鍵“磨皮美白”是目前最受歡迎的功能，因?yàn)槠つw白在中國(guó)是美的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)之一。

Famous Chinese women are driving the trend. The best-known actress in China, Fan Bingbing, has publicly declared Meitu her favourite app and often posts photos of her snow-white skin.

一些中國(guó)知名的女性也在推動(dòng)這個(gè)潮流。中國(guó)最有名的明星范冰冰，就曾公開(kāi)稱美圖秀秀是她最喜歡的應(yīng)用，也經(jīng)常在網(wǎng)上發(fā)她肌膚白皙的照片。

In recent weeks, a $1,000 'selfie camera' has also been flying off the shelves, as it make users look like they've had plastic surgery. The Casio's official name is Exilim TR, but it’s mostly known as ”zipai shenqi” in China, which means ”Godly tool for selfies.”

最近幾周，一款價(jià)值約1000美元的“自拍相機(jī)”也被搶購(gòu)，因?yàn)檫@款相機(jī)拍出來(lái)的照片能讓用戶看起來(lái)像是她們做過(guò)整形手術(shù)。這款卡西歐自拍相機(jī)的官方名稱是Exilim TR，它在中國(guó)被稱為“自拍神器”，意思是神奇的自拍工具。

Indeed, the hot plastic surgery trend in China and Korea in recent years has been ‘jawline thinning’ – where women try to reduce their ‘bigger faces’ to resemble those of Western women. This ‘shaving’ involves cutting into the jaw and trimming off some of the bone. The result is a more sculpted face and a more triangular chin that resembles the supposed “pixie” look of Western faces.

事實(shí)上，近年來(lái)在中國(guó)和韓國(guó)的整形手術(shù)中，“削尖下巴”十分熱門(mén)——女性們希望自己的“大臉”可以像西方女性那樣立體精致。這里所說(shuō)的“削”需要切削下頜，以及削骨。其結(jié)果就是一張更有型的尖下巴“瓜子臉”，與人們印象中的西式“小精靈”面容相似。

But if you can’t afford surgery, these new apps let you ‘suck in’ your face with the subtle slide of a finger.

但如果你負(fù)擔(dān)不起整形手術(shù)，那么這些新興的應(yīng)用軟件只需你動(dòng)動(dòng)手指就可以讓自己的臉部縮小，擁有精致的輪廓。

One charmer asked me why I used such “life like photos” rather than edited pictures.

有人問(wèn)我為什么更喜歡用“生活照”，而不是美化過(guò)的照片。

Chinese women are afraid to look natural online (posed by model) CREDIT: QUARTZ

“Brightening my skin and making my face thinner is normally all I do on Meitu”, says my attractive friend Leah Zhang. Although she does admit to having gone much further in modifying her features - and having toned it down after one boyfriend told her that her pictures looked nothing like her.

我的一位漂亮的朋友張莉(音)說(shuō)，“我一般用美圖秀秀‘美膚瘦臉’。”然而她承認(rèn)自己對(duì)照片改動(dòng)很大，自從她的一個(gè)男朋友告訴她，她的照片與她本人相去甚遠(yuǎn)之后，她對(duì)照片的美化就沒(méi)那么夸張了。

I’ve experienced the opposite problem. All this extreme digital photo editing is leading to unrealistic expectations as to what Chinese women actually look like in real life.

而我卻經(jīng)歷過(guò)相反的問(wèn)題。所有的這些美化照片導(dǎo)致大家對(duì)于中國(guó)女性在現(xiàn)實(shí)生活中的模樣有了不切實(shí)際的期望。

A guy I met on a dating app told me he was shocked when he first saw me as I was “much better looking” than my photos suggested. “You look really dark in your photos”, he said, “and your face looks round.”

我在交友應(yīng)用上遇到的一個(gè)人告訴我說(shuō)，當(dāng)他第一次見(jiàn)到我時(shí)，他感到很震驚，因?yàn)槲冶救吮任业恼掌每础?ldquo;照片上你看起來(lái)真黑，”他說(shuō)，“而且你的臉在照片上看起來(lái)是圓的。”

Another charmer asked me why I used such “life like photos” rather than edited pictures.

又有另一個(gè)人問(wèn)我為什么用這樣的“生活照”而不是美化過(guò)的照片。

“Nowadays, men are so used to seeing faces of girls on social media where the skin has been whitened, features softened and jaws thinned down, so that anything unfiltered looks strangely under par,” 27-year-old graphic designer Xiaolin told me.

27歲的平面設(shè)計(jì)師小林告訴我，“現(xiàn)在，男性都習(xí)慣于在社交媒體上看到已經(jīng)‘磨皮美白、臉部特征更柔和、尖下巴’的女生的照片。所以，任何未經(jīng)處理的照片反而讓人看起來(lái)覺(jué)得奇怪不舒服。”

My 24-year-old friend Zhao Siyuan tells me that plenty of her male friends have been deceived in online dating with a little help from Meitu. A few were apparently so appalled by the difference in their date's face that they “just directly turned around and walked away”.

我24歲的朋友趙思源(音)告訴我，她的很多男性朋友在網(wǎng)上交友時(shí)被欺騙了，就因?yàn)槊缊D秀秀的“一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)幫助”。有一部分在見(jiàn)面的那一刻，對(duì)約會(huì)對(duì)象的相貌是如此的震驚以至于他們“轉(zhuǎn)頭就走”了。

A couple of months ago I too gave into the pressure downloaded Meitu Xiuxiu, partly because I was curious. Now I’m addicted - because it's so easy to change the way you look, and because, no matter where you are from, a bit of “brightening” is never a bad thing.

幾個(gè)月前，我也下載了美圖秀秀，部分原因是因?yàn)槲液芎闷妗，F(xiàn)在，我竟然“上癮”了，因?yàn)樗娴目梢暂p易“改變”你的容貌。而且，無(wú)論你來(lái)自何方，“白一點(diǎn)”總不是什么壞事。

I can just tap to erase blemishes on my face – meaning my lazy morning routine doesn’t impact my online persona. My jawline, as much as I don’t want to admit it, is quickly streamlined with a quick ‘sucking’. It’s a lot of fun.

我可以點(diǎn)擊抹掉我臉上的瑕疵——這意味著即使我每天早晨再懶，也不會(huì)影響我在網(wǎng)上的形象。雖然我不想承認(rèn)，但我的下巴輕輕一點(diǎn)擊就迅速“變尖”了。這是一個(gè)很有趣的過(guò)程。

Photoshopping your face with an app is just that – fun - and isn’t harmful in most cases.

用一款應(yīng)用美化你的照片是如此地有趣——在大部分情況下，也是無(wú)害的。

But, in China, it’s increasingly redefining standards of beauty. Chinese women are moving away from their natural selves and I can't help but feel this 'fun' is rapidly turning into an even greater pressure to conform, and look a certain way.

但是，在中國(guó)，美的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)不斷被重新定義。中國(guó)女性正逐漸遠(yuǎn)離最本真的自我，這使我不禁覺(jué)得這種“有趣”正在迅速轉(zhuǎn)變成一種巨大的順應(yīng)潮流、以及以一定的方式去看待周圍的壓力。

The gap between reality and our online lives is widening as we sit on our phones playing plastic surgeon - and it can't be long before Western women join in.

我們的現(xiàn)實(shí)和網(wǎng)絡(luò)生活之間的差距正在不斷擴(kuò)大，因?yàn)樵谑謾C(jī)上，我們都是一位整形外科醫(yī)生——相信不用過(guò)多久，西方女性也將加入這個(gè)行列。