Down the length of Italy like the back of a sea monster is a ridge of mountains called the Apennines. To get from one side of Italy to the other side you have to go over, under, or through these Apennine Mountains, and trains do all three; over, under, through, winding in and out of one tunnel after another. There are forty-five tunnels in going just from Venice to a city across the Apennines called Florence.
Florence is a girl's name meaning "flowering," but Florence is also the name of this city. As the train comes into Florence it curves around the city and you see above the housetops, near the center of the city, a large dome that looks like the hub of a wheel about which the train is turning. Next to the dome is a big, square tower. Both the tower and the dome were built before Columbus was born. The dome looks like the dome of St. Paul's in London, but, as a matter of fact, this dome is not like St. Paul's. The dome of St. Paul's is like it, and so is the dome of the Capitol in Washington like it, and so are all the other domes of that kind in the World like it, for this dome in Florence was the first one of that kind ever built and all others are copies.
Little domes and flat domes had been built before, but when the people of Florence were building a cathedral they wanted a different kind of dome on it, a dome that would be bigger and better than any other dome i. t. w. W. They wanted a dome so big that no one knew how to build it. Now a dome is built out of pieces of stone, and the stones have to cover a space beneath without falling, just like a bridge or an arch. No cement is strong enough to stick stones together so that they will not fall when placed across an open space, but if the stones can be held up by some wooden framework until every stone is in place, the wooden framework underneath can then be taken away and the stones will not fall, for all the stones push downward at the same time, and as all push downward together they get wedged in so tight that none can fall through. It is like a jam of people all trying at once to get through a door: they get so wedged in that none can go through.
But the dome on the Cathedral of Florence was to be so big no one knew how to hold it up while it was being built. It would have taken a whole forest of trees to build a big enough framework underneath. Some one said, "Let's pile up a mountain of dirt and put pennies all through the dirt, then build the dome on top of this mountain. After the dome has been built people will cart away the dirt in order to get the money out of the dirt and that will leave the dome standing alone." But this very foolish scheme was never tried.
At last two artists who were rivals said they knew a way to build the dome, but neither one would tell how he would do it. One artist was named Brunelleschi. As Brunelleschi is such a long name, I'm going to call him Mr. B. for short. The other artist was named Ghiberti, and I shall call him Mr. G. Mr. B. got the job and Mr. G. was made his helper. Mr. G. didn't like to be only a helper, so he went about saying that Mr. B. did not really know how to build the dome at all, and would never finish it.
Mr. B. and his men went on with the work for some time, until the sides of the dome reached the place where the stones had to be built over the center to cover the vast space beneath. This was the hard part, for the sides of the dome had to meet in the middle with nothing underneath to hold them up. Mr. G. kept on with his talking against Mr. B. , and even made fun of him, until Mr. B. , tired of being nagged in this way, made believe he was sick and stopped work. Time went on and Mr. B. staid home-still sick-and the dome stood unfinished. Mr. G. said, "Oh, Mr. B. isn't really sick; he is only making believe he is sick-as a school-boy sometimes does-because he doesn't know how to go on." So the people of Florence went to Mr. B. 's house and begged him to go on with the dome.
"I'm sick," said Mr. B. "Mr. G. knows so much about building a dome, let him go on with it."
So the people went back to Mr. G. and told him to go ahead. Then Ghiberti tried, but he was able to go only a little way and couldn't go any farther.
So then the people went back to Brunelleschi again.
"If you'll make that Ghiberti keep still and not say another word," said Mr. B. , "I will go on as I started," and he did, finishing the first and one of the most beautiful domes of its kind i. t. w. W. , and no one to this day knows exactly how he did it.
Although Ghiberti was such a poor "sport," he was, however, a great sculptor. Right across the street from the cathedral with the dome which Brunelleschi built is a low, six-sided building called a baptistery, because they baptized children there. The doors of this baptistery are made of bronze, and on these doors Ghiberti made bronze figures and scenes of some of the Bible stories. One of these pictures in bronze shows Abraham about to sacrifice his son on the altar as he was told to do by God.
"They are fit to be the gates to Paradise!" said another great Florentine artist when he saw these doors. The artist who said this was named Michelangelo, and he lived in Italy at the same time as Columbus. Columbus was never at home; he was away from Italy almost all his life, discovering new countries. But Michelangelo never left Italy; he stayed at home. He spent his whole life there making beautiful drawings, paintings, sculptures, and buildings, for an artist in those days did every kind of artistic work, from making necklaces to churches, as well as painting and sculpture.
One day Michelangelo found a block of marble which some one had thrown away because it had a crack in it. Michelangelo said that he saw in this block of marble the figure of young David, so he set to work with his chisel and cut the figure of the young shepherd boy out of the marble. In Florence there are two huge copies of this statue several times bigger than a man, and in thousands of other places in the World there are small copies in plaster, and you may have one of these copies in your own home.
Many of these beautiful works of art are kept in buildings that used to be palaces. The palaces in Florence look more like prisons than palaces.
They were built that way, not to keep people in, but to keep people out. In olden times rich families lived in these palaces, and they were not good neighbors, for one family frequently quarreled or fought with another, so the palaces had to be strong as forts.
There are no water streets in Florence like those in Venice, but through Florence flows a river called the Arno, and across it are several bridges. On one of these bridges, called the Ponte Vecchio, which means the Old Bridge, are shops as on the Rialto in Venice. Most of the shops sell ornaments and souvenirs made out of silver, mosaic, leather, and tortoiseshell, for this is the kind of art work that present-day Florentines make to sell to the thousands of travelers that visit the city.
Towers are built to stand erect-straight up and down-as boys and girls are. But not far from Florence is a city named Pisa, which has a very peculiar tower that leans to one side. It is called the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The tower was built to stand straight, but the foundation has sunk on one side, so that the tower slants over as if it were going to fall. It has stood that way for hundreds of years, but is gradually leaning more and more, and if it cannot be stopped, some day it will fall.
You remember I told you that marble was made from the bones of sea animals; but all marble is not alike-some is so coarse you can even see the bones in the stone. But near Pisa are stone mines called quarries, from which are cut blocks of stone of a very fine and smooth kind of marble called from the name of the place, Carrara. Ever since the time of Christ men have been cutting out blocks of marble from these quarries, and people send all the way to Carrara from this country and other countries when they want especially fine marble for a building or a mantel or a piece of sculpture.
有一條山脈的山脊從北向南縱貫整個意大利,就像海怪的脊背,這條山脈就是亞平寧山脈。從意大利的一邊橫穿到另一邊,你就得從這條亞平寧山脈上面翻過去,或者從底下鉆過去,或者從中間穿過去,而這三者火車都可以做到;在山脈上面、底下、中間,火車從一個又一個隧道鉆進去又鉆出來,蜿蜒而行。從威尼斯穿過亞平寧山脈到一個叫做佛羅倫薩的城市,就要經(jīng)過45個隧道。
"佛羅倫薩"是一個女孩的名字,意思是"鮮花盛開",但佛羅倫薩也是這個城市的名字。火車駛進佛羅倫薩,繞著城市轉彎,這時你從火車向外眺望,在城市一大片屋頂之上,在靠近市中心的地方,能看到一個巨大的圓頂,看起來就像個輪轂,火車正繞著這個輪轂在轉。圓頂旁邊是一個高大的方形塔樓。塔樓和圓屋頂都是在哥倫布出生之前建造的。圓頂看上去像倫敦圣保羅大教堂的圓頂,但實際上我們只能反過來說圣保羅大教堂的圓頂像它,華盛頓的國會大廈也像它,世界上所有這類圓頂都像它,因為佛羅倫薩的這個圓頂是最先建造的,所有其他的這類圓頂都是仿照它建造的。
人們以前建造的都是小的圓頂和平的圓頂,但后來佛羅倫薩人在建造一個大教堂時,他們想在上面建一個與眾不同的圓頂,要比世界上其他任何一個圓頂都更大更好。他們想造這么大一個圓頂,以至于沒有人知道該怎么建?,F(xiàn)在圓頂都是用一塊一塊的石頭建成的,石頭蓋住下方的空間而且不會落下來,就像橋梁或拱門一樣。任何水泥都沒有那么強的力量能把石頭粘在一起,放在一個空間上,而不落下去,但是如果石頭能先被某種木質結構支撐著,直到每一塊石頭都各就各位,然后下面的木質結構就可以拿走,石頭也不會落下來,因為所有的石頭都同時往下擠,這時所有石頭向下的合力讓石頭緊緊擠壓在一起,變得嚴絲合縫,沒有一塊石頭會從中掉下來。就像一大群人都要同時過一個門:他們就擠在一起了,誰也動不了,結果一個人也過不去。
但是佛羅倫薩大教堂的圓頂真是太大了,當時沒有人知道在建造的時候該如何把它撐起來。要砍掉整片森林的樹木才能在下面造一個足夠大的木結構。有人說:"我們用土來堆座山吧,在土里放滿硬幣,然后就在這個土山上建起圓頂。圓頂建好后人們?yōu)榱说玫酵晾锩娴腻X會把土用車運走,這樣就只剩下圓頂立在那里了。"但是從來沒有人嘗試過這個愚蠢的計劃。
最后有兩個互相為對手的藝術家都說自己知道該怎樣建造這個圓頂,但哪一個都不愿說該怎么建。一個藝術家叫布魯內萊斯基。布魯內萊斯基這個名字實在太長了,我就簡稱他"布先生"。另一個藝術家叫吉貝爾蒂,我就叫他"吉先生"。布先生接到了這個任務,而吉先生被任命為布先生的助手。吉先生當然不樂意自己僅僅充當助手,于是他開始對人說布先生根本不知道怎么建圓頂,他永遠都建不成圓頂。
布先生帶著自己的工人干了一段時間,直到圓頂?shù)乃闹芏家呀ê?,只等著用石頭把中間這個巨大的空間蓋住。這是很難的部分,因為圓頂?shù)乃闹芤谥虚g合攏在一起而下面卻沒有任何東西把它托起來。吉先生還在說布先生的壞話,甚至還取笑他,直到布先生厭煩了他這樣不斷的指責,就裝病,停工了。時間一天天過去了,布先生還待在家里--仍然病著--圓頂就那樣一直沒有完工。吉先生說:"哦,布先生根本沒有?。凰窃谘b病--就像上學的孩子有時會裝病一樣--因為他不知道該怎么繼續(xù)下去了。"于是佛羅倫薩人到布先生家去請求他繼續(xù)建造圓頂。
"我病了,"布先生說,"吉先生很擅長建造圓頂,讓他繼續(xù)建下去吧。"
于是人們回到吉先生那里讓他去干。吉貝爾蒂就開始嘗試,但他只讓工程進展了一點點就再也干不下去了。
于是人們又回到布魯內萊斯基那里,去懇求他。
"如果你們能讓那個吉貝爾蒂保持安靜,不再嘮叨,"布先生說,"那我就會像當初那樣繼續(xù)干下去。"他說到做到,終于完成了世界上第一個圓頂,也是世界上同類圓頂中最漂亮的,迄今為止沒有人知道他到底是怎樣做到的。
盡管在這次"比賽"中吉貝爾蒂顯得心胸狹隘,沒有氣度,但他卻是個了不起的雕刻家。就在布魯內萊斯基建造的圓頂?shù)拇蠼烫玫慕謱γ妫幸蛔桶牧娼ㄖ?,叫個洗禮堂,因為人們在這里給孩子行洗禮。這個洗禮堂的門是用青銅做的,在這些門上吉貝爾蒂雕刻了一些青銅人像和《圣經(jīng)》故事中的一些場景。在其中一幅青銅畫里,亞伯拉罕按照上帝的旨意正準備把自己的兒子供放到祭壇上。
"它們真的很適合做天堂的大門!"佛羅倫薩另一位藝術家看到這些門時說。說這話的藝術家叫做米開朗基羅,他和哥倫布是同一時代的意大利人。哥倫布從來都不在家;他幾乎一生都不在意大利,而在外面發(fā)現(xiàn)新國家。但米開朗基羅從來沒有離開過意大利;他始終待在家里。他一輩子的時間都用來創(chuàng)作美麗的素描、油畫、雕像和建筑,因為那個時代的藝術家不但繪畫雕刻,還做各類藝術品:小到一根項鏈,大到一座教堂。
一天米開朗基羅看見了一塊大理石,那是別人丟棄的,因為上面有道裂縫。米開朗基羅說他在這塊大理石里看到了年輕大衛(wèi)的人影,于是他拿起鑿子勁頭十足地動起手來,把這塊大理石雕刻成那個年輕牧羊人的人像。在佛羅倫薩有兩座巨大的大衛(wèi)雕像的仿制品,比真人大好幾倍,在世界上許許多多地方都有小型的大衛(wèi)石膏雕像仿制品,你家里也許就有這樣一個仿制品。
這些美麗的藝術品,其中很多都存放在原本是宮殿的建筑物里。佛羅倫薩的宮殿看起來更像是監(jiān)獄。之所以建成那樣,不是為了留住人,而是為了不讓人進來。在以往,富裕的家族都住在這些宮殿里,他們不能和睦相處,經(jīng)?;ハ酄幊澈痛蚨?,所以宮殿必須建得像堡壘一樣堅固。
佛羅倫薩沒有威尼斯那樣的水道,但有一條河流經(jīng)佛羅倫薩,叫做阿爾諾河,河上有幾座橋。其中一座橋叫做"Ponte Vecchio",意思就是"老橋",橋上有很多商店,就像威尼斯的里阿爾托橋一樣。大部分商店里出售用銀、馬賽克、皮革和龜甲做成的裝飾品和紀念品。因為這就是當今的佛羅倫薩人做的藝術品,只為了賺成千上萬游客的鈔票。
塔建成后都是豎立的--從上到下都是垂直的--就像男孩子、女孩子挺直的身體。但離佛羅倫薩不遠有個叫比薩的城市,那里有一座很奇特的塔,它是朝一邊傾斜的。它叫比薩斜塔。這個塔建成時也是豎立的,但是塔的基座往一側沉陷,于是塔就往一邊傾斜,好像要倒下來。幾百年來它就那樣矗立在那了,但一直在慢慢地向下傾斜,如果不能阻止,有一天它將會倒下。
你記得我介紹過大理石是由海洋動物的骨頭變來的;但不是所有的大理石都是一樣的--有的很粗糙,你甚至可以看到里面的骨頭。但在比薩附近有一些石礦,叫做露天礦場,從那里開采出一塊塊質地細密光滑的大理石,這種大理石是以產(chǎn)地的名字而命名的,叫卡拉拉。從基督時代起人們就從這里的露天礦場開采大理石,當意大利各地和世界各國的人們需要優(yōu)質的大理石用于樓房或壁爐飾面或一件雕刻作品,他們就會派人前來采購。
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