演講MP3+雙語(yǔ)文稿:時(shí)尚應(yīng)該贊美所有體型——勇敢且毫無(wú)歉疚

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聽(tīng)力課堂TED音頻欄目主要包括TED演講的音頻MP3及中英雙語(yǔ)文稿，供各位英語(yǔ)愛(ài)好者學(xué)習(xí)使用。本文主要內(nèi)容為演講MP3+雙語(yǔ)文稿:時(shí)尚應(yīng)該贊美所有體型——勇敢且毫無(wú)歉疚，希望你會(huì)喜歡！

【演講者及介紹】Becca McCharen-Tran

貝卡·麥克倫特蘭正在創(chuàng)造一個(gè)世界。外形、尺寸、性別表達(dá)、年齡、能力水平、種族和種族在t臺(tái)上和其他地方都是被賦予力量的。

【演講主題】時(shí)尚應(yīng)該贊美所有體型——勇敢且毫無(wú)歉疚

【中英文字幕】

翻譯者Ivana Korom 校對(duì)者Krystian Aparta

00:12

As fashion designers, our decisions havethe power to change our culture. We choose who is cast in our runway shows andcampaigns, and ultimately, who is celebrated and considered beautiful, and whois not. Having this platform is a responsibility. One that can be utilized toexclude people or to empower others.

作為一名時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師，我們所做的決定擁有改變文化的力量。我們決定誰(shuí)來(lái)走臺(tái)步，誰(shuí)來(lái)拍廣告，最終決定誰(shuí)會(huì)被贊美，誰(shuí)才是美麗的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，而誰(shuí)又與這些標(biāo)準(zhǔn)擦肩而過(guò)。擁有這個(gè)平臺(tái)其實(shí)是一種責(zé)任。這個(gè)平臺(tái)可以被用來(lái)排擠一些人或者賦能另一些人。

00:38

Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion. Ipored over all different types of fashion magazines at my local Barnes andNoble. To be fashionable was to be tall, skinny, with long, shiny hair. That'swhat I saw as the ideal, and it was reinforced everywhere I looked. And to behonest, it still is. I wanted to be like the models, so I stopped eating. Itwas a dark time in my life; my eating disorder consumed me. All I could thinkabout was counting every single calorie, and waking up early before schoolevery day so I could run a few miles. It took me years to finally release thegrip that the eating disorder had over my life. But when it did, it freed up somuch brain space to think about what I was truly passionate about.

成長(zhǎng)過(guò)程中我曾一度沉迷時(shí)尚。我在附近的連鎖書(shū)店里，翻遍了各種各樣的時(shí)尚雜志。要想變得時(shí)尚，就意味著要身型高挑，苗條，擁有亮麗的長(zhǎng)發(fā)。這是當(dāng)時(shí)我心目中的理想類(lèi)型，目之所及的一切也加強(qiáng)了我這種想法。實(shí)話(huà)說(shuō)，現(xiàn)在也是。我希望看起來(lái)更像模特，因此我開(kāi)始絕食。那是我人生中最黑暗的時(shí)刻；進(jìn)食障礙吞噬著我。我腦海里只有一件事，就是計(jì)算我所吃下的每一個(gè)卡路里，每天上學(xué)前更早起來(lái)，這樣就可以跑上幾公里。我花了好些年才終于放過(guò)自己，不再讓進(jìn)食障礙控制我的生活。當(dāng)我真正釋放的時(shí)候，我的大腦也清凈了許多，能好好想想真正讓我熱情澎湃的是什么。

01:27

For so long, the fashion industry hasworked hard to set an ideal of beauty that celebrates thin, young, white,cisgender, able-bodied models as the ideal. It's impossible not to be bombardedwith images of models that have been photoshopped to where there's not a singlepore, fat roll or stretch mark in sight. You don't need to look hard to findexamples. This definition of beauty is damaging, dangerous and destructive, andwe need to explode it immediately.

長(zhǎng)久以來(lái)，時(shí)尚界極力去設(shè)立一個(gè)有關(guān)美的理想，那個(gè)歌頌纖細(xì)，年輕，白皙，順性別，健美的模特的理想。幾乎不可能避開(kāi)經(jīng)過(guò)精修的模特圖片的狂轟亂炸，在這些圖片中根本看不見(jiàn)任何肥肉或者皺紋。這樣的例子隨處可見(jiàn)。如此對(duì)美的定義是有害的，危險(xiǎn)且具備破壞力，我們必須立刻消滅這個(gè)定義。

01:58

(Applause)

（掌聲）

02:02

I'm glad you agree.

我很高興看到大家站在同一戰(zhàn)線(xiàn)。

02:03

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

02:05

One of the worst things I've realized overthe years is that my experience with disordered eating is not an anomaly. Infact, it's par for the course. I think there's a study that says 91 percent ofwomen, and likely those of all gender identities, are unhappy with the way theylook. It's unforgivable that we live in a society where it's normal or expectedfor teenagers to grow up hating themselves. We've been fighting for fatacceptance and women's body autonomy since the '60s. And there has beenheadway. We have plus-size models like Ashley Graham and musicians withbody-positive messages, like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream. Thank God.

這些年我體會(huì)到的最糟糕的事情之一，就是我那段進(jìn)食障礙經(jīng)歷并不被認(rèn)為是反常的。事實(shí)上，沒(méi)什么好意外的。我記得某項(xiàng)研究表明，91%的女性，以及很有可能那些全性別身份的人，對(duì)自己的外在感到不開(kāi)心。不能原諒的是，我們活在一個(gè)認(rèn)為青少年懷著討厭自己情緒長(zhǎng)大是正常不過(guò)，或者正中下懷的社會(huì)。從 60 年代起，我們一直為接受肥胖和女性身體自主權(quán)而奮斗。并取得了一定的進(jìn)步。我們現(xiàn)在有像阿什莉·格林漢姆這樣的大碼模特以及傳遞著身體自愛(ài)信息的音樂(lè)人，比如說(shuō) Lizzo，闖進(jìn)了主流。感謝上帝。

02:45

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

02:47

There's brands like Area that have releasedcampaigns without any Photoshop retouching. But we're still inundated withunrealistic expectations. I love this quote by Lizzo, who said, "Bodypositivity only exists because body negativity is the norm."

有像Area這樣的品牌他們做的廣告從不做任何修圖。但是我們?nèi)匀槐徊磺袑?shí)際的期望所淹沒(méi)。我很愛(ài) Lizzo 所說(shuō)的這句話(huà)：“身體自愛(ài)之所以存在是因?yàn)樯眢w不自愛(ài)是社會(huì)規(guī)范?！?/p>

03:05

So how do we change the stigma aroundlooking different or not fitting into this narrow definition of beauty? Ibelieve it's by celebrating beauty in all different forms, bold andunapologetically. But many fashion designers continue to reinforce this narrowdefinition of beauty. From the way they are taught in school and into the realworld, they drape on mannequins that are only size four, or sketch on bodies thatare super stretched out and not anatomically proportioned. Different-sizebodies aren't taken into account during the design process. They're not thoughtof. So who are these designers designing for?

那么我們?cè)撛鯓硬拍芨淖円蜷L(zhǎng)相與眾不同或未能符合狹隘的美的定義所帶來(lái)的羞恥感？我相信這需要從贊美所有不同形式的美開(kāi)始，大膽而恣意。但是許多時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師還在強(qiáng)調(diào)這種狹隘的美的定義。從他們?cè)趯W(xué)校被教導(dǎo)開(kāi)始到他們進(jìn)入現(xiàn)實(shí)世界，他們只在4號(hào)身形的人體模型上做裁剪，或者只用那些超級(jí)修長(zhǎng)的身體做素描，且所用的比例并不符合解剖學(xué)。在設(shè)計(jì)的過(guò)程中，不同大小的身體并不被納入考慮范圍，甚至從未出現(xiàn)在設(shè)計(jì)師的腦海里。那么這些設(shè)計(jì)師在為誰(shuí)設(shè)計(jì)呢？

03:42

But the conversation around exclusivity infashion doesn't begin and end with size. It's about seeing people of alldifferent gender expressions, different ability levels, different ages,different races and ethnicities, celebrated for their own unique beauty. In myown work as a fashion designer, I started a brand called Chromat, and we'recommitted to empowering women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES, of allshapes and sizes, through perfectly fit garments for every body.

但是對(duì)于時(shí)尚的排他性的討論并不因肥瘦而起，更不會(huì)就此而終。這是有關(guān)于如何看待擁有不同性別表達(dá)的人，不同能力，不同年齡，不同種族的人，因其獨(dú)特的美而得到贊美。我自己作為一名設(shè)計(jì)師，創(chuàng)立了一個(gè)叫Chromat的品牌，我們致力于通過(guò)完美合身的服裝為不同身形，不同肥瘦的，女性，婦女及非二元的 #ChromatBABES 賦能。但是對(duì)于時(shí)尚的排他性的討論并不因肥瘦而起，更不會(huì)就此而終。這是有關(guān)于如何看待擁有不同性別表達(dá)的人，不同能力，不同年齡，不同種族的人，因其獨(dú)特的美而得到贊美。我自己作為一名設(shè)計(jì)師，創(chuàng)立了一個(gè)叫 Chromat 的品牌，我們致力于通過(guò)完美合身的服裝為不同身形，不同肥瘦的，女性，婦女及非二元的 #ChromatBABES 賦能。

04:10

Swimwear has become a huge focus for me,because of the power that this single garment can have over the way people feelabout themselves. We wanted to take our focus on celebrating all body types toa garment that's fraught with insecurity. On our runways, you see curves,cellulite and scars worn proudly. We're a runway show, yes, but we're also acelebration. I didn't start designing 10 years ago with the mission to changethe entire industry. But the models we cast at the time, who just happened tobe my friends who had begged to be in my shows, were so radical to some people,and, unfortunately, still are different or strange to some, that it became ahuge part of what we're known for.

我的一大關(guān)注點(diǎn)在泳裝，因?yàn)檫@個(gè)服裝單品擁有改變?nèi)藗儗?duì)自己看法的力量。我們想要把對(duì)于贊美所有身形的關(guān)注轉(zhuǎn)移到充滿(mǎn)不安全感的服裝上來(lái)。在我們的 T 臺(tái)上，你能看見(jiàn)豐滿(mǎn)的，肥胖的，帶有傷疤卻自信滿(mǎn)的模特。沒(méi)錯(cuò)，我們只是 T 臺(tái)走秀，但是同時(shí)也是一場(chǎng)慶典。10 年前我開(kāi)始從事設(shè)計(jì)的時(shí)候，并沒(méi)有懷著要改變整個(gè)行業(yè)的使命。但是當(dāng)時(shí)我們所挑選的模特恰巧是我的朋友，懇求著走我的秀，卻對(duì)一些人態(tài)度非常激進(jìn)，即使現(xiàn)在也依然對(duì)一些人很冷淡，漠不關(guān)心，我們之所以出名，主要就是因?yàn)檫@件事。

04:52

However, inclusivity means nothing if it'sonly surface level. Behind the scenes, from the photographer, to the castingdirector, to the interns, who is making the decisions behind the scenes is justas important. It's imperative to include diverse decision-makers in theprocess, and it's always better to collaborate with different communities,rather than trying to speak for them. And this is an important piece of thepuzzle that many young designers may not think about when they're firststarting their careers, but hiring a plus-size or a transgender photographer,or a woman of color as your casting director, or a black makeup artist -- hey,Fatima Thomas -- who intimately understands how important it is to be able towork with all skin tones: it's essential to creating a holistically inclusiveoutput, like this one.

然而，如果只是流于表面，所謂的包容性根本不存在。在鏡頭背后，從攝影師到選角導(dǎo)演，再到實(shí)習(xí)生，這些在鏡頭背后做決定的人同樣重要。在決策過(guò)程中讓多樣的決策者參與進(jìn)來(lái)至關(guān)重要，與不同的社團(tuán)協(xié)作總是好過(guò)嘗試著為它們代言。這是很多年輕的設(shè)計(jì)師在開(kāi)始他們的事業(yè)的時(shí)候從未想到過(guò)的很重要的一個(gè)謎題，但是聘用一個(gè)大碼模特或者一個(gè)跨性別攝影師，或者一個(gè)有色女性作為你的選角導(dǎo)演，又或者一個(gè)黑人化妝師—— 嗨，法蒂瑪·托馬斯 —— 這些人都切身體會(huì)到能和不同膚色的人共事是多么重要： 去創(chuàng)造這樣一個(gè)全方位包容的輸出是必不可少的。

05:44

As a fashion designers that do a lot ofswim, we wanted to rewrite the rules around having a bikini body. So we cast ateam of babe guards to enforce guidelines around inclusion and acceptance atthe pool. Instead of "no diving" and "no running," howabout "celebrate cellulite," "body policing prohibited,"and "intolerance not tolerated." And this was enforced by babe guardsMama Cax, Denise Bidot, Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme, all activists intheir own right.

作為已經(jīng)做過(guò)很多泳裝設(shè)計(jì)的設(shè)計(jì)師，我們想改寫(xiě)有關(guān)比基尼身材的規(guī)則。因此我們挑選了一組寶貝衛(wèi)士來(lái)強(qiáng)化泳池邊的有關(guān)包容性和接受度的準(zhǔn)則。不要“禁止跳水”，不要“禁止奔跑”，而是“贊美豐乳肥臀”，“禁止監(jiān)管身材”，“孰不可忍”如何？這場(chǎng)運(yùn)動(dòng)有寶貝衛(wèi)士瑪瑪·卡克斯，丹妮斯·比多，吉娜·羅切羅，艾瑞卡·哈特以及艾姆, 這些積極分子親自參與。

06:17

I've always felt it was important to show arange of different bodies in our runway shows and campaigns. But it actuallywasn't until recently that we were able to expand our size range in a majorway. We first launched our curve collection five years ago; we were so excited.But when it launched, it fell flat. Nobody was interested. None of ourdepartment stores stocked above a size large, and if they did, it was somewhereelse in the building entirely. In fact, one time our sales team said, "Youknow, it's so cool you have trans models and curve models on the runway -- Ilove what you're doing. But when the buyers come in to see the collection formarket, they want to be sold a dream, they want to see something that theyaspire to be." Implying that our models weren't that.

我一直都認(rèn)為在我們的 T 臺(tái)和廣告中展示一系列不同的身材是很重要的。但是實(shí)際上，直到最近，我們才能夠大范圍地?cái)U(kuò)大我們的碼數(shù)范圍。五年前，我們剛發(fā)行我們的豐滿(mǎn)系列；我們異常興奮。但是發(fā)行后，反響平平。沒(méi)有人對(duì)這個(gè)系列感興趣。我們的百貨門(mén)店里沒(méi)有一家進(jìn)大碼的貨，哪怕進(jìn)貨了，全部被擱置在大樓里的某個(gè)角落。事實(shí)上，一次我們的銷(xiāo)售團(tuán)隊(duì)說(shuō)道：“在你的T臺(tái)上有跨性別模特，豐滿(mǎn)的模特，真的挺酷的——我很欣賞你所做的一切。但是當(dāng)買(mǎi)家來(lái)看我們給他準(zhǔn)備了什么產(chǎn)品的時(shí)候，他們想要被推銷(xiāo)的是一個(gè)夢(mèng)想，他們想看到他們能變成怎樣?！边@暗示著我們的模特根本不是這樣的。

07:01

But I've realized it's so much moreimportant to open up this dream to more people. I want the consumer to knowthat it's not your body that needs to change -- it's the clothes.

但是我認(rèn)識(shí)到，更重要的是向更多的人展示這個(gè)夢(mèng)想。我想讓消費(fèi)者明白需要改變的并不是你的身體——而是服裝。

07:12

(Applause)

（掌聲）

07:18

There needs to be more fashion options atall sizes and in all retailers. So finally, in 2018, Nordstrom actually placedan order up to 3X. And this was a huge game changer for us to have a majorretailer invest in adding these units, so we could go to the factory -- now wego up to 4X, which is about a size 32. Having that investment helped us tochange and realign our entire design process. We now have different-sizedbodies to sketch and drape on in the studio. And if more fashion schools taughtthese skills, more designers would have the ability to design for all bodies.

我們需要更全的碼數(shù)，所有零售商提供更多的時(shí)尚選擇。終于，在 2018 年，諾德斯特龍下了個(gè)碼數(shù)達(dá)到 3X 的訂單。這簡(jiǎn)直一舉改變了我們的形勢(shì)，有了這個(gè)大型零售商在這些服裝上注資，我們可以去工廠(chǎng)——現(xiàn)在我們把碼數(shù)提升到 4X，也就是 32 碼。這筆投資幫助我們改變并重新調(diào)整了我們整個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)流程。我們現(xiàn)在在工作室有了不同大小的人體模型來(lái)畫(huà)素描和做裁剪。如果有更多的時(shí)尚學(xué)院來(lái)教授這些技巧的話(huà)，會(huì)有更多的設(shè)計(jì)師能為所有的身形做設(shè)計(jì)。

07:56

(Applause)

（掌聲）

08:02

So as fashion designers, it's our job toutilize our platform to explode this narrow and restrictive definition ofbeauty. My goal is that one day, teenagers growing up don't feel the samepressure that I did to conform. And I hope that our work contributes to thefashion industry's opening up to celebrate many different identities.

作為時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師，利用我們的平臺(tái)去消滅這種狹隘的，限制多多的美的定義是我們的職責(zé)。我的目標(biāo)是終有一天，青少年在成長(zhǎng)過(guò)程中不再有我當(dāng)年的壓力。同時(shí)我希望我們的努力能使得時(shí)尚界敞開(kāi)心胸，去接受各種不同的人。

08:23

Thank you.

謝謝大家。

08:24

(Applause and cheers)

（掌聲與喝彩）