In those days, all the handsome men in France were away at the wars exchanging sabre-cuts with the handsome men of the Coalition. Pons was said to be, not ugly, but "peculiar-looking," after the grand rule laid down by Moliere in Eliante's famous couplets; but if he sometimes heard himself described as a "charming man" (after he had done some fair lady a service), his good fortune went no further than words.
It was between the years 1810 and 1816 that Pons contracted the unlucky habit of dining out; he grew accustomed to see his hosts taking pains over the dinner, procuring the first and best of everything, bringing out their choicest vintages, seeing carefully to the dessert, the coffee, the liqueurs, giving him of their best, in short; the best, moreover, of those times of the Empire when Paris was glutted with kings and queens and princes, and many a private house emulated royal splendours. People used to play at Royalty then as they play nowadays at parliament, creating a whole host of societies with presidents, vice-presidents, secretaries and what not—agricultural societies, industrial societies, societies for the promotion of sericulture, viticulture, the growth of flax, and so forth. Some have even gone so far as to look about them for social evils in order to start a society to cure them.
But to return to Pons. A stomach thus educated is sure to react upon the owner's moral fibre; the demoralization of the man varies directly with his progress in culinary sapience. Voluptuousness, lurking in every secret recess of the heart, lays down the law therein. Honor and resolution are battered in breach. The tyranny of the palate has never been described; as a necessity of life it escapes the criticism of literature; yet no one imagines how many have been ruined by the table. The luxury of the table is indeed, in this sense, the courtesan's one competitor in Paris, besides representing in a manner the credit side in another account, where she figures as the expenditure. With Pons' decline and fall as an artist came his simultaneous transformation from invited guest to parasite and hanger-on; he could not bring himself to quit dinners so excellently served for the Spartan broth of a two-franc ordinary. Alas! alas! a shudder ran through him at the mere thought of the great sacrifices which independence required him to make. He felt that he was capable of sinking to even lower depths for the sake of good living, if there were no other way of enjoying the first and best of everything, of guzzling (vulgar but expressive word) nice little dishes carefully prepared. Pons lived like a bird, pilfering his meal, flying away when he had taken his fill, singing a few notes by way of return; he took a certain pleasure in the thought that he lived at the expense of society, which asked of him—what but the trifling toll of grimaces? Like all confirmed bachelors, who hold their lodgings in horror, and live as much as possible in other people's houses, Pons was accustomed to the formulas and facial contortions which do duty for feeling in the world; he used compliments as small change; and as far as others were concerned, he was satisfied with the labels they bore, and never plunged a too-curious hand into the sack.
This not intolerable phase lasted for another ten years. Such years! Pons' life was closing with a rainy autumn. All through those years he contrived to dine without expense by making himself necessary in the houses which he frequented. He took the first step in the downward path by undertaking a host of small commissions; many and many a time Pons ran on errands instead of the porter or the servant; many a purchase he made for his entertainers. He became a kind of harmless, well-meaning spy, sent by one family into another; but he gained no credit with those for whom he trudged about, and so often sacrificed self-respect.
Pons is a bachelor, said they; "he is at a loss to know what to do with his time; he is only too glad to trot about for us.—What else would he do?"
Very soon the cold which old age spreads about itself began to set in; the communicable cold which sensibly lowers the social temperature, especially if the old man is ugly and poor. Old and ugly and poor—is not this to be thrice old? Pons' winter had begun, the winter which brings the reddened nose, and frost-nipped cheeks, and the numbed fingers, numb in how many ways!
From 1836 to 1843, invitations very seldom came for Pons. So far from seeking the society of the parasite, every family accepted him much as they accepted the taxes; they valued nothing that Pons could do for them; real services from Pons counted for nought. The family circles in which the worthy artist revolved had no respect for art or letters; they went down on their knees to practical results; they valued nothing but the fortune or social position acquired since the year 1830. The bourgeoisie is afraid of intellect and genius, but Pons' spirit and manner were not haughty enough to overawe his relations, and naturally he had come at last to be accounted less than nothing with them, though he was not altogether despised. He had suffered acutely among them, but, like all timid creatures, he kept silence as to his pain; and so by degrees schooled himself to hide his feelings, and learned to take sanctuary in his inmost self. Many superficial persons interpret this conduct by the short word "selfishness;" and, indeed, the resemblance between the egoist and the solitary human creature is strong enough to seem to justify the harsher verdict; and this is especially true in Paris, where nobody observes others closely, where all things pass swift as waves, and last as little as a Ministry.
So Cousin Pons was accused of selfishness (behind his back); and if the world accuses any one, it usually finds him guilty and condemns him into the bargain. Pons bowed to the decision. Do any of us know how such a timid creature is cast down by an unjust judgment? Who will ever paint all that the timid suffer? This state of things, now growing daily worse, explains the sad expression on the poor old musician's face; he lived by capitulations of which he was ashamed. Every time we sin against self-respect at the bidding of the ruling passion, we rivet its hold upon us; the more that passion requires of us, the stronger it grows, every sacrifice increasing, as it were, the value of a satisfaction for which so much has been given up, till the negative sum-total of renouncements looms very large in a man's imagination. Pons, for instance, after enduring the insolently patronizing looks of some bourgeois, incased in buckram of stupidity, sipped his glass of port or finished his quail with breadcrumbs, and relished something of the savor of revenge, besides. "It is not too dear at the price!" he said to himself.
After all, in the eyes of the moralist, there were extenuating circumstances in Pons' case. Man only lives, in fact, by some personal satisfaction. The passionless, perfectly righteous man is not human; he is a monster, an angel wanting wings. The angel of Christian mythology has nothing but a head. On earth, the righteous person is the sufficiently tiresome Grandison, for whom the very Venus of the Crosswords is sexless. Setting aside one or two commonplace adventures in Italy, in which probably the climate accounted for his success, no woman had ever smiled upon Pons. Plenty of men are doomed to this fate. Pons was an abnormal birth; the child of parents well stricken in years, he bore the stigma of his untimely genesis; his cadaverous complexion might have been contracted in the flask of spirit-of-wine in which science preserves some extraordinary foetus. Artist though he was, with his tender, dreamy, sensitive soul, he was forced to accept the character which belonged to his face; it was hopeless to think of love, and he remained a bachelor, not so much of choice as of necessity. Then Gluttony, the sin of the continent monk, beckoned to Pons; he rushed upon temptation, as he had thrown his whole soul into the adoration of art and the cult of music. Good cheer and bric-a-brac gave him the small change for the love which could spend itself in no other way. As for music, it was his profession, and where will you find the man who is in love with his means of earning a livelihood? For it is with a profession as with marriage: in the long length you are sensible of nothing but the drawbacks.
Brillat-Savarin has deliberately set himself to justify the gastronome, but perhaps even he has not dwelt sufficiently on the reality of the pleasures of the table. The demands of digestion upon the human economy produce an internal wrestling-bout of human forces which rivals the highest degree of amorous pleasure. The gastronome is conscious of an expenditure of vital power, an expenditure so vast that the brain is atrophied (as it were), that a second brain, located in the diaphragm, may come into play, and the suspension of all the faculties is in itself a kind of intoxication. A boa constrictor gorged with an ox is so stupid with excess that the creature is easily killed. What man, on the wrong side of forty, is rash enough to work after dinner? And remark in the same connection, that all great men have been moderate eaters. The exhilarating effect of the wing of a chicken upon invalids recovering from serious illness, and long confined to a stinted and carefully chosen diet, has been frequently remarked. The sober Pons, whose whole enjoyment was concentrated in the exercise of his digestive organs, was in the position of chronic convalescence; he looked to his dinner to give him the utmost degree of pleasurable sensation, and hitherto he had procured such sensations daily. Who dares to bid farewell to old habit? Many a man on the brink of suicide has been plucked back on the threshold of death by the thought of the cafe where he plays his nightly game of dominoes.
那時法蘭西最健美的男兒,正在跟聯(lián)盟國最健美的男兒一刀一槍地廝殺[1];因此,按照埃里安德的理論,邦斯的丑陋被稱為別具一格[2]。他替什么美麗的太太辦了一點事,人家會叫他一聲“可愛的人”,但他的安慰也不過是這句空話而已。
在這一段約莫有六年(一八一〇至一八一六)的時間內(nèi),邦斯攪上了好吃好喝的壞習慣,眼看請他吃飯的主人們那么豪爽,端出時鮮的菜,開出頂好的酒;點心,咖啡,飯后酒,無一不講究。帝政時代就有這種好客的風氣;正當多少的國王王后云集巴黎的時候,大家都模仿他們光華顯赫的氣派。當時的人喜歡學帝王的樣,正如現(xiàn)在的人喜歡學國會的樣,成立好多有會長、副會長、秘書等等的團體,例如苧麻研究會、葡萄改良會、蠶種研究會、農(nóng)業(yè)會、工業(yè)會,形形色色,不一而足;有人還在尋訪社會的爛瘡,把良醫(yī)國手組成團體呢!
再說邦斯吧。受過這種訓練的胃,必然影響到一個人的氣節(jié);對烹調(diào)的了解越深刻,志氣也就越消沉。肉欲盤踞著你整個的心,在那里發(fā)號施令,意志和榮譽都給打得粉碎;它要你不惜犧牲使它滿足??诟怪膶M,從來沒有被描寫過,因為每個人都得生存,所以連文學批評都把它放過了。但為了吃喝而斷送掉的人,你真想象不到有多少。在巴黎,以傾家蕩產(chǎn)而論,飲食等于在跟娼妓競爭;并且在另一方面看,一個人的吃是收入,嫖是支出。趕到邦斯因藝術家身份的低落,從無席不與的上賓降而為吃白食的清客的時候,他已經(jīng)沒法離開精美的筵席,跑進四十銅子一餐的飯店去嘗斯巴達式[3]的牛奶蛋花羹。可憐他一想到要獨立就得作那么大的犧牲,他就發(fā)抖,他覺得什么下賤的事都能做,只要能繼續(xù)好吃好喝,按時按節(jié)嘗到當今的珍饈美果,吃著精致的名菜大快朵頤!他仿佛覓食的鳥,含了滿嘴的食物高飛遠走,只要嘁嘁喳喳唱上一支歌就算道謝。并且那么好的酒飯都吃在人家頭上,吃完了扯個鬼臉就跑,邦斯也覺得相當?shù)靡?。跟所有的單身漢一樣,他怕待在家里,喜歡老混在別人府上;凡是應酬場中的門面話,沒有真情的假殷勤,他都習慣了,他也學會了把客套隨口敷衍;至于看人,他只看個表面,從來不想去摸清底細。
這個勉強過得去的階段又拖了十年,可那是怎樣的十年呵!簡直是風風雨雨的秋天。邦斯盡量巴結那些走熟了的家庭,以便保住飯桌上的地位。終于他走上了末路,替人當差,跑腿,幾次三番地代替用人和門房的職司。多少買賣都由這一個家庭派他到另一家庭中去探聽消息,做個并無惡意的間諜;可是他跑了那么多回腿,當了那么些有失身份的差使,人家并不感激他。
“邦斯是個單身漢,”人家說,“他無聊得很,能夠替我們跑跑才高興呢……要不然他怎么辦?”
不久他開始散布出老年人的那點兒涼意,像北風一般把人家的感情都吹涼了,尤其他是個又窮又丑的老人,那不是老上加老嗎?這是人生到了冬季,鼻子通紅,腮幫灰白,手腳麻木的冬季!
一八三六年至一八四三年之間,邦斯難得有人請吃飯了。每個家庭都不想再找他,他要上門,就耐著性子耽待他,像忍受捐稅一樣。大家覺得沒有欠他一點兒情,甚至也不把他真正出過力的事放在心上。老人在那里混了一世的幾個家庭,都不是尊重藝術的,他們只崇拜成功,只重視一八三〇年以后得來的果實:財富或地位。既然邦斯在思想上舉動上都不夠氣魄,沒有那種教布爾喬亞敬畏的聰明或才氣,結果他當然變得一文不值,只是還不至于完全被人唾棄罷了。但他跟一切懦弱的人一樣,受了社會的白眼不敢說出來。慢慢地他學會了把情感壓在胸中,把自己的心當作一個避難所。好多淺薄的人,管這個現(xiàn)象叫作自私自利。孤獨的人與自私的人的確很相像,使一般說長道短之輩毀謗好人的話,顯得鑿鑿有據(jù),尤其在巴黎,沒有人肯用心觀察,一切都快得像潮水,曇花一現(xiàn)像內(nèi)閣!
所以,人家在背后責備邦斯自私,而邦斯也就給這個罪名壓倒了,因為你一朝加了人家罪名,結果終會把它坐實的。誣蔑給一般懦弱的人多大的打擊,可有人想到過?誰又會描寫他們的痛苦?這個一天天惡化的局面,說明了可憐的音樂家臉上的悲苦;他的生活是以可恥的犧牲換來的。可是為了嗜好而做的丟人的事,反而加強你對嗜好的聯(lián)系;越需要你卑躬屈膝的嗜好,你越覺得寶貴;你會把所有的犧牲看作消極的儲蓄,仿佛有無窮的財富在內(nèi)。譬如說,給有錢的渾蛋極不客氣地瞪上一眼之后,邦斯津津有味地呷著波特酒,嚼著焗鵪鶉,像出了一口怨氣似的,心里想:“總算還劃得來!”
在倫理學家心目中,他這種生活是情有可原的。人必須在某方面有點滿足才能活。一個毫無嗜好,完全合乎中庸之道的人,簡直是妖魔,是沒有翅膀的半吊子天使?;脚f教的神話里,天使沒有別的,只有頭腦。但在我們的濁世上,所謂完人便是那迂腐的格蘭狄遜[4],連街頭的神女對他也不成其為女性的。而邦斯,除了漫游意大利的時期,大概靠氣候幫忙而有過一兩次平凡的艷遇以外,從來沒看見女人對他笑過。好多人都遭到這一類的厄運。邦斯是天生的丑八怪,當初他父母是晚年得子,誕生既過了時令,他自有那些過了時令的瘢痕,例如死尸一般的皮色,很像在科學家保存怪胎的酒精瓶里培養(yǎng)出來的。這位藝術家,生成一顆溫柔的心,有幻想,有感覺,卻為了一副尊容不得不過那種生活,絕無希望得到女人的愛??梢娝莫毶聿⒎怯捎谧约合矚g,而是迫不得已。趕到饕餮來勾引他,他就奮不顧身地撲上去,像當年奮不顧身地崇拜藝術品和音樂一樣;好吃的罪過,不是連有道行的僧侶都難免嗎[5]?為他,珍饈美食與古董代替了女人;因為音樂是他的本行,而世界上哪有人喜歡他掙飯吃的本行的?職業(yè)有如婚姻,久而久之,大家只覺得它有弊無利。
布里亞·薩瓦蘭在《食欲心理學》一書中有心替老饕張目,但對于人在飲食方面真正的快樂,似乎還說得不夠。消化食物,需要不少精力,那是一場內(nèi)部的戰(zhàn)斗,對那些供養(yǎng)口腹的人,其快感竟不下于愛情。一個人只覺得生命力在那兒盡量發(fā)揮,頭腦不再活動而讓位給橫隔膜那邊的第二頭腦,同時所有的機能都麻痹,使你入于完全陶醉的境界。便是巨蟒吧,它吞了一頭公牛,就會癱倒在那里任人宰割。一過四十歲,誰還敢吃飽了飯馬上工作?……因此,所有的大人物對飲食都是有節(jié)制的。大病初愈的人,精美的食物給限制得很嚴,他們往往覺得吃到一只雞翅膀就能迷迷糊糊地愣個大半天。安分老實的邦斯,一切樂趣都集中在胃的活動上,所以他老像病后的人,希望凡是珍饈美食所能給他的快感都能享受到,而至此為止他的確每天享受到。可是世界上就沒有一個人有斷癮的勇氣。好多自殺的人臨死都改變了主意,因為丟不下每天晚上去玩“接龍”的咖啡館。
注解:
[1] 那時指一八一〇至一八一六年間,正是拿破侖戰(zhàn)爭達于高潮的時期。
[2] 埃里安德為莫里哀名劇《厭世者》中的人物。該劇第二幕第四場,有埃里安德的長篇臺詞,大意謂愛情與人之美丑無關。即情人眼里出西施之意。
[3] 古代斯巴達的國民以生活嚴肅、飲食清苦聞于世。
[4] 英國理查遜小說《格蘭狄遜》中的主人翁查爾斯·格蘭狄遜爵士,為一典型的正人君子。
[5] 基督舊教修院中的僧侶及一般傳教士,中世紀起即以講究飲食聞于世。
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