I was once on a train leaving Baltimore when a man asked me where I was going. I told him I was going to Baltimore. He looked at me as if I must have made a mistake and exclaimed, “You are on the wrong train; this train is leaving Baltimore.”
“I know that,” I replied, “but I’m going to Baltimore the long way round, round the World to Baltimore. I’m going west to get east.”
On the other side of the World from us are some islands called “The Indies.” People had always gone to the Indies, far, far away, by traveling toward the east. Columbus thought he could go in just the opposite direction—toward the west—and reach the Indies that way. People said it was foolish to go west to get east, but Columbus believed the World was round, and if it were round he knew he could get to these islands by going west just as well as by going east. So he sailed, and he sailed, and he sailed, always toward the setting sun, and at last he did come to some islands. He thought these islands were the Indies, so he named them the “West Indies.” As a matter of fact, we know, but he didn’t know, that he hadn’t gone half far enough to reach the Indies. He didn’t know that even if he had gone on farther, Central America would have been in the way, anyway.
Living on these islands were men with red skins, painted faces, and feathers in their hair, and Columbus called them Indians. Other people called these Indians “Caribs,” which means “brave,” because they were brave, and the blue sea which surrounded these islands they called the Caribbean Sea—the sea of the Caribs.
Columbus was looking for a new way and he found it, but after Columbus other men came along looking for gold and silver and they found that. Some they found in Mexico and some they found in South America, and some they took away from the Indians who had already found it. They robbed them, that’s all. This gold and silver—treasure—found and stolen, they loaded on ships and started back to Spain.
But many of those ships bearing treasure never reached Spain. Pirates—sea robbers—lay in wait to rob the land robbers. It was better sport to rob robbers than to rob the poor Indians. These pirates were bold and bad and cold and cruel. They wore blood-red sashes round their waists, blood-red handkerchiefs round their necks, and blood-red handkerchiefs round their heads. They hung huge rings in their ears and huge bracelets on their arms, and they were “armed to the teeth”—whatever that means. They hid behind these little islands in the Caribbean Sea, and when they saw a treasure ship coming from afar they hoisted a black flag to their ship’s mast, a flag with a skull and two bones crossed on it, and sailed forth and captured the ship, its treasures, and its crew. They made the crew slaves, or if the pirates didn’t want any more slaves, they made their captives “walk the plank”—that is, walk blindfolded out on a plank set over the ship’s edge. They would reach the end and suddenly step off into the sea and be drowned. Then the pirate would load the treasure he had captured into a huge iron-bound chest, sail back to his little island, and bury the treasure chest in a hole in the sand. He would mark the spot on a map with an X so that he might find it when he wanted it, and so that no one else could find it.
These pirates are gone long years ago, and the ships that sail the blue Caribbean have now no fear of pirates any more, and few of these ships carry anything that pirates would want. But the sea is so blue and the weather so warm and the islands so lovely that many people make voyages to the Pirate Seas just for pleasure. I did once myself.
I left New York when it was snowing and in two days I was on an island called Bermuda, where it was warm and sunny. Easter lilies were growing in the fields, and new potatoes and onions. Farmers were raising them to send to shivering New York so that Americans might have warm-weather flowers and warm-weather vegetables long before warm weather itself came.
Another two days’ sailing south and I was on another island called Nassau, the capital of a group of islands called the Bahamas. In Nassau sponges are gathered from the bottom of the sea and sent back to U. S. for US to USe. Would you believe that the sponges you use were once alive? They were once like jelly with the sponge inside. Men dive down into the sea and tear the live sponges off the rocks where they grow. Then they wash off the jelly-like part and what is left is the sponge.
Another one of the Bahama Islands is the little island on which Columbus first landed—the most famous little island i. t. w. W. A monument marks the spot where he stepped out of his little boat after his long voyage across the ocean, kneeled down in the sand, and thanked God for directing him safely to the New World. He called the island after his Saviour, “Holy Saviour,” which in Spanish is San Salvador.
There are three large islands of the West Indies—tit-tat-to, three in a row. There is also another island a little smaller, and many, many very small islands besides in the Caribbean Sea.
The largest island of all the West Indies—the first one of the tit-tat-to, three in a row islands—is Cuba. Columbus found the Indians in Cuba carrying burning torches in their mouths. They breathed in the smoke and blew it out again in a most strange and amazing fashion, as if they were dragons. It seemed an extraordinary thing for people to do—to breathe in smoke of a burning weed, for that was what it was; yet they seemed to enjoy it. No one across the water had ever seen such a sight before—people breathing fire. But now people all over the World copy the red Indians of Cuba. The weed was called tobacco. Tobacco is now grown in many parts of the World, but the finest tobacco i. t. w. W. for cigars still grows in Cuba, and Havana, the capital of Cuba, ships “Havana” cigars everywhere.
People from Spain went to live in Cuba and Cuba belonged to Spain until not so many years ago, but now Cuba belongs to itself.
Almost all vegetables and fruits in the World have sugar in their juice; they are sweet. Some have a great deal, some have very little. But two vegetables have such sweet juice that they are raised for the sugar that can be made out of their juice. These vegetables are the beet and sugar-cane. You know what a beet looks like. Sugarcane looks something like stalks of corn. Men press the juice out of the cane and boil it to make sugar. In Cuba they grow more sugar-cane than any other place i. t. w. W.
The Island of Haiti—the tat of the tit-tat-to islands—although it is not large, has two little countries on it. Both these countries are republics like the United States, with presidents and senators and representatives chosen by the people, but their presidents are colored and their senators and representatives are also colored. That may seem strange until I tell you that the people on the island are colored too.
When Columbus died he was buried on this island of Haiti. Many years after, men dug up what they thought were Columbus’s bones and sent them back to Spain, where they are kept in a great cathedral. But many people say they were not Columbus’s bones at all that they took back, but some one else’s, and that Columbus’s body still lies in Haiti.
Puerto Rico, the third of the tit-tat-to islands of the West Indies, belongs to the United States. In Puerto Rico they raise tobacco too, but there seems to be some difference in the land, for they can’t seem to raise quite as good tobacco as the people in Cuba do.
Jamaica is a small island south of the tit-tat-to islands. It belongs to England. In Jamaica they grow many of the bananas that we eat. They are picked when they are still green, but by the time they have been shipped to the United States and are put in the fruit shops on sale they are yellow and ripe—sometimes. If you eat them before they are ripe, you may need a little Jamaica ginger, which is good for “tummy aches”—that comes from Jamaica too.
Tobacco and sugar, sponges and early vegetables, bananas and lilies!—pirates would have turned up their noses in disgust if they had captured a ship laden with such a cargo!
我有一次坐火車正要離開巴爾的摩,這時一個男子問我到哪去。我告訴他我要去巴爾的摩。他看著我,現(xiàn)出的神情就好像我弄錯了,他大聲說:“你坐錯車了;這輛火車是從巴爾的摩開出的。”
“我知道,”我回答說,“但是我要繞個大圈子到巴爾的摩,繞過整個世界到巴爾的摩去。我要向西走,到東方去。”
在與我們相對的世界的另一面,和我們相對的地方,有一些島嶼叫做“印度群島”。人們到遙遠(yuǎn)的印度群島去總是向東走。哥倫布認(rèn)為他可以往正相反的方向走——向西走——到達(dá)印度群島。人們說到東方去卻向西走是很愚蠢的,但哥倫布認(rèn)為世界是圓的,而世界如果是圓的,他知道他可以向西走,到這些島嶼去,正如可以向東走去一樣。于是他揚帆起航,日日夜夜不停地在海上航行,一直朝著落日的方向,最后他真的到達(dá)了一些島嶼。他以為這些島嶼就是印度群島,于是他把它們叫做“西印度群島”。事實上,我們知道到印度群島的路程他還沒走到一半,但他自己卻不知道。他不知道即使他再走下去,至少中美洲還會擋住他的路。
住在這些島上的人有著紅色的皮膚,臉上涂著油彩,頭發(fā)上插著羽毛,哥倫布把他們叫做“印第安人”。其他人把這些印第安人叫做“加勒比人”,意思是“勇敢的人”,因為他們很勇敢,而環(huán)繞著這些島嶼的藍(lán)色海洋,他們稱之為“加勒比海”——加勒比人的海洋。
哥倫布在找一條新的路線,他確實找到了,但是在哥倫布之后其他人跟著來,是尋找金子和銀子的,他們也找到了。有些是在墨西哥找到的,有些是在南美洲找到的,還有些是他們從先找到金銀的印第安人手里奪來的。他們搶劫了印第安人,就是這么一回事。這些金子和銀子——財寶——找到的和竊取的,他們都裝在船上,運回西班牙。
但是很多裝滿金銀財寶的輪船永遠(yuǎn)沒有到達(dá)西班牙。海盜——海上的強盜——埋伏以待,搶劫那些陸地上的強盜。和搶劫貧窮的印第安人相比,搶劫強盜是一種更有刺激性的游戲。這些海盜膽大心狠,冷酷兇殘。他們腰上系著血紅的腰帶,脖子上圍著血紅的圍巾,頭上裹著血紅的頭巾。他們耳朵上戴著巨大的耳環(huán),胳膊上戴著巨大的手鐲,他們“武裝到牙齒”——無論這是什么意思。他們隱藏在加勒比海這些小島的后面,當(dāng)看到一艘載著財寶的船從遠(yuǎn)處駛來時,他們就在桅桿上升起一面黑色的旗子,旗上畫有一個骷髏頭和兩根交叉的骨頭,然后他們就駛上前去,劫獲船只、連同船上的財寶和船員。他們讓船員成為奴隸,或者如果海盜不再需要奴隸了,他們就讓俘虜去“走跳板”——也就是,蒙住他們的眼睛,強迫他們在突出船舷外的跳板上行走。他們走到盡頭,就會突然跌落到海里溺水身亡。然后海盜會把俘獲的金銀財寶裝到一個巨大的鐵皮包的箱子里,駛回他們的小島,把財寶箱埋入沙子里的一個洞里。海盜會在地圖上用一個X標(biāo)出這個地點,以便日后需要的時候可以查找,別人也發(fā)現(xiàn)不了。
這些海盜已經(jīng)消失很多年了,在加勒比海上航行的輪船現(xiàn)在再也不用害怕海盜了,而且也沒有什么船裝載著海盜們想要的東西。但是這里海水碧藍(lán),氣候溫暖,島上風(fēng)景優(yōu)美,因此很多人乘船來到這海盜曾經(jīng)出沒的海洋游玩。我自己也去過一次。
我在大雪紛飛的時候離開了紐約,兩天后到了一個叫百慕大的島上,那里天氣溫暖,陽光明媚。那里的田野里長著麝香百合、時鮮馬鈴薯和洋蔥。農(nóng)民們種植這些,是要把它們運到寒氣逼人的紐約去,這樣在寒冷的季節(jié),美國人就能欣賞到溫暖季節(jié)的鮮花,吃到溫暖季節(jié)的蔬菜。
乘船往南又航行兩天我就到了另一個叫做拿騷的島嶼,它是巴哈馬群島的首都。當(dāng)?shù)厝藦暮5撞墒蘸>d,然后運到美國供我們使用。你能相信你使用的海綿曾經(jīng)是活的嗎?它們曾經(jīng)就像是被果凍包裹著。人們潛到海底從巖石上扯下生長在上面的海綿。然后他們把果凍樣的那一部分洗掉,剩下的就是海綿了。
巴哈馬群島還有一個小島,是哥倫布最初登陸的小島——世界上最著名的小島。這里有一個紀(jì)念碑標(biāo)示出了哥倫布下船的地點,哥倫布經(jīng)過漫長的海上航行之后終于看到這個小島,下船后他跪在沙灘上,感謝上帝指引他安全抵達(dá)了新大陸。他以救世主的名字把小島命名為“神圣的救世主”,西班牙語中就是“圣薩爾瓦多”。
西印度群島有三個大島——像畫“連城”游戲一樣,三個島連成一排。加勒比海還有一個小一點的島和很多很多非常小的島嶼。
西印度群島最大的島——畫“連城”游戲中三個一排的第一個島——是古巴島。哥倫布發(fā)現(xiàn)古巴島上的印第安人嘴里叼著燃燒的小火把。他們以一種極為奇怪而又驚人的方式把煙吸進(jìn)去然后又呼出來,好像是噴煙吐火的龍一樣。人把野草燃燒冒出的煙吸進(jìn)去,似乎在做一件離奇的事,因為那真就是野草;然而他們看起來卻是很享受的樣子。從大洋對岸來的人以前從來沒有見過這種奇觀——人吸火。但是現(xiàn)在全世界都有人在仿效古巴紅皮膚的印第安人。這種野草叫做煙草?,F(xiàn)在世界上很多地方都種植煙草,但是全世界做雪茄用的最優(yōu)質(zhì)的煙草還是產(chǎn)自古巴,古巴的首都哈瓦那把“哈瓦那”牌雪茄運送到世界各地。
來自西班牙的人直到幾年前才在古巴定居下來。古巴屬于西班牙,但是現(xiàn)在古巴是一個獨立的國家。
世界上幾乎所有的植物和水果的汁液里都含糖,是甜的。有些含有大量的糖分,有些則含量很少。但是有兩種植物的汁液含糖量極高,人們種植它們就是為了提取它們汁液中的糖。這兩種植物是甜菜和甘蔗。你一定知道甜菜是什么樣子的。甘蔗看起來有點像玉米稈。人們榨出甘蔗汁,把它熬成糖。古巴種植的甘蔗比世界上其他任何地方都要多。
海地島——排在第二的島——盡管不大,上面卻有兩個國家。這兩個國家都是像美國那樣的共和政體,總統(tǒng)、參議員和眾議員都由人民選舉產(chǎn)生,但是他們的總統(tǒng)都是有色人種,他們的參議員和眾議員也是有色人種。你可能覺得這似乎有點奇怪,那么我告訴你,島上的居民全是有色人種,你還覺得奇怪嗎?
哥倫布死后就埋在這個海地島上。很多年以后,人們挖出了一副骸骨,認(rèn)為那是哥倫布的遺骨,將其運回了西班牙,存放在一個大教堂里。但是很多人說他們運回的根本就不是哥倫布的遺骨,而是別人的,他們說哥倫布的遺體還在海地。
波多黎各島,是西印度群島排在第三的島,屬于美國。波多黎各人也種植煙草,但似乎土壤成分有些不同,因為他們好像種不出像古巴人種的那么好的煙草。
牙買加是三大島南面的一個小島。它屬于英國。在牙買加,人們種植很多我們吃的香蕉。香蕉剛摘下來時是綠色的,但是被運到美國擺到水果店里出售的時候就變黃變熟了——并不總是這樣。如果你吃了不成熟的香蕉,可能需要一點牙買加生姜,這種姜對治療“肚子痛”很有效——也是產(chǎn)自牙買加的。
煙草和糖,海綿和時鮮蔬菜,香蕉和百合花!——海盜們?nèi)绻賷Z了一艘裝載著這些貨物的輪船肯定會對此不屑一顧,氣不打一處來。
?