美就是生產(chǎn)力 可穿戴設(shè)備披上時(shí)尚外衣

If wearable tech is to live up to its potential, it needsto start looking better. That’s why a growing numberof savvy tech companies are collaborating withforward-looking fashion houses, and startups arefocusing on design first.

如果可穿戴技術(shù)要充分發(fā)揮它的潛力，它就得開(kāi)始在外表上下工夫。這就是為何越來(lái)越多精明的科技公司開(kāi)始與遠(yuǎn)見(jiàn)十足的時(shí)尚品牌合作，而初創(chuàng)科技公司也開(kāi)始將設(shè)計(jì)放在首位。

“Wearables are arguably the most personal technology we’ve seen,” says AyseIldeniz, vicepresident and general manager of Intel’s New Devices Group, which partnered with hip retailerOpening Ceremony on smart bracelets, and with accessories giant Fossil for an upcomingproject. “As such, we believe the fashion and design industry should be in the driver’s seat.”

英特爾新設(shè)備集團(tuán)的副總裁兼總經(jīng)理愛(ài)莎o艾德尼茲表示：“可穿戴技術(shù)可能是我們見(jiàn)過(guò)的最個(gè)性化的技術(shù)。”該集團(tuán)已經(jīng)與時(shí)尚零售商O(píng)pening Ceremony共同開(kāi)發(fā)了智能手鐲，還將在新項(xiàng)目上與配飾產(chǎn)品巨頭Fossil展開(kāi)合作。“正因如此，我們認(rèn)為時(shí)尚和設(shè)計(jì)行業(yè)也應(yīng)當(dāng)在這個(gè)領(lǐng)域占據(jù)主導(dǎo)地位。”

“Silicon Valley has this misconception that if the technical feature is well-built enough,consumers will lap it up, no matter what it looks like. This is not the case,” adds Kate Unsworth,founder and CEO of Kovert Designs, a London-based startup that’s launching sleek, smartjewelry in time for the holidays. “Ever seen a smartwatch on the Champs-Elysées?”

位于倫敦的初創(chuàng)公司Kovert Designs趕在這個(gè)圣誕節(jié)來(lái)臨前，推出了時(shí)髦的智能首飾。公司創(chuàng)始人兼首席執(zhí)行官凱特o昂斯沃斯表示：“硅谷的公司有個(gè)誤解，認(rèn)為只要產(chǎn)品的技術(shù)性能足夠好，無(wú)論它外觀什么樣，消費(fèi)者都會(huì)買(mǎi)賬的。但你在香榭麗舍大街見(jiàn)過(guò)智能手表嗎?”

Unsworth is alluding to the aesthetic shortcomings of early wearable gadgets: Bulky, squaredoff, masculine and plastic-y, they were not likely to find valuable wrist real estate (or face realestate, in the case of Google Glass) among image-conscious consumers.

昂斯沃斯暗指早期的可穿戴設(shè)備缺乏美感：笨重、方正、粗獷、塑料質(zhì)感。那些注重形象的消費(fèi)者，不太可能讓它們?cè)谧约旱氖滞笊险紦?jù)一席之地。

Indeed, when it comes to techcessories, beauty is as important as brains. “We did some studieson wearables, and 51 percent of consumers who are interested in buying a smartwatch saidthey won’t even consider it unless it fits in with their personal style,” notes Ben Arnold,executive director and industry analyst for consumer technology at The NPD Group. Themarket research firm reports that sales of fitness trackers and smartwatches hit $570 million inthe year to August and projects the market to more than double next year, due in part to theentry of Apple Watch.

確實(shí)，對(duì)科技配飾來(lái)說(shuō)，外表和內(nèi)在一樣重要。NPD 集團(tuán)執(zhí)行董事，消費(fèi)技術(shù)行業(yè)分析師本o阿諾德指出：“我們對(duì)可穿戴設(shè)備做了一些研究，在那些有興趣購(gòu)買(mǎi)智能手表的顧客中，有51%表示，如果產(chǎn)品與他們的個(gè)人風(fēng)格不搭，他們絕不會(huì)考慮購(gòu)買(mǎi)。”這家市場(chǎng)研究公司的報(bào)告顯示，截至今年8月，健康追蹤器和智能手表的銷售額已經(jīng)達(dá)到5.7億美元，考慮到蘋(píng)果手表的加入，該公司預(yù)計(jì)這個(gè)市場(chǎng)明年的銷售額還將提高一倍以上。

To glamorize geek wear, designers are using upscale materials and refining the size, shape andfeel of their gadgets. Take Opening Ceremony and Intel’s MICA (My Intelligent CommunicationAccessory), an elegant bracelet that displays communications and alerts on its 1.6-inchcurved sapphire-glass touchscreen. Opening Ceremony founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon(also creative directors at French luxury house Kenzo) unveiled two versions of the bangleadorned with semiprecious gems and water snakeskin at their September fashionpresentation (which took the form of a one-act play). MICA will reportedly be priced at lessthan $1,000 for its holiday launch at Opening Ceremony stores and Barneys New York.

為了美化這類極客裝備，設(shè)計(jì)師們使用了高級(jí)材料，并從大小、外型和質(zhì)感上對(duì)配件進(jìn)行了改良。就以O(shè)pening Ceremony和英特爾合作打造的MICA手鐲為例。這款精致的手鐲在1.6英寸的藍(lán)寶石曲面觸摸屏上提供了通訊和提醒功能。在今年9月的紐約時(shí)裝周上，Opening Ceremony的創(chuàng)始人卡羅爾o利姆和漢貝托o利昂以獨(dú)幕劇的形式，公布了該款飾有半寶石和水蛇皮的手鐲的兩種樣式。據(jù)報(bào)道，Opening Ceremony門(mén)店和巴尼斯紐約精品店的MICA在假日季的售價(jià)會(huì)低于1,000美元。

In another collaboration, downtown designer Rebecca Minkoff teamed with Case-Mate tocreate smart jewelry, charging units and phone cases, available this holiday season atNordstrom and through her own website and stores. Her $120 gold chain-link bracelet withpyramid studs alerts wearers to calls and texts and would be at home in the pages of Vogue.

在另一項(xiàng)合作中，位于紐約市中心的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)公司瑞貝卡o明可弗與Case-Mate攜手開(kāi)發(fā)了智能首飾、充電裝置和手機(jī)套。在這個(gè)節(jié)日季，這些產(chǎn)品在諾德斯特龍百貨店和該公司官網(wǎng)和門(mén)店有售。其中一款售價(jià)120美元的金鏈環(huán)手鐲帶有金字塔狀的裝飾，如有電話和短信進(jìn)入，手鐲就會(huì)通知佩戴者。而且它設(shè)計(jì)精美，即使放在《時(shí)尚》雜志的版面上也不會(huì)讓人感到奇怪。

Tory Burch has introduced bracelets for the Fitbit Flex activity and sleep tracker in her signatureperky prints ($38), along with a decorative brass Fitbit-holder bracelet and necklace withopen fretwork ($175 to $195).

時(shí)尚品牌托里o伯奇也為Fitbit Flex的運(yùn)動(dòng)和睡眠追蹤器設(shè)計(jì)了手鐲，上面印有伯奇的趣味簽名。該公司還為Fitbit用戶設(shè)計(jì)了一套帶有回紋黃銅裝飾的手鐲和項(xiàng)鏈。

Both Kovert and New York-based startup Ringly offer bold jewelry with notification systems.When she’s out, Unsworth sets her ring to vibrate. “This allows me to ignore my phonethroughout dinner, so I can be present and engage in real face-to-face conversation with theperson I’m with,” she explains.

Kovert和位于紐約的初創(chuàng)公司Ringly都推出了配置通知系統(tǒng)的夸張首飾。Kovert創(chuàng)始人昂斯沃斯出門(mén)時(shí)，會(huì)把戒指設(shè)置為震動(dòng)。她解釋說(shuō)：“這讓我可以在用餐時(shí)忽略手機(jī)，專心與同伴進(jìn)行真正面對(duì)面的交談。”

Kovert’s rings, bracelets and necklaces, plated in silver, gold and rose gold, hold inch-longwaterproof smart stones that swap in and out of the pieces. The collection, priced at 290 to360 pounds (roughly $460 to $575) is available on KovertDesigns.com and Net-A-Porter.

Kovert的戒指、手鐲和項(xiàng)鏈有鍍銀、鍍金和玫瑰金的不同版本，首飾中含有1英寸大小的防水智能陶瓷用于通訊。這個(gè)部分還能夠自由更換。該系列產(chǎn)品定價(jià)在290至360英鎊之間，可以在KovertDesigns.com和奢侈品購(gòu)物網(wǎng)站Net-A-Porter買(mǎi)到。

Ringly was started by eBay veteran Christina Mercando after her inability to find her cell phonebecame a standing joke. The 18-karat-gold-plated cocktail rings ($195 to $260) featureprecious or semiprecious stones that hide the tech pack. “We sold the first 1,000 rings inunder 24 hours [in June], making us the most successful crowdfunded women’s wearabledevice to date,” says Mercando, CEO.

Ringly的創(chuàng)始人是eBay資深員工克里斯蒂娜o梅爾肯多。在她找不到手機(jī)的事情被傳為笑柄后，她創(chuàng)立了這家公司。Ringly的18克拉鍍金雞尾酒戒指鑲有貴重寶石和半寶石，內(nèi)含通信技術(shù)包。擔(dān)任Ringly首席執(zhí)行官的梅爾肯多表示：“我們第一批1,000枚戒指在24小時(shí)內(nèi)就已售罄，讓我們成為迄今為止通過(guò)眾籌建立的最成功的女性可穿戴設(shè)備公司。”

As for designer smart apparel, it’s very much in its infancy. Ralph Lauren has gotten a headstart with its Polo Tech bio-sensing shirt, which had a trial run at this year’s U.S. Open tennischampionships and hits stores this spring. The compression top, which records data such asheart rate and calories burned and sends it to an iPhone app via Bluetooth, was developed withproprietary technology from Canada-based OMsignal.

至于由知名設(shè)計(jì)師設(shè)計(jì)的智能服裝，目前在很大程度上仍處于起步階段。拉夫o勞倫以生物傳感襯衫Polo Tech率先邁入該領(lǐng)域，該襯衫于今年春天在美國(guó)網(wǎng)球公開(kāi)賽上進(jìn)行了試驗(yàn)。襯衫中裝有壓縮的陀螺儀，能夠記錄心率和燃燒的卡路里，并通過(guò)藍(lán)牙傳輸?shù)绞謾C(jī)應(yīng)用上，該技術(shù)是由加拿大廠商O(píng)Msignal利用專利技術(shù)開(kāi)發(fā)的。

There’s no word yet on line extensions, but it’s safe to assume they’ll be attractive. After all,Ralph knows that looks matter.

這類產(chǎn)品將發(fā)展到什么程度，目前還不好斷言，但可以肯定的是，它們將極富吸引力。畢竟，拉夫o勞倫懂得，美就是生產(chǎn)力。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))